solder problem
#1
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From: Mount Airy,
NC
I have no real experience in soldering anything. I am trying my best to learn but am having great difficulty with the solder not melting. When I apply the solder iron to the solder and/or metal, the solder does not melt for many, many minutes. And even then, I find myself trying to press down hard on the solder to try and melt it and when I do, I only get a ball of solder that hardens before I can get it to spread where I want it. Yes, I have heated the metal parts to be joined with the iron first and then touched the metal with the solder, but it still would not melt that way. Can it be that I may have the wrong type of solder? I am using one that is 40 tin/60 lead acid core. I don't know if there is any such thing as different types of solder. I would appreciate any comments from anyone with experience in soldering. Thank you,
Sugarfoot
Sugarfoot
#2

My Feedback: (3)
Your acid core solder is suitable for joining things like steel wire. You'll want to clean the steel well, perhaps with an acid flux, and use a bit higher wattage solder gun or iron. I think cleaning, and the use of flux, will handle your problem, but if not, get a more powerful soldering gun.
Don't use this solder on electrical wiring, you would want resin core solder of a small diameter for that.
Good luck,
Dave Olson
Don't use this solder on electrical wiring, you would want resin core solder of a small diameter for that.
Good luck,
Dave Olson
#3

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From: Miami,
FL
Sugar Foot: If you have a soldering gun that has a removable tip/heating element you may find, as I have, that the contact points on the tip have corroded/oxidized to the extent that the electricity is not flowing through the tip as it should and thus the tip does not get as hot as it should. If you can, remove the tip and using some sandpaper or a wire brush clean the area where the heating element goes into the gun, reassemble and give it a try. Note also that not all fluxes are created equally; if you are still having problems, try a different brand of flux.
#4
Senior Member
"Tin" the end of the soldering iron (or gun) gun first-
Sand it lightly to clean it, then turn it on, and after it's fully up to temp. touch the solder to it. Just enough so it melts on there. You can wipe off the extra with a cotton rag if you get too much on there. Now it's tinned, and will work much better.
Now, when you are ready to solder, let the iron heat up fully (5-6 minutes should do it) now touch just the slightest amount of solder to the tip, it will get shiny. NOW touch the area to be soldered for a few seconds making sure you have a desent amount of contact with the part. Next touch the solder to the point where the IRON TIP meets the WORK, and it should flow right onto where you need it.
Don't add too much solder, just 'til it looks shiny, then remove the solder, then the iron. Don't move anything you soldered for a couple of seconds.
A good solder joint will look shiny, not dull or pitted.
Sand it lightly to clean it, then turn it on, and after it's fully up to temp. touch the solder to it. Just enough so it melts on there. You can wipