Props
#2
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From: Payson,
AZ
Either the plastic or the wooden prop will do the job. The most important thing is the proper diameter and pitch. Either one will make mincemeat out of a finger or hand but the plastic being somewhat stronger will usully inflict deeper cuts. Wood breaks easier but the damage can still be just as bad. Check the owners manual that comes with the engine for size. Most pilots will soften the trailing edge of all props with a light sanding. This used to be more important when all engines were hand started. With electric starters and chicken sticks you can get away with more.
#4
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From: Columbus, OH
I have a 46fx on a trainer and chose the top flight power point (wood) 11x6. It is the recomended prop for that engine during break in. The manual also mentions that wood props tend to hold their shape better ( a nylon prop can actually bend out of their plane of rotation at higher rpm's). I like the look of the power point props too.
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From: Pointe Claire,
QC, CANADA
You may also want to think about this as well:
Wood props tend to be more fragile (will break) during a bad landing, casuing you to change them more often during your 'early flights'. The plastic ones tend to bend a bit, and avoid shattering on a hard landings..
And always remove the flashing on plastic props, and paint teh tips so you can see them when they spin!!!
Wood props tend to be more fragile (will break) during a bad landing, casuing you to change them more often during your 'early flights'. The plastic ones tend to bend a bit, and avoid shattering on a hard landings..
And always remove the flashing on plastic props, and paint teh tips so you can see them when they spin!!!
#8
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From: Columbus, OH
Wood props are definitely easier to break, but at 2.29 a piece, its not too much of a hassle... plus the way I see it, if the prop breaks, that's less shock going to my engine.. not sure if that makes sense or not though...
#10
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From: GA
a 12-6 will NOT degrade an engines performance whatsoever. On my .46 I sling a 12 1/4 - 3 3/4 and the engine is running in a safe RPM range, it also alows for UNLIMITED vertical and will out climb ANY other prop in its class. Ask ANY great pilot that flies 3D what prop he runs on a .46 motor and 9 out of 10 will tell you a 12-6 or a 12 1/4 - 3 3/4 (generally an APC wide blade, but it doesnt have to be). This is the size prop that I run and it will hover the mess out of my airplane. I will put my prop up against an 11-6 anyday in a hovering and vertical contest[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
On a .61 I run a 13-4W
On a .61 I run a 13-4W
#11
You both are right (and wrong) to some extent. A .46 engine won’t turn a 12-6 as fast as a 11-6 so you might say that the “performance” is degraded. However RPM is not the only factor effecting performance. Thrust is. Southern touch99 is flying at a special condition (hover) where static thrust is the most important need. His choice of a 12 ¼-3 ¾ can produce greater static thrust. A larger diameter propeller with a flat pitch is usually a good choice for maximum thrust at static and low speeds. The advantage is lost at higher speeds where a smaller diameter and more pitch would be better.
All that being considered, the original question regarded propeller choice for a “trainer”, where absolute performance is the least of factors. Our little engines are remarkably flexible and tolerant of pushing a variety of props. For the trainer, just pick a prop within the range recommended by the manufacturer, and go fly. You can’t go wrong.
All that being considered, the original question regarded propeller choice for a “trainer”, where absolute performance is the least of factors. Our little engines are remarkably flexible and tolerant of pushing a variety of props. For the trainer, just pick a prop within the range recommended by the manufacturer, and go fly. You can’t go wrong.
#12
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From: Londonderry,
NH
Hey guys beginner here................When I purchased my trainer the hooby shop guy told me to get a 11-6 wood pro... $11.00 each. He's also an instructor at a club.This week end I need to go back and buy some stuff, I think I'll get a couple of plastic props. But I'm still a week away from haveing my plane built. The wing is allmost done, just have to mount the servo cover the wing and and install the ailorons. I started building the tail feathers last night.
Cant waite for the first trainning flight.
Cant waite for the first trainning flight.
#13
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From: EU
I can recommend to use even bigger props together with your .46 engine.
I have tested a lot of different prop sizes to my extra 300 with .46 OS engine and i get the best vertical
performance with a 13x6 prop. Tomorrow I am going to try it out with 14x6 and i will update you on the progress.
cheers
H
I have tested a lot of different prop sizes to my extra 300 with .46 OS engine and i get the best vertical
performance with a 13x6 prop. Tomorrow I am going to try it out with 14x6 and i will update you on the progress.
cheers
H
#14
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From: GA
$11.00 bucks for a wood prop for your trainer?????[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] That is outrageous, there is no need in buying a prop that expensive for a trainer. Beware of the guy who is running the hobby shop. He is either 1. on track to price himself out of business or 2. Pulled one over on what he thought was a person who didnt know anything. For a trainer plane you sould NEVER pay more than 6 bucks for a prop, and most of them will cost you a good bit under $5. If you dont mind can you tell us the brand of the prop (it will probobly be printed on the front).
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From: Payson,
AZ
Southerntouch said all when he gave you the pitch on his 12" prop. A combination of diameter and pitch is what feeds the bulldog. A larger diameter and lower pitch prop will give you more RPM and increase your climb rate in most cases. If you're a full size airplane driver you know that the prop goes into low pitch for high RPM on take off and landing in case of a go around. Higher pitch is for cruise when used in conjunction with the manifold pressure guage, outside air temp and tach. If you want more vertical performance go for the lower pitch. If you want speed around the pylons high pitch will do it. We have some people that us 10 X 8 and 9 for pylons with a .46
#17
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From: Urbandale, IA
At the hobby shop it was kind of explained that you use a wood prop to train on as if you have a bad landing the prop will break and not bend the shaft. The plastic ones will bend and not break, but could bend the motor shaft.
$11.00 for a prop? How many do you want? I got mine a heck of a lot cheaper than that and they were not in the cheap bin either.
$11.00 for a prop? How many do you want? I got mine a heck of a lot cheaper than that and they were not in the cheap bin either.
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From: WY
Just my two cents, from a beginner ( which I definitly am)
I Hhave a n OS 46 on my trainer and use a 11x6 prop as per the man recommendation, and a plastic prop from my instructors recommendation.
We fly off a dirt field and wood props get eaten even on fairly decent landings.
I Hhave a n OS 46 on my trainer and use a 11x6 prop as per the man recommendation, and a plastic prop from my instructors recommendation.
We fly off a dirt field and wood props get eaten even on fairly decent landings.



