Im setting up flaperons on my four star and im not sure how much throw they should have. I need to know how much throw the flaps should have and how much the elevator should have when i turn the flaps on.

John

I would start with the flaps moving no more than 50% of the aileron throw. I also leave the elevator out of the mix until I get the flaps working as I like them. Then I start adding elevator a little at a time.

I have had a 4*60 for 3 years built from a kit and still love it. To answer your question, I use full flaps with 4% up elevator. This prevents the plane from diving on approach and keeps the plane level on approach. My 4*60 has a YS .91FZ spinning an APC 15x6 with a total of 7 servos. Dual (seperate) elevator servos, pull-pull rudder, better tail wheel, counter balance rudder, 1" extra on rudder and elevator. I also have a parachute drop door built into the plane. This is so much fun to drop candy, chocolates, pepperments or a parachute during fly-ins for the kids to catch so the winner will get a prize. The parachute (candy) hatch is fully motorized up and down from a flip of a switch. In normal flight, the plane appears normal until the hatch opens and a parachute falls out or candy rains down over the crowd. This is a true crowd pleasure (literally). LOL...

I hope the plane and setup works out for you.

Derrick

Oh God, Eye Heart Four-Star!!! Have a ball experimenting with flaperon, but you really don't need it. DTB, that 4* of yours kicks some serious butt! A YS? I bet that rocks and rolls all day long! I loved this plane sooo much, that I copied it in coroplast. 1/2 pound weight difference, and only costs $40 per airframe! What a great design!

Thanks a lot Deadeye, You are correct about the flaps. This plane floats a lot as it is. The flaps do help stablize the plane more on final not that it is an unstable aircraft at all. The flaps just puts it on rails for the runway so to speak. The YS .91FZ does pull this plane with amazing performance. I am able to do a knife edge loops easily, flat spins, inverted flat spins, walls, parachutes, waterfalls, blenders, etc... With my 1" addition to the rudder, elevators, counter balance rudder and having my CG about 1/2" pass the recommended position also is a plus, so hovering and torque rolling is not a problem at all. The only downfall is once it flat spins, it will continue on it's own even after you try to stop it, but it is a true FLAT spin so I have to stay high to get it out of the flat spin. Unlimited vertical is a very real fact. Once the plane hops off the ground you can point the nose up and continue until you get dizzy. A buddy who flies with me is a policeman who radared my 4*60 doing 116 mph.

How does the coroplast version fly? That is very impressive. Looks just like the original.

DTB, 116 MPH? WOW! My coroplast version (Cor-Star) flys just like it's balsa sister. Like I said earlier, it builds about 8 oz heavier than the original, and I have my wing about 2" back further than the original (CG issues). It's my favorite plane to fly. Best part is, I can build another in about 9 evenings. I've also bashed this design into a bipe and a twin.

I AM LOVING that biplane. That is awesome. I wouldn't mind having that one. Is that your design or a Spadtothebone.com version?

DTB, thanks for the kind words. That bipe is all my design. You can read all about [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1832636/anchors_1832636/mpage_1/key_cor%252Cstar%252Cbipe/anchor/tm.htm#1832636]here.[/link]

Yea I guess I dont really need them, I just got a little excited when I got my new radio, I wanted to start mixing things and flaps was the first thing to come to mind. I like how you did the "break away" checkers, very creative! My four star is very boring looking with the plain red but I did have money to get a whole bunch of different colors and I just wanted to fly it. I took a bay off each wing after flying it with the normal wing a few times and havent tryed the new wing yet, I found it hard to land when the plane floats so much.

John

Deadeye... Nice planes and a Great Job on them!!.. The all look
great!! Maybe I need to try coroplast... At $40 ea. I may be able
to swing that rather than trying to come up with 2- $400+ for a
model... Now if I can just glue well, and come up with plans I would
have some of it down pat....

DTB,
The glue I use is polyurethane (Elmer's Probond), and you can read about my building methods [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1201120/anchors_1201120/mpage_1/key_cor%252Cstar/anchor/tm.htm#1201120]here.[/link]

As far as plans go, you could try www.spadtothebone.com for true 'SPAD's, or you could do like I did, and just copy an existing proven airframe. I used my ARF's fuse for a template, as well as the tail feathers. Price of ARF: $200, price of the Cor-Star: $40, seeing something YOU built from scratch zip around the sky gracefully: priceless. [8D]

The bay off each wing is a popular mod. That wing just loves to float, and I experience ground effect when it's a hot day too.

Thanks so much Deadeye. I am familar with poly glue. I used gorilla glue to install Robart Hinges on my Funtana S 90. Works great. I'll have to look closer at the Coroplast version. A couple of years ago, I built a SPA3D. This was my first plane made from the material. I've never built any thing so detailed as your ultimate. I really like the bipe. If I decide to do it, I may be contacting you in the future if you don't mind.

Thanks,
Derrick (DTB)

I don't mind at all. Go ahead and email me whenever you need to.

My apologies to nmtr13 for hijacking his thread.

guy's,

I just wanted to point out what I noticed about all of you guy's. you guys are very polite and extremely heplful. This might just be the best thread i have been to yet!! I find it so awesome that everyone is so nice and helpful.

keep it up!!
Brian