Felix21685

My Feedback: (1)

hey guys

my Thunder tiger 46 BB Pro is getting here tom.
and i was wondering for exact directions of tuning it..and breaking it in..

please explain which way to twist the needle from which way how many turns etc..
im at 6500 feet above see level...os a 3 glow plug..11x5 prop..15% fuel.
Felix

DTB

My Feedback: (15)

Most needle valves operate this way. Turning counter clockwise makes the engine richer (more fuel), clockwise makes the engine leaner (less fuel).

Start by turning the needle valve clockwise in until it is completely closed, then turn the needle 2.5-3.0 turns counter clockwise out (make sure they are complete turns). Take the glow plug out and drop about 8 drops of after run oil in it to lub for the first time cracking. Place glow plug and use starter or chicken stick. If the motor is a ringed engine, run the engine as rich as you can get it. If it is a ABC (non ringed) engine, turn the needle valve clockwise until the engine sounds like a 2 stroke and not a 4 stroke. Run the engine wide open like that for the first tank (#1 pinch). Let the engine rest until it is cool to touch, refuel and start. 2nd tank, run it wide open again, but this time run the engine in a #1 pinch briefly, then adjust the needle valve until it gets to a #2 pinch, then back to a #1, then #2, etc until the tank is empty. This allows the engine to wash away any metal flakes while breaking in when you are in the number one pich. The pinch test is listed below. Do this for a couple of tanks until you can hold a #3 pinch constantly. This will take roughly 1/2-1 gallon to be completely broken in. 4-5 tanks on the ground, then you should be able to break the engine in more in the air.

The pinch test works great for me to determine if it is lean or rich. Once the engine is running, open the throttle to full and pinch the fuel line going to the carb. If you have a remote needle valve, then the line after the fuel leaves the needle valve. If the RPM increases and drops, then it is too rich, lean it out some until you can pinch the line and it increases and holds there for a while. If it doesn't do anything it is too lean. If it cuts off you are way too lean and damage is coming quick.

#1 pinch = RPM increase and drop back down (rich)
#2 pinch = RPM increase and hold RPM (perfect)
#3 pinch = no change (getting too lean, no room for error)
#4 pinch = RPM drop (way too lean, damage coming)

I fly at a #2 pinch.

You may have to adjust the low end some only after you adjust the highend first.

This pinch test works good for pretty much any type of RC engine. Radial, multi and single cylinder 2 or 4 stroke engines.

DTB

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

Read the manual that comes with the engine. They'll give instruction on how they want their engine broken in.
Dennis-

FHHuber

Hold off on break-in until you go to the field and can get asistance.

An experienced person can guide you through it and get it done RIGHT.

You tie the tail of the plane to a convenient fence post (or a tree... whatever) get the engine running and set the needle... let it run at appx 2/3 to 3/4 throttle and when the sound changes (after about 3 min running.... then again about 9 min, then usually one more time somewhere within the first tank of fuel) its time to readjust the needle. (you can even turn the raido OFF while the plane sits there with the engine running.)

2nd tank, the engine might need one more needle adjustment. Its usually safe to fly it the second tank with the Thunder Tiger engines... You just make sure its tuned a bit on the rich side.

Nebbie

Here's how I break in my engines now:

1. Call club president and see if he has a couple hours to spare, set appointment.
2. Go to president's house. He mounts the engine on his stand. We run the engine through the first tank.
3. While the engine is cooling down, we talk about the hobby, look at what he is building right now (Kadet Sr modified to be night flyer with lights, landing lights, taxi light mounted to nose gear arm, bomb drop, etc).
4. Run second tank through.
5. Talk some more about who is doing what in the club, upcomming events, etc.
6. Run third tank through.
7. Pack up and spend another hour talking.

That is how we broke in my last engine. I have an OS .46 AX to break-in. We will probably do that tomorrow morning. The only change from last time is I will be the one adjusting the needle valve, with him assisting or giving advice.

I am a big believer in learning from someone else, rather than having to learn on my own. I would rather have someone help that is willing to share their experience than having to reinvent the wheel trying to do it myself. In doing it this way, I have gotten to see how a Master builder builds his planes, and gotten ideas for future projects.

