volkan

have seen so may threads about people asking about new aircraft.
So I decided (on the fact that I'm very board at school, and I'm a nice person!)
that I will write a Beginners Guide:

Intro:
First thing is first, flying is dangerous, I found this out the hard way MAKE SURE YOU ARE CONCENTRATING WHEN YOU ARE ANYWHERE NEAR A PROPELLER. Radio controlled airplanes are not toys, too many people think that they are. You must always read the manufactures notes and instructions. Now I will talk to you about choosing you first plane, engine, and radio equipment.

Choosing you plane:
The best way to start flying is with a ARF (ARTF) plane. ARF stands for 'Almost Ready to Fly' these kits require minimal construction. Most of the time all you need to do is glue (using epoxy) the 2 wing halves together, glue the tail in place, and install the radio equipment. You must/should start with a high-wing type trainer. Here is an example of one:
. As you can see, it is called a high-wing trainer because the wings are on-top of the fuselage. This makes the plane more stable especially in slow flight. There are many ARF Trainers like this, and most of them are pretty cheap. Here is a list of what I think are the best:
There are many other trainer kits just as good as these, maybe even some better than the above, so keep you eyes open. There are also RTR (ready to run kits [these are only found in the US]), but you gain no experience with these models, because everything is pre-installed, so I will not talk about them.
When you buy a kit like this, it will come in a box, with the plane assembled like this:
<-- You get the airframe, wings, and accessories like push-rods and wheels.
But before you start building you must READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, next you need an Engine and Radio.

Safety with ARTFs
(a) ARTFs are very popular and usually offer very good value for money but you should be aware that some airframes you may buy could have manufacturing or design defects. Close scrutiny of even a pre-covered airframe may pay big dividends if you can prevent a future failure.
(b) All visible glue joints within the fuselage should be checked, especially the engine bulkhead, fuselage bulkheads, wing mounting plates or wing dowels, undercarriage mountings and servo mountings. If you have any concerns then the reinforcement of many of these joints using scrap balsa strip-wood will significantly increase the strength and durability of the airframe for very little weight increase.
(c) Take particular care when gluing wing panels together. Follow the manufacturers instructions and when adding such things as dihedral braces make sure that the whole joint is wetted out by the glue.
(d) Check pre-fitted pushrods, snakes and clevises for suitability. Most will be fine but some have been seen that were inadequate for the job expected of them, either being to thin or too weak. The rule of thumb should be ‘if I was fitting this, would I fit this’.
(e) Always check flying surfaces for warps - don’t assume that a wing will be straight because it was built for you. Minor warps can sometimes be removed by gently heating the covering, twisting the surface in opposition to the warp and holding until cool. Major warps are a reason for returning to where you bought the model.
(f) The ONLY acceptable (and beneficial) warp on an R/C model is matched wash-out. That is, looking from the rear the trailing edge at each wingtip is twisted upwards a little compared to the root of the wing. If this is present then it MUST be even on both wings or it’s just another warp.
(g) On i/c powered models, have a good look at the fuel proofing around the engine and fuel tank bay. If you are looking towards something more than a throw away airframe then an extra coat of fuel proofer in and around the nose may be worth while.


Choosing your Engine
You need to choose a glow engine to the specs of the trainers, most trainer take the engine size of .40cu!QUOT! or about .60cu!QUOT! or anything in the middle. There are two types of engines, 2 strokes, and 4 strokes, these run differently, and 4 strokes sound more scale, and cost more, 2 stroke engines is what you need in a trainer. 4 Stroke's rev less but produce more torque, while 2 strokes do the opposite.

The most common engine size used in Trainers are .40 these engine all run on special glow fuel, designed for RC engines only. This can be purchased from a modelshop, with different oil contents, e.g. the basic fuel you need for a .40 size 2stroke engine is 5% nitro, while, ducted-fan engines use 30%, the higher the % the more pricey it is.

But first, here are the best 2 stroke .40 size engines (these engines have been tested along side with other engines):




I think that these two are the best as they are VERY easy to set up and run, and VERY reliable.
But both are pretty expensive.

