ok, I have the Altech P51 kit... know what engine i want (saito 80), am pretty sure I'm gonna go with a JR 6102 (might also try helis too)...

so, can anyone else give me a rough run-down laundry-list style on what other gear I'll need to get this bird flying and keep her flying?

thanks,

Uhm, an instructor, a trainer and maybe a couple of more planes after that. But, you aren't going to listen to that, are you?

I'm aware I need a instructor.

I'm aware I need a trainer.

My plan is to build the Mustang to the point where it is ready to fly. At some point between now and/or after that point I will buy a trainer. After completing flight timeon the trainer and when and if the instructors feels I'm ready for the tail dragger warbird, i'll be ready to gas it and go with their help.

I don't just listen, i hear too...

thanks,

Don't listen to us, just fly it.

lol... thanks Cyclic, but i'd like to check myself before I wreck myself lol

you mean accesories? like a starter, battery, glow starter,fuel,fuel line,fuel pump, field box to put it in, glue ,epoxy, assorted pliers and screwdrivers, and allen wrenches,,glow plugs and wrench , covering, iron and heat gun for covering, etc,,etc.........Rog

30 minute epoxy, (coffee can covers or card stock and coffee stirrers for mixing, $0.10 "acid brushes" for spreading where necessary (forget buying other mixing stuff), medium and thin CA, sanding tools, straight edge, XActo knife and a box of 100 #11 blades, good razor saw (like a Kona), Pliers (with cutting edge), needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrenches, wire strippers, soldering iron (lat two not absolutely required to start), covering iron and heat gun, covering materials.

12 volt starter, battery and charger, glow igniter and charger, fuel pump and extra fuel line (to go from pump to fuel jug, and pump to plane), Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV) for testing receiver pack, extra glow plug or two, a few extra props of different sizes in the engines suggested range.

I'd suggest that you get a 12 volt starter with a "self contained" 12 volt battery so you don't need a cord, a manual fuel pump and self contained glow igniter for the same reason. Also eliminates the need for a "power panel" and you won't have cords hanging all around the prop when starting the engine.

Get a $10 tool box at Walmart instead of a $40 "Flight box".

There's a hundred and one other things that you COULD buy, most of them not necessary for starting out.

Good luck and welcome to RCU,
Dennis-

thanks Dennis,

I have most of those tools thankfully..since beinga mechanic... I'll just have to pick up some of the "rc" specific stuff like the starter, glow stuff, fuel pump, battery monitor, etc...

could this post be made into a Sticky? I've been searching around on here for a decent listing of what you'd need to get going with a plane and just found drips and drabs...

I also posted a similar post in the Heli section since I plan on getting my hands into one of them too and just wanted to see what stuff I'll need, what stuff I can use for both, etc..

thanks everyone anymore ideas appreciated

Hearing is not the important part, listening is...

A better plan would be to lock the mustang, unbuilt, somewhere safe and give ALL the keys to someone else. Tell them you are NOT permitted to have the plane until your instructor says you are ready. Why would I say this? You will learn alot from building/assembling a trainer. In general, the instructions for trainers are desigined for beginners. The instructions for more advanced planes often leave out steps that are obvious to people who have already built and flown several other planes. So, if you procede on your planned course, you will probably make several building mistakes trying to put together your P51. The other issue is that once you've got your P51 almost ready, you are going to be itching to fly it. Most likely, you will try this not long after your instructor signs you off. The most likely outcome is your P51 will crash and burn.

You would do much better to get a proper trainer and learn about assembly, flying, and maintenance. Once you're comfortable flying your trainer, get a good second plane. These are typically low wing with some aerobatic capabilities. After you are comfortable with the second plane, perhaps you can begin to think about asking for the keys to the Mustang safe :-)

I know you did not want to hear this, but it would be best for your P51 if you listened to the advice many people are giving you.

Good luck,
Chuck

PS. On the subject of listening, the review I read of the Mustang said a .70 4 stroke was the largest recommended engine size. You want to put an 80 in it?

Chuck,

I appreciate the guidance...

but, I'm gonna build the Mustang anyway :P I've read through the assembly instructions several times, have all the tools and adhesives and want to finally have a nice Mustang to look at every day.

I've waited nearly 20 years to have one of these, just to have the model itself. I can wait a few more months, or years until which time I'm skilled enough to actually fly it. The plane doesn't have to fly right now to make me happy.

As for the trainer, I'm reviewing several to pick one or, once I get a chance, I'm gonna head out to the loacl flying field and talk to some people to see what they recommend and have experience with. So, if I do buy one and fly it, people around here aren't trying to figure out some alien trainer I went and bought.

Assembly doesn't intimidate me, well..except for painting and maybe monokote. I've never really been good at detail painting whethers its models or real cars and things. Never used monokote before..that's kinda why I went after the ARF Mustang, its precovered.

