Beginner R/C questions...
06-16-2002, 10:10 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Beginner R/C questions...
Hi. I am a beginner in the R/C field, just bought my first car about 1 week ago. I will list the setup below, then post my question.
Tamiya Chevy S-10 pickup kit (plus a Ford F150 body)
Novak Rooster Reversible ESC
AComs Technisport Hayabusa 2CH AM Radio/Receiver
AComs Servo
Stock 540 Motor
DuraTrax IntelliPeak Charger
1 x Sanyo 3000mAh NiMH battery pack
2 x Nuclear Power 2100mAh NiCD battery packs
OK, here are my questions
#1. Speed Control. While it works great, I do notice that it is very jerky in reverse, especially the farther away the car is. If i drive forward its fine, but reverse is jerky and unresponsive. If I drive closer, its better. I have soldered the 3 capacitors to the motor as suggested in the ESC manual. Any ideas?
#2. Batteries. On the NiMH pack, my stupid charger detects the peak too early (5min or so into the charge) and turns off fast charge. If I push the button again, it keeps charging and sometimes doesnt turn off fast charge even after an hour @ 3amps of charging. It doesn't happen with the cheap NiCD's, they always charge the same amount of time, I timed it, and the charge lasts. I was told by the hobby shop that NiMH take a while to break in, but I've charged it probably 10 times already, and still the same happens. Is it a defective pack, or is the charger crap?
I apologize if I didn't post this in the right forum, but this is my first visit to this board and I felt quite overwhelmed by the amount of forums and all.
If anyone has any insight to any of the problems I listed above, please let me know, I appreciate it very much.
Tamiya Chevy S-10 pickup kit (plus a Ford F150 body)
Novak Rooster Reversible ESC
AComs Technisport Hayabusa 2CH AM Radio/Receiver
AComs Servo
Stock 540 Motor
DuraTrax IntelliPeak Charger
1 x Sanyo 3000mAh NiMH battery pack
2 x Nuclear Power 2100mAh NiCD battery packs
OK, here are my questions
#1. Speed Control. While it works great, I do notice that it is very jerky in reverse, especially the farther away the car is. If i drive forward its fine, but reverse is jerky and unresponsive. If I drive closer, its better. I have soldered the 3 capacitors to the motor as suggested in the ESC manual. Any ideas?
#2. Batteries. On the NiMH pack, my stupid charger detects the peak too early (5min or so into the charge) and turns off fast charge. If I push the button again, it keeps charging and sometimes doesnt turn off fast charge even after an hour @ 3amps of charging. It doesn't happen with the cheap NiCD's, they always charge the same amount of time, I timed it, and the charge lasts. I was told by the hobby shop that NiMH take a while to break in, but I've charged it probably 10 times already, and still the same happens. Is it a defective pack, or is the charger crap?
I apologize if I didn't post this in the right forum, but this is my first visit to this board and I felt quite overwhelmed by the amount of forums and all.
If anyone has any insight to any of the problems I listed above, please let me know, I appreciate it very much.
06-18-2002, 11:45 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Saxonburg,
PA
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Beginner R/C questions...
HiVolt . . .
It has been a lot of years since I use to race electric 1/10th scale, but I will try to answer your question(s).
1) The ESC should work fine, but if you are going to be competing, you might not want to have reverse. Most of these cars do not work real well in reverse and you may not have something setup just right for the reverse that is causing it to be jerky. When I raced, I did away with reverse and had to learn to drive so that I didn't get myself in a position where I needed reverse.
2) I only have experience with NiCd batteries and I use to race modified 4-wd. I used a HOT modified motor with just cheapie 6-cell 1400mah battery packs that I use to pulse peak just before each race and they worked fine for me. Our heats were 4 minutes long and while others had problems squeezing 4 minutes out of their packs, mine had enough to play around with after the race.
If the NiMh's acting up, you might want to have the pack(s) checked to make sure that there is not a dead cell in the pack. I would suspect something wrong with the packs since the charger charges the NiCd's okay.
Like I said, its been a lot of years and things have changed. Maybe you should take your questions to your LHS or talk to other drivers for their input.
Good Luck,
It has been a lot of years since I use to race electric 1/10th scale, but I will try to answer your question(s).
1) The ESC should work fine, but if you are going to be competing, you might not want to have reverse. Most of these cars do not work real well in reverse and you may not have something setup just right for the reverse that is causing it to be jerky. When I raced, I did away with reverse and had to learn to drive so that I didn't get myself in a position where I needed reverse.
2) I only have experience with NiCd batteries and I use to race modified 4-wd. I used a HOT modified motor with just cheapie 6-cell 1400mah battery packs that I use to pulse peak just before each race and they worked fine for me. Our heats were 4 minutes long and while others had problems squeezing 4 minutes out of their packs, mine had enough to play around with after the race.
If the NiMh's acting up, you might want to have the pack(s) checked to make sure that there is not a dead cell in the pack. I would suspect something wrong with the packs since the charger charges the NiCd's okay.
Like I said, its been a lot of years and things have changed. Maybe you should take your questions to your LHS or talk to other drivers for their input.
Good Luck,
