Phoenix Models Sukhoi SU-31 46
#1
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From: Fenton, MO
do you guys think this would be a good second plane?? i really like the looks of it and im really into the tail dragers.
what are the capabilitys of this plane?
if not this plane can you guys recomend some more? i like taildraggers (if appropriate for my second plane) thanx a lot for the help..
what are the capabilitys of this plane?
if not this plane can you guys recomend some more? i like taildraggers (if appropriate for my second plane) thanx a lot for the help..
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From: Weirton,
WV
This is a great flying plane, but I don't think it would be appropriate for a 2nd plane.....you need to learn about things like tip stalls and throttle management on landing before flying something like this. If you're looking for a good 2nd plane that is a taildragger, check out the Four Star 40, or the World Models Skyraider Mach II. Also, the Tiger 2 is a great 2nd plane, and can be converted to a taildragger quite easily.
The Phoenix Sukhoi is not hard to fly, but it would be best suited as a 3rd or 4th plane. It would make a great first scale aerobat.
The Phoenix Sukhoi is not hard to fly, but it would be best suited as a 3rd or 4th plane. It would make a great first scale aerobat.
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From: West Chester,
PA
A guy at my field had one this past weekend and it is a great aerobatic plane, looks really good too. I don't think it would be a good second plane though. The four star planes are great second planes.
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From: Jacksonville,
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I used the Phoenix Sukhoi and the Giles as my second planes/low wing trainers. Biggest mistake I have ever made. I think that either a Four Star 60, or a UCD (ON VERY LOW RATES) makes a much better second plane. There are so many more variables involved with the sukhoi. It does not slow down near like a trainer for landings due to pretty hight wing loading. It also can have some other unpredictable tendencies. I think save the Sukhoi for a 3rd of 4th plane. It is a very nice plane though.
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From: el centro, CA
i thought it looked sweet too
not bad for an ARF. Best arf i've purchase to date. $120 is a good price too.
i'm happy with the plane. it's my 40th plane there about
the hinge pins needs to be glued thou.
the stock control horns or cleves needs to be toss out... i can wiggle the airlerons.
might as well use heavier control rods while i was at it.
i had to add lead wights to the left wing, but it required no further additional wieght
to balance the plane.
deffernently heavier than my .40 4 star that i've built.
not bad for an ARF. Best arf i've purchase to date. $120 is a good price too.
i'm happy with the plane. it's my 40th plane there about

the hinge pins needs to be glued thou.
the stock control horns or cleves needs to be toss out... i can wiggle the airlerons.
might as well use heavier control rods while i was at it.
i had to add lead wights to the left wing, but it required no further additional wieght
to balance the plane.
deffernently heavier than my .40 4 star that i've built.
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From: Fenton, MO
ok ill go with the four star. the only reason i decided against it in the first place is because there very popular. just wanted to be diff. haha.
im going with the 4* 40
but what engine could get me the fastest speeds?? without spending a load of money.
would the TT pro .46 be a good one??
im going with the 4* 40
but what engine could get me the fastest speeds?? without spending a load of money.
would the TT pro .46 be a good one??
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From: el centro, CA
build one and scheme/cover & bash it to your liking.
nobody has a 4* that looks and flies like mine.
the 4 * is a great kit for bashing.
there's more veriables beside power to obtain speed
prop pitch and size, airfoil shape, fuselage shape, over all wieght.
some air frame are not designed for speed.
control surface flutters or integrity of over struture.
depending on what type of flying you will be doing... torque might
be better than RPM.
a .46 TT will pull a 4 * .40 with plenty power to spare.
depending where you fly...you can take the baffle out of the muff to get a little more power.
not sure what the top speed is... 75mhp easy, probably way more.
you can experiment with props to miximize speed, or put it into a power dive.lol
but the wings or control surfaces might take off on ya.
i clipped the wing 2" on each. less drag and increased roll rates. less lift of course.
it has better speed than other 4*s at my field.
i lower the diehedral...i ain't no rookie. It'll still float anyways.
extended the rudder to help snap rolls and kniftegde
nobody has a 4* that looks and flies like mine.
the 4 * is a great kit for bashing.