I'm very capable, from using a TIG welder to weld up and fabricate performance automotive parts, to various pliers and jeweler's screw-drivers for diassassembling and fixing laptops.

Regaurding the engine, I've been told the Saito 80 has the same dimensions as the 70, but obviously with more power. So.. why not stick it in there? I'm into hot rodding, don't you guys/gals hot rod these things at all? lol I'm already thinking of how I could fabricate a custom scale looking stainless exhaust to poke out the cowl maybe made out of some stainless automotive brake lines .. just an idea

Sounds like you've done more homework than the average "teach me to fly on this P51" beginner. Best of luck.

I hadn't done a specific engine comparison, but you're right, the Saito is about the same as the OS, and it's got a bit more HP. Of course people like to hot rod planes. You've probably already been to the Extreme Speed Prop Planes forum. I've just ordered a Lanier Shrike 10 kit. Specs say to use a .10 to .15 engine. I'm going to put an old OS .25 FSR and tuned pipe in it. Of course it's not a scale plane, I've been flying for quite some time, and making the necessary mods while building the kit don't scare me.

Monokote, or other coverings, are really pretty easy. The important part is to get some guidance, or read some of the good articles, before attempting it.

Chuck,

I haven't been over to that forum yet.. is it on here or another site?

Also, something else I'd like to learn more about are different prop sizes and balde counts...

I'm not sure if it would be good or bad, but iw as hoping to put a 4-blade prop on the Mustang for that real-thing look since every real P51 I know of had a 4-blade prop.

To hopefully help answer the first question, there is an excellent thread in the Tips and Tricks forum that talks about what you need for the field.

Here's a link... [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Field_Kit_%22Must_Have%22_List/m_1941761/tm.htm]Field Box necessities[/link]

although scale in the fact that it has 4 blades, it will be substantially smaller then the real one, and also the performance will suffer quite a bit with a 4 blade on compared to 2. (real p51's would probably have had 2 bladed props if they could have gotten clearance!, and actually on that same subject I just watched a show on the corsair. apparently the entire driving force behind the gullwing was that they had a monsterous 2000+hp engine in the front, and needed a huge prop, but couldn't get the clearance. hence the wing...)


as far as trainers, almost all the trainers with the exception of the nextstar are basically identical. they all fly about the same, they all look about the same and are constructed almost identically. one thing you will want to watch out for is what brand of radios the instructors have, so you can make sure to get something compatible for trainer box use.

I find it amusing that when someone makes a post like this in the beginner's forum, the first post is to jump on him, from someone who assumes he already knows the situation, rather than offer some sound advice.

DBcherry has an excellent list of parts.

I personally do not like the small 12-volt batteries for use with an electric starter. I use a 12-volt battery for a small car. It's got a carrying handle and I've charged it once this year so far. I never worry if I'll have the juice to turn my engine over. It is a little bulky, but it's something I deal with.

I would recommend that you get a trainer that you can assemble yourself, rather than an ARF. If and when you damage it, you will have a much better idea of what it's going to take to repair it, and that will carry on to other models like your P-51. Covering isn't too difficult. Takes some tries to get it decent and 100% wrinkle free. As a side note, I prefer H9s Ultracote over Monokote. IMO it goes on better and shrinks up better, and is easier to pull and stretch around curves.

Good luck whatever you choose to do!

Actually, Bill's right about the samll 12 volt battery packs available for starters. They work okay, but the 7 Amp is better.

The way I did it (finally) was to buy a pair of 6 cell RC car packs and wire them up for 14.4 volts (12 cells at 1.2 volts per cell), then made a plywood mount that fits the starter. I wired in "Sermos" connectors so I can use my Super Nova peak detection charger to fast charge the starter pack (and my Tx and Rx packs). I also have a fast charge for my glow igniter, so everything can be charged at the field.

While a trainer kit would teach you a lot, your running out of decent flying weather in NJ, so I'd go with an ARF. But get to the field before you buy anything, especially the radio gear. You want your transmitter to be compatible with the instructor(s). And virtually all trainers available today fly well.
Dennis-

It's here.
As others have already said, in general, 2 bladed props are most efficient. At scale meets you will often find models sitting on the ground with display props. These are nice to look at, but are replaced for flying. Based on your earlier post I would guess you are looking for prop info related to hot rodding. Hang out in the forum I pointed you to, and also in some of the racing forums (under Pylon Universe). There's lots of good stuff out there.

if you want to fly a heli and a mustang..then get a good computrize
radio system right of the bat...go heli radio . you can always use it
to fly a plane. only differnt might be a heli radio won't have a clicking feel
on the throttle..

while a scale stang might look good on the ground...you can't see it worth
a darn in the air as an r/c pilot. i put invasion stripes only on the bottom
to help is contrass better..
oki doki...add flaps to slow a brick wiht a tappered wing to help it snap better