If you get a normal .40 size engine, with a .40 size trainer, it will fly. But best people want a bit more than that. So if you are willing to spend a bit more
dosh on a bigger engine, then a .46 is the best idea. Most .40 size trainers will accept a .46 engines. Once again I feel that the OS46LA and the Irvine
.46ABC are still the best engines to start flying with.

Engines can be complicated, if you are unsure about anything just walk away, you must be as safe as possible with engines, they can make a phenomenal amount
of damage to fingers, and anything else it choose to eat up. Be safe, if you are unsure, go down to your club or local model shop
or just go to http://rcuniverse.com !!

Choosing your Propeller:
Propeller selection is very important. Here are the sizes that I would recommend for a TRAINER..
.40 --> 10x6
.46 --> 10x6 or 10.5x6 or 11x6

I used to use APC propellers, but since my prop accident, I have been using Graupner propellers,
these ones are made out of nylon and don't have as sharp edges as APC does. APC props
have very, very sharp edge! I don't think the they have Graupner props in the US, but I heard
that master air screw props are equally as good.
If you have any questions about choosing a propeller, just goto your local model shop. And while you
are they get a few spare props, because you will break some when you are learning to fly.

Choosing your Radio:
Here are the main manufactures of radio control systems in RC Aircraft (in the order for most used radio manufacturer by beginners and experts)
both JR and Futaba make some of the best radios in the world, they are both great.
As for servos, again Futaba, JR and Hitex make the best. however i do believe that
Futaba make the best beginners radios. Most trainers need standard size servos (there are mini, mega, micro etc.etc.)
All radios have channels, they range from 2 -14
a car uses 2 channels, a most trainers use 4 channels minimum, These are to move four control
surfaces:
-Ailerons (makes the plane's wings drop left and right)
-Elevator (makes the nose of the plane go up and down)
-Rudder (makes the plane yaw left and right)
-Throttle (controls the engine speed)
+ you can get optional stuff as well.
-Flaps (used to slow big planes on landing)
-Retracts (retracts and extends the landing gear)
etc. etc

In trainers there is usually one servo per control surface.
The best beguines radios sets (in my opinion) are:





When you get a radio set you normally get the following:
The radio, the receiver, 2x Nicads (one for the radio, the other for the rec) 4x servos + accessories and chargers etc.

you cannot mix equipment, it is never a good idea:
Here is some information on servo leads:


Once you have these you can build the plane! just read the instructions and ask RCU if you have any problems.

Field Equipment:
Here is a list of field equipment you will need to be safe:
Electric starter
12v Battery for ES
Glow Starter
Gloves (safety)
Tool Box (always bring your tools!)
- Pliers (all sorts, inc. Heavy Duty)
- Spanners (for prop nut, glowplug etc.)
- Screw drivers
- Spare Props / glow plugs
- Spare bits + pieces (pushrods, celvices etc.)
- Screws, nuts, bolts (bolts will go missing!)
- GLUE (bring CA + epoxy, you dont want to go home just cos a hinge has come unglued)
- Allen Keys


Safety:
Here is some general model safety taken from the BMFA:

(a) Models should be built to a standard such that they will not fail under normal circumstances, giving particular attention to control surfaces and connections.
(b) Models should be thoroughly checked prior to each flying session and after any abnormally hard landing.
(c) It is recommended that rounded spinners or safety propeller nuts of the domed type are fitted to internal combustion and electric powered models and that gliders and pusher powered aircraft noses should also be rounded (no needle noses)
(d) Care should be taken by the operator that propellers are of suitable size and construction for their engine or motor's operating speed. All propellers should be carefully balanced. Cheap and efficient propeller balancers are available from you local model shop and you should ask an experienced modeller for help if you are unsure how to use them.
(e) On internal combustion engines and electric motors, damaged propellers must not be used. Inspect your propellers regularly and replace any that are not in good condition
(f) On internal combustion engines and electric motors, metal propellers must not be used.
(g) The use of locking prop nuts is recommended, especially for users of 4-stroke engines. A backfire or ‘kick’ can loosen a prop nut and locking nuts will prevent the propeller flying off.
(h) Heavy ballast, or any other heavy part, subject to jettisoning in flight is prohibited. Jettisonable ballast must be of a safe nature e.g. water.
(i) All R/C models are subject to in-flight vibration, landing knocks, transport damage etc. Be sure that receivers and batteries are well protected, servos are fixed securely, control linkages (pushrods, snakes, closed loop etc.) are robust enough for their purpose, are properly supported where necessary and are as slop free as possible and that all control surface hinges and horns are fitted correctly. Pushrod clevises should fit control horns cleanly with no sideways strain and they should be fitted with a plastic or silicon tube ‘keeper’ as a secondary closure.
(j) When starting an engine always make sure that the model is restrained and cannot move forward.
(k) Never put yourself in a position where your face is in line with a turning propeller. A broken propeller will fly out and forward so make all engine adjustments from the rear if possible. A broken propeller will also be a danger to anyone standing nearby so take care that no-one is in line with it when starting your engine.

