after run oil
#2

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From: Frederick,
MD
I have used commercially available after run oil.
Also tried WD-40 which works (it does evaporate after a while).
A fellow pilot uses 1/2 kerosene and 1/2 tranmission fluid as after run oil. Haven't tried 3 in 1.
All seem to work fine. After clearing the engine of fuel drop a few drops in the carb. Flip the engine over smartly a few times to get the oil in the moving parts. Some pilots remove the glow plug to get better coating particularly with 4 stroke engines.
If you use the WD-40 be aware the engine can fire when flipped without the glow driver attached!!!!
I use heli fuel in my glow engines (2 strokes only) and add 2 ounces of castor to a gallon. I have engines that after several seasons don't show wear and run great. In the 4 strokes the 20/20 seems to work best. I only use after run when I won't be flying for a while.
EXCAP232
Also tried WD-40 which works (it does evaporate after a while).
A fellow pilot uses 1/2 kerosene and 1/2 tranmission fluid as after run oil. Haven't tried 3 in 1.
All seem to work fine. After clearing the engine of fuel drop a few drops in the carb. Flip the engine over smartly a few times to get the oil in the moving parts. Some pilots remove the glow plug to get better coating particularly with 4 stroke engines.
If you use the WD-40 be aware the engine can fire when flipped without the glow driver attached!!!!
I use heli fuel in my glow engines (2 strokes only) and add 2 ounces of castor to a gallon. I have engines that after several seasons don't show wear and run great. In the 4 strokes the 20/20 seems to work best. I only use after run when I won't be flying for a while.
EXCAP232
#3
Hello,
Another type of oil you can try is the Hobbico After Run Oil. I haven't used any of the other oils mentioned, but I really like the idea of using preformulated commercially available oil that is also relatively inexpensive and lasts a LOOOOONG while. As for application of After Run Oil in the engine you simply open the carb and if you prefer take the glow plug out, and then just put 3-4 drops into the carb and the glow plug hole. Then slowly flip the engine over(doesn't matter if you reinstalled the plug or not). I have found that if the engine sits around for a month or more(rarely
) the oil "disappears", that is the film of oil is no longer noticable on the piston. If that happens, I preffer to oil the engine again before I take it out to the field.
Search the RCU boards for after run oil threads and something should come up.
Happy flying!
RF
Another type of oil you can try is the Hobbico After Run Oil. I haven't used any of the other oils mentioned, but I really like the idea of using preformulated commercially available oil that is also relatively inexpensive and lasts a LOOOOONG while. As for application of After Run Oil in the engine you simply open the carb and if you prefer take the glow plug out, and then just put 3-4 drops into the carb and the glow plug hole. Then slowly flip the engine over(doesn't matter if you reinstalled the plug or not). I have found that if the engine sits around for a month or more(rarely
) the oil "disappears", that is the film of oil is no longer noticable on the piston. If that happens, I preffer to oil the engine again before I take it out to the field.Search the RCU boards for after run oil threads and something should come up.
Happy flying!
RF
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From: Terrell,
TX
While the engine is running ,disconn the fuel line to burn off the fuel in the engine,if you can't get to the fuel line ,drain the tank and run the engine to burn off the fuel, if engine is 2s put oil,dozen or so drops,in carb.,turn the prop to get the oil in the bearings and the lower unit,if 4s,the oil goes in the breather vent hole. Any corrision- inhibiting oil will work,I use marvel mystery oil,3in1 will work,transmission fluid,or a blend of something will work.
Have a goodun,John.
Have a goodun,John.
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From: Kent WA ,
WA
I have used two types. Marvel mystery oil and Synthetic 10wt. motor oil. I prefer the synthetic oil. ONe quart from the walmart will last a lifetime. YS Engines cannot use Marvel oil without damaging the o rings etc. Per the directions. synthetic does the trick for all. I think WD-40 and 3 in 1 may tend to sop up the water and not be as good a preservative as the others. Just a thought. YOur choice.
#7
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Marvel Mystery oil is not the best, use Marvel Mystery Air Tool oil instead or any air tool oil. The purpose of the after run oil is to displace any moisture and especially nitro residue (it creates nitric acid when combined with water) and neither Marvel Mystry oil, WD40 or light machine oils do this well. Stick with an air tool oil, transmission fluid, Rislone (the one in the yellow container) or the commercial after run oils. The best buy for the buck is Rislone and it works as well as the others. do use enough each time, just a few drops wont do, especially in the 4 strokes. You must use enough to displace the moisture and nitro deposits which means enough to thouroghly coat the bearings, about a teaspoon full in the crankcase on 4 strokes. After insertion of the oil, rotate the engine as you manually rotate the prop to make sure the oil flows to all areas.
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From: Yokosuka, JAPAN
After-run oil is a marvelous thing for our little Motors. My opinion is if you're flying at least once or twice a week, your engine doesn't really have the chance for time and corrosion to take it's toll. However, there's nothing that says your gonna hurt anything by doing a little preventative maintainence. The main thing here is to displace moisture. I like using PB Blaster. Anything that's gonna work it's way into your bearings. It's especially useful to use the after-run in engines with bushings instead of bearings. Since they're more metal on metal, that first few seconds when they're started up is hell on that crankshaft.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
You have to take care when using oils like WD40 and a bunch of other because they will eat rubber and other types of Orings and plastic lines The after run oils are not supposed to eat rubber but do be careful



