Bolt on wing conversion for LT-40 - landing gear upgrade?
#1
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I think I want to do away with the rubber bands on this plane. Where can I find a detailed description of how to perform this mod?
Also, someone recommended to do away with the standard wire landing gear and get a stronger and less bouncy gear. I understand dubro sells them, but I am unable to find them on thier site. Any insight into where these upgraded landgear rods can be found would be great.
Thanks.
Also, someone recommended to do away with the standard wire landing gear and get a stronger and less bouncy gear. I understand dubro sells them, but I am unable to find them on thier site. Any insight into where these upgraded landgear rods can be found would be great.
Thanks.
#2
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From: Spokane,
WA
You can find that landing gear on tower hobbies site. You'll have to drill holes in the gear and your pine block for it. I used small blind nuts and bolts off a nose gear kit for it. Works good. You'll also need axles and wheel collars. I don't know about the bolt conversion. Someone else will have to help you with that one.
#4
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Here it is...
You must add a 5/16" (or 3/8) plywood block to the rear of the cabin. Make sure it has a cutout to clear the aileron torque rods if needed. This block should also have some tri-stock under it for strength.
With the wing in position (make sure it's right, you'll only get one chance), drill two 1/4" holes through the windshield, and into the wing, going back completely through the plywood wing joiner. Remove the wing, and epoxy 1/4" dowels into the holes so that they also go through the wing joiner and stick out about 3/8" in front of the LE. At this time, you can also add a 1/8" plywood plate to the center TE to support the screws. It's also a good idea to remove the center covering and fiberglass the center section around the dowels to keep them from ripping through the wing.
Once the epoxy has cured, reinstall the wing, make sure that it is straight, and drill two 3/16" holes through the TE plate and into the wing mounting blocks that you previously installed.
Remove the wing, enlarge the wing holes to 1/4" and tap the holes in the block with a 1/4-20 tap.
You're ready to go.
You must add a 5/16" (or 3/8) plywood block to the rear of the cabin. Make sure it has a cutout to clear the aileron torque rods if needed. This block should also have some tri-stock under it for strength.
With the wing in position (make sure it's right, you'll only get one chance), drill two 1/4" holes through the windshield, and into the wing, going back completely through the plywood wing joiner. Remove the wing, and epoxy 1/4" dowels into the holes so that they also go through the wing joiner and stick out about 3/8" in front of the LE. At this time, you can also add a 1/8" plywood plate to the center TE to support the screws. It's also a good idea to remove the center covering and fiberglass the center section around the dowels to keep them from ripping through the wing.
Once the epoxy has cured, reinstall the wing, make sure that it is straight, and drill two 3/16" holes through the TE plate and into the wing mounting blocks that you previously installed.
Remove the wing, enlarge the wing holes to 1/4" and tap the holes in the block with a 1/4-20 tap.
You're ready to go.