Check, Check and Check:

(At you flying field)
(a) Before you do anything else, make sure that you understand and are complying with the field frequency control system. NEVER switch on until you are sure it is safe.
(b) Before every flight, check that transmitter trims, rate switches etc. are in their correct positions and that each control surface on the model moves freely and in the correct sense.
(c) Immediately before take-off, flight controls must be checked for full, free and correct movement under full power if applicable. If there are any doubts as to their operation, DO NOT FLY.
(d) Flyers wishing to use adjacent frequency channels should first perform an interaction check. Flyers regularly operating together on adjacent channels should perform the check every two or three months.
See the previous section on Radio Control at Your Club for details of the simple check you should perform.
(e) Inexperienced R/C flyers should never fly without an experienced helper.
(f) Unless positive controls are in force, all flyers should use the same take-off area at any particular flying session.
(g) Do not taxi in or out of the pits area. Wheel or carry your model well clear of the pits before commencing taxying and stop the model well clear when taxying back after landing.
(h) Before take-off, check that both ground and sky are clear and never take off or land towards other pilots, spectators or the pits area.
(i) Always make the initial turn after take-off away from spectators and parking areas. Diving manoeuvres should always be pointed away from spectators, parking areas and other people.
(j) Always maintain a clear view of the model and allow plenty of room between the flight path and spectators, other flyers or model pit areas. NEVER fly between yourself and spectator or pit areas, especially when landing.
(k) DO NOT OVERFLY houses, domestic gardens, car parks, traffic, railways, organised games or spectators. You may not be able to control people walking by at a reasonable distance from the take off/landing area but you should take care not to overfly them at low level.
(l) At any sign of malfunction or an unexpected jettisoning of model parts, land as soon as it is safe to do so.
(m) Do not distract pilots, particularly when they are controlling models taking off or landing.
(n) Clubs should exercise strict control over the take-off/landing area used. Pilots about to take off should inform people already flying. Pilots landing should have priority but must call out their intentions ‘loud and clear’ and must NEVER assume that they have been heard. A pilot going out to take off may not hear a call over the noise of his model's engine.
(o) NEVER assume that the landing area is clear even if you have called landing. In emergency situations call for help from your fellow flyers and always be prepared to land in a safe place off the landing area if necessary. In ALL cases, the safety of people is paramount.
(p) Care must be taken at all times to avoid overflying operating transmitters. Pilots should stand together and should not be allowed to wander over the flying area when operating transmitters. Clubs should take action to prevent operating transmitters being taken out on to an active flying area when, for example, models are being retrieved.
There are exceptions to this particularly in some silent flight operations, and extreme care should be taken not to overfly transmitters in these cases.
(q) Take extra care when flying in adverse weather conditions. It is easy to lose sight of your model in fog or low cloud. Strong winds and turbulence can be a stimulating challenge but can catch out the unwary. Flying in rain can give serious radio problems if water gets inside your transmitter.
(r) The staging of deliberate mid-air collisions at airshows and public displays is banned and they are not covered by the Association's insurance.
PRE FLYING SESSION CHECKS
On arrival at the flying site:
(1) Check airframe for any transit damage.
(2) Check that servos and linkages are secure.
(3) Check undercarriage for secure fixing and correct alignment.
(4) Check propeller for damage and secure fixing.
CHECKS BEFORE EACH FLIGHT
(1) After obtaining frequency clearance, switch transmitter ON then receiver ON. Check that all controls operate freely and in the correct sense. Check that all control surfaces are in their correct positions with the transmitter trims at neutral.
(2) Look for any minor radio malfunctions such as slow or ‘jittery’ servos, glitches etc. If in doubt, DO NOT FLY.
(3) After starting the engine and allowing it to warm up, check that the pick-up from idle to full power is satisfactory. Hold the model with its nose pointing upwards at a steep climbing angle for ten or fifteen seconds and check engine operation at full power. If the engine falters or cuts it is usually set too lean and must be re-tuned. Repeat the test until the engine runs correctly in the nose-up attitude.
(4) With the aircraft held securely on the ground, open up again to full power and re-check all flying controls again.
(5) DOUBLE CHECK that all transmitter trims, rate switches, mixers etc. are in their correct positions and that the transmitter meter is ‘in the green’.

