on my TT .60 trainer I am finishing I've found CA to be quite difficult to work with. Since the coving of my trainer is pre-painted wherever I use CA the paint will come off, I was trying to figure out a way to clean that up without removing the paint (which I am assuming acetone will do as well) Does anyone have any tips for application of CA to minimize the dripping/beading on parts I have fused. This particular ARF fuses some plactic parts with wood, the mold of the plastic can warp in some places and make it a bit more difficult to bond due to the fit not being perfect. I also believe the fumes from the bonding may even be taking some of the paint off. I just want to make sure I'm making this as clean as possible. I know its my first so it's not going to look that professional, but if I can fool a few spectators I'm all for it.

Try a different glue. Wood glue cleans with a damp paper towel. Epoxy cleans with a paper towel and rubbing alchohol, only before it sets, poly glue cleans with a paper towel and rubbing alchohol, only before the foam gets rubbery. I'd say try a different glue.

You should be using extender tips on your CA bottles. I use the hard tip that is about 3" long for my medium CA and I use the teflon micro tubeing (about 3" sticking out of the bottle) for the thin CA. Keep a small container of acetone WITH A LID nearby. As the tip for the medium CA gets clogged, take it off and put it in the acetone overnite, It will come out good as new. As the the micro tubing on the thin CA gets clogged, just cut off about 1/4" of the end.

Using the extender tips, very precise placement of the CA can be done without dripping it all over everything.

Thanks you guys for the tips. Do they have those micro-tubing tips at hardware stores like Lowes or Home Depot, or will I need to check out the hobby shops. My local Hobbytown doesn't carry the micro tubing, I've looked for that before. I can always order it from Tower I suppose lol.