EDIT: Forgot to add, doing it this way did get my wife upset with me as I got home late for dinner. But the weather was too crappy to fly (foot of snow on the ground). Spending time with the guys in the club was almost as good as flying!

Lightfoot

My Feedback: (1)

You will find that your Pro46 has precise instructions on breaking in your engine. I went by the instructions with mine and I had no problems. You will find as time goes on that the break-in procedure is just to make it reliable for the first few hours of use. I found that the Pro46's that I have only got better as they were used more. This seems to indicate that the break-in process continues as you use it.

I think you will be pleased with the engine. It offers incredible performance for a decent price. In my opinion, it is the best engine value on the market.

RCaillouet3

FHHuber has said it GREAT! Wait to break in the engine, until you find someone experienced with 2 stroke RC engines for assistance!

As to how to break in the engine, well the instructions that come with the engine or quite good, and give you extremely valuble info on how to break in the engine!

The process I used to break in my TT Pro .46 is as follows:

1. READ THE MANUAL THROUGHLY!

2. REREAD THE MANUAL AGAIN!!!!

3. Get the proper fuel, glow plug, and prop for you initial break in as per the manual.

4. Got some assistance from one of the local engine experts who was intimately familiar with the TT Pro .46!

5. Set up the engine as stated in the manual.

6. Ran engine with reccomended needle settings for one tank at full throttle.

7. Let engine cool for 1 hour (had a few honey doos pop up.)

8. Started engine ran to full power and checked engine rpm for peak, then set it to 400 rpm RICH of peak. Ran engine for approximately 2 minutes, then reduce throttle to idle and shut down engine.

9. Allowed engine to cool for 30 minutes. Then repeated #8 with another cool down of 30 minutes. Then repeated the process again!

I repeated #8 and #9 until finished the second tank of gas (was using a 10 ounce tank.) This process took a while, but it I think it was worth the effort.

Now as Lightfoot has sai, the TT Pro only gets BETTER with a few runs! I currently have 4 gallons of 10% cool power through it and it runs GREAT!!!!!

I bought the engine for my daughters RCM Trainer. The TT.46 Pro with said fuel, an APC 10X6, and high speed needle set to 400 rpm rich of peak, will HOVER her trainer, and slightly accelerat out of it when given full power! Hey being able to hover a trainer is FUN!!!!!!!!!! It also gets a few polite giggles from some of the other pilots when they are flying their 3D ship next to it and are having a hard time hovering!

Just my opinion on this though. But you should get some experienced help with it!!

Let us know if you have any problems! Also let us know how it is going!!!

Reg

scottfl78

I broke my TT .46 pro in about a month ago... The hobby shop gave me a video and I followed it:

Start it up and go to WOT (wide open throttle) make sure it is a rich 2-Stroke Why WOT?? Because it is a tapered sleeve engine and you have to get it hot fast so the sleeve will expand to normal geometry and the piston can begin to polish the cylinder walls...

Run the whole tank through it... And when it quits allow it to cool 10-15 Min... Doesn't take that long for a 2-stroke to cool...

Then re-fuel and repeat the process but this time, every 10 seconds or so lean it out and immediatly richen it back up (takes only a few turns of the needle

After those 2 tanks it is ready to fly... I ran it a little rich for the next 5 tanks or so...

The TT .46 is an AWESOME motor... Mine runs like a scaulded dog, but idles like a dream... Everyone at any field I go to is jeaolous because I show up, prime it 10 times (thumb over carb) and it starts on the first flip EVERYTIME!! I switched from Cool Power 15% to 25% and it had a noticeable difference in power... I run a 10X7 Master Airscrew (I have tried avery other prop even 3-blades and I'm sticking with this)

You can read RCU till you are blue in the face about break-in (I did it myself) but what I did works well, and the way my .46 runs is proof!

Oh yeah like stated above you can turn off the plane then the transmitter while running your engine WOT...

DTB

My Feedback: (15)

That is how I explained it in my post earlier. That is how I break all my motors in unless it is a ringed engine, then I run it as rich as possible on the first tank. ABC engines (non ringed) must be set to a 2 stroke as soon as the engine starts. Running it rich won't kill it, but it won't get up to operating temps and the sleeve won't expand properly. Look at the numbered pinch test I stated. This works very well.