Be S.M.A.R.T. with your transmitter.
S...switch on
M...meter in the green
A...aerial secure and extended
R...rate switches all in correct positions
T...trims all in correct positions

CHECKS AFTER EACH FLIGHT
(1) Receiver OFF then transmitter OFF.
(2) Clear the frequency control system.
(3) Clean the aircraft down
(4) Check propeller, airframe, undercarriage, wing fixing etc. for security of fastening and for possible flight or landing damage.
REMEMBER - Never fly with a damaged aircraft or propeller, or with any possible radio problem.



Flying in the UK:
To legally fly a radio controlled petrol plane, you need to be a member of the BMFA (British Model Flying Accocation) (http://ww.bmfa.org)
You pay a small yearly fee, this fee covers you insurance. The insurance is for damage done to your self or another public member.
Next you need to find a BMFA flying club near your area, you can find this on the BMFA's website. Once you have joined, you will learn
to fly with a qualified instructor using the BuddyBox system, the learning process can take years or weeks, it all depends. Once you learn
you will have your solo flight, and after you will have the BMFA 'A' Test, this will allow you to fly solo forever. See the BMFA Website for more information.

Flying in the US:
Can someone please write about this and PM me.




Hope this helps

Cheers
Volkan

hankpajari

My Feedback: (1)

Terrific post, I am sure it will be very helpful to a beginner.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Volkan,

Very nicely done. This has been needed on RCU for a long time.

I would like to see it in a Word Document or PDF (Adobe) file.

I'm not trying to be picky. There are a few mispellings in it and in the case of the RTF pictures, I beleive you have them backwords where is says: "with the plane disasemblled like this:"

If you would like I would be more than glad to put this into a PDF and Word docment file and post it for download from my clubs web site. That's of course you have no way to do it yourself.

volkan

Thanks for the comments.
I have just finiished it, i will finalise it + export to pdf + doc.
and post it at:
http://volkan-dil.co.uk

smokingcrater

maybe add a 'flying in the US' section, since our policies are quite different. no association is required legally, but club and AMA membership is strongly encouraged. changing frequencies is illegal...

volkan

at the end on the post, i did ask somebody to write about flying in the US as i have no idea

Lightfoot

My Feedback: (1)

I wrote a Beginners Guide in 1997 and posted in on my web page. It is downloadable in Windows Word or Adobe Acrobat format. It has been translated into nine (9) languages that I know of and has been adopted by 37 clubs as their training manual.

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

You may want to make a not on the airtronics connectors.
I understand the new one is wired just like JR, Futaba and Hitec with the positive lead in the center.
What you have for airtronic is the old configuration.

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

Outstanding volkan! Choosing equipment in the U.S. is pretty much the same, except as noted above. AMA is the organization here(but not strictly mandatory), and is needed when flying at an AMA sanctioned club field.

Again, Good job!

starburst

I don't want to flame or anything, but here a couple of suggestion for your guide.

