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Old 07-28-2004 | 10:42 PM
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Default fuel proof paint

is rustoleum paint fuelproof??
Old 07-29-2004 | 08:55 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

SOME of the Rustoleum paints are fuel RESISTANT. The ONLY paint (that I know of) that is truely FUEL PROOF are the 2 part epoxy paints.

I have found that ACRYLIC LACQUER is as fuel proof as dope. Duro brand of Truck/Van paint at Wal-Mart is labeled acrylic lacquer. An 11 oz spray can is about $4.00 If it doesn't say ACRYLIC LACQUER on the back of the can, it probably isn't.

I have also found that 2 thin coats of MinWax PolyCrylic (the water base) is fuel RESISTANT to 10% nitro (possibly more) and does not yellow with age. I have also found that the MinWax PolyCrylic (water base) is compatable with just about everything. I have not found anything YET that it has an adverse reaction to.

Hope this helps.
Old 07-29-2004 | 09:20 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

thanks for the info. But i think think ill stay in the safe side and stay with luster coat.
Old 07-29-2004 | 09:28 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

IMO Luster Cote is a pretty poor paint. Easy to get on too thick and takes forever to dry. Hard to get a good gloss also. Also not truely fuel proof. It will soften if wet fuel sits on it. I had a cheap pre spad kinda spad like plane with foam wings and just a piece of plywood for a fuse, the tank is strapped to the plywood right behind the engine. Only I used velcro stuck to the tank and fuse. Well recently the fuel line came off and fuel poured all over the front of the fuse. When I tried to take the tank off the Luster Cote stripped right off. It was soft but did not bubble up. IMO acrylic lacquer is the best simi fuel proof paint, followed by dope. The dope takes longer to dry but it still dries much faster than Luster Cote.
Old 07-29-2004 | 09:50 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

sport_pilot, could the acrylic laqure be sprayed over krylon? becasue i have heard of people using krylon on there plastic parts.
Old 07-29-2004 | 10:07 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

I've had good luck with Rustolium but ONLY after letting it cure for at least a week, preferably a month before exposing it to fuels with any nitro content. Also, I'm told the metalic shades are much less fuel proof than the other colors but can not verify that from experience.
Old 07-29-2004 | 10:17 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

Tremclad works pretty well & gives a good gloss. Let it cure well before fuel exposure.
Old 07-29-2004 | 10:45 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

could i just spray a laqure on top of the paint?
Old 07-29-2004 | 11:14 AM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

Acrylic laquer is compatable with dope, both butyrate and nitrate. It is not compatable with any enamel. The thinner will soften the enamel and the laquer will dry on top of it. Since the laquer shrinks as it dries the result is a wrinkled mess. I don't know if it is compatable with Krylon or not, but the last time I tried Krylon it dried fast but not as fast as laquer. A general rule of thumb is you can put the slower drying paint on top, but not a faster one, so I doubt it is compatable with Krylon. I wouldn't use laquer on plastic parts except for fiberglass.
Old 07-29-2004 | 02:08 PM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

Use 2 coats of MinWax Polycrylic (water base). You will be safe as far as the paint compatability goes.
Old 07-29-2004 | 05:32 PM
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Default RE: fuel proof paint

I've heard it stated many times that Rust-Oleum is fuel proof. I just finished an airboat with the stuff and my biggest complaint was that it took forever. Used Rust-Oleum auto primer to fill the wood and wet sanded before applying the finish coat of white. Each procedure used up an entire day waiting for the stuff to dry. Haven't run the engine yet. After this I will use Lustrekote which dries rapidly I have never had it bothered by nitro and I use 15%. Lusterkote is in a sray can and applies the same as any other spray can paint. I could have done my airboat in two days instead of wasting the better part of a week on the finish and I'm sure it would be just as fuel proof as Rust-Oleum. The difference is about $6 per can. The ease of application and time saving is well worth it to me.

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