there's more veriables beside power to obtain speed
prop pitch and size, airfoil shape, fuselage shape, over all wieght.
some air frame are not designed for speed.
control surface flutters or integrity of over struture.
depending on what type of flying you will be doing... torque might
be better than RPM.
a .46 TT will pull a 4 * .40 with plenty power to spare.
depending where you fly...you can take the baffle out of the muff to get a little more power.
not sure what the top speed is... 75mhp easy, probably way more.
you can experiment with props to miximize speed, or put it into a power dive.lol
but the wings or control surfaces might take off on ya.
i clipped the wing 2" on each. less drag and increased roll rates. less lift of course.
it has better speed than other 4*s at my field.
i lower the diehedral...i ain't no rookie. It'll still float anyways.
extended the rudder to help snap rolls and kniftegde
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From: Fenton, MO
thanx a lot leftnut. what i was wondering though is the kit gunna be to hard for me to put togethor??? how many hours are going to be needed in this???
than a lot
than a lot
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From: el centro, CA
it depends...i hated wood shop in HS.[:'(]
the 4* is much easier.
it builds like a trainner. if you've built a trainer ...it's that easy
minimal sanding..the newer kits are laser cut also.
the only part i hate about the kits is you need to sand or make
the TE piece of the main wing tapper.
rounding LE and beveling control surface is normal for most kits.
i can built it in 1 weeks or less than 25 hours,
but it's not my first time. i went thru the learning curve already.
it might take you 100s.lol
then again...i've spent 100s and 100s of hours fixing and hoping the HPI savage
and the Tmaxx. dump thousands into those erector sets too.
an 4* ARF is only $150...10-20 hours maybe if you havn't built air planes before.
2-3 hours for me...
you can put your own scheme design on top of the base yellow or red.
it'll cost the same or more for the kit after you get material require to complete
the kit and wheel pants. but i like to make minor mods to mine.
maybe the See Bee.., something Extra, U can do, Contender,and many more.
basically a straight wing cord with semi semitrical air foil wing.
the lighter the wing load the better.
the tapper wing type. it'll tip stall if the speed gets too low/ AOA too high. (snap roll)
usually during a landing. so you don't want it to float like a trainer
a snap roll 3 ft off the deck is not a good thing
sometimes the wing will also quit flying when you toss the air plane around
doing aerobics. you'll notice it as you fly more.
the 4* is much easier.
it builds like a trainner. if you've built a trainer ...it's that easy
minimal sanding..the newer kits are laser cut also.
the only part i hate about the kits is you need to sand or make
the TE piece of the main wing tapper.
rounding LE and beveling control surface is normal for most kits.
i can built it in 1 weeks or less than 25 hours,
but it's not my first time. i went thru the learning curve already.
it might take you 100s.lol
then again...i've spent 100s and 100s of hours fixing and hoping the HPI savage
and the Tmaxx. dump thousands into those erector sets too.
an 4* ARF is only $150...10-20 hours maybe if you havn't built air planes before.
2-3 hours for me...
you can put your own scheme design on top of the base yellow or red.
it'll cost the same or more for the kit after you get material require to complete
the kit and wheel pants. but i like to make minor mods to mine.
maybe the See Bee.., something Extra, U can do, Contender,and many more.
basically a straight wing cord with semi semitrical air foil wing.
the lighter the wing load the better.
the tapper wing type. it'll tip stall if the speed gets too low/ AOA too high. (snap roll)
usually during a landing. so you don't want it to float like a trainer
a snap roll 3 ft off the deck is not a good thing

sometimes the wing will also quit flying when you toss the air plane around
doing aerobics. you'll notice it as you fly more.
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From: Weirton,
WV
The Thunder Tiger Pro .46 is an excellent engine. I use them exclusively for my 40-sized planes (except for 2 OS .46FX's that I won in raffles....which I would rather trade for Pro .46's!) My 4 Star kicks butt with the Pro .46 in it. Unlimited vertical. I have an 11x5 prop on mine and it still moves along very quickly. Like leftnut said, experiment with different props. Just a word of caution, stay away from 10 inch props.......they don't have enough of a braking effect to slow the 4 Star down, and it will float forever.