«a car uses 2 channels, a plane uses 4 channels minium, These are to move four control
surfaces»

Some planes are made to be used with 3 channels, (well they existed last time i checked) LOL

also

«Here are the main manufacters of radio contol systems in RC Aircraft (in order of best/most use manu.)

FUTABA
JR
HITEC
SANWA/AEROTRONICS
GRAUPNER»

ok, what exactly do you mean by «(in order of best/most use manu.)»?
What is best? best quality to price, the most robust design, the most hitech, the better looking? Also, the list you've given, is it made from assumption or was it taken from somewhere else? If so where?.
Also, what kind of test did you use to decide which radio is the best, did you use equivalent models?

And what exactly does «most use manu.» means?
most used in the world, in the states, in uk?
then again, where are the facts? (was there a survey?)
Also, are they «most used» by beginners or experts flyers?
How did you compile the data from «in order of best» AND «most use manu.» to be in a single list? What scale did you use? 50%-50%?
I beleive that you should clarify a bit more.

and last but not least.
Again, it's pretty much the same critic with the suggestion of engines.
did you test them, or was it tested by someone, what method was used to test. what were the hypothesis, the independent and dependent variables to conclude that those motors were the best.

Also, you might want to add a section about the .40 vs .46 size engine to start out with. As you know, some modelers say start with a .46 since it will be more usefull in the long run and it cost around the same amount.

like i said, my intentions is not to flame or anything. It's just that being a social-scientist (in training) you start to really nit-pick on the small things that can make a big difference.

-Starburst
also, sorry for the grammar, the english language is not my native one.

bryris

Can't do anything without someone having a problem with it. Its just like politics. lol

RC flying is full of opinions......the article is good and conveys the message. It doesn't neep to have loopholes filled and amendments proposed and other complexities. I am a moderate beginner, and I have researched all this stuff on my own. Comparing what I have learned to that article, it covers the important basics, without additional qualifications.

Commander_Drake

My Feedback: (2)

Volkan,

I am always impressed with your enthusiasm and positive attitude. Great information too. Are you bored in school because the classes are not challenging enough?

Glen

flyerdarren

It was a good piece of work, although, you can mix servos and recievers from different brands together, for example, I use Futaba servos in my Aitronics receivers with no problem. I think what you meant was not to mix Transmitters and receivers from different brands. Great work though

volkan

lol, no
Because im still recovering from my prop strike, im still off playing sports,
so I had 2 hours, i spent about 45mins on the thread. and the rest at my schools dt lab getting my extra ready.
check out the pics, im in there 24/7


starbust:
I see your points, maybe i didn't make myself clear enough.
It is a work in progress.
i will edit it in the morning! its 1am here now, and i want to go flying in
the morning.
G.Night

GrnBrt

My Feedback: (5)

Good start Volkan. You may be bored with school because like someone said, your not being challenged enough. I was bored to tears when I was in high school and really didn't enjoy learning till I got to college and the rest is history, man I love learning new stuff and at this late stage in my life I still find fascination with many things, stick with the education.

bingo field

No offense boss, but he's bored because he's still recovering from the nasty prop strike from a little bit ago. He doesn't have to hold a pencil in his teeth to type anymore, and he's chomping at the bit to do more with his hands. I only wacked my fingers with compression a couple of days ago, and the dadgum things are still sore.......

Flyboy BigK

Great beginners post, the only thing I noticed was that when you referred to the fuel % as percentage of oil
in the fuel, I think the fuel % refers to the nitro percent. If I am wrong would someone please correct me.

starburst

volkan, an other section that you might want to implement, which i think would greatly benefit newcomers (like me).
Would be to include a section : Propellors 101

-Starburst

autopilot

volkan

edited.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Guess I cannot spell either...Sorry Volkan

Sokhar

nice post I when I finish my RC site I may contact you about adding it

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Volkan.

The RCU writing staff has been working on this type of article for some time now, but we keep getting side tracked with other projects.

This is a great start!

tucker1865

My Feedback: (6)

Volkan....super info...one question? What school are you going to, board is bored. Just a little joke. Dave

phantomfixer

Wow! That was an awesome post. I greatly appreciate your dedication to the subject.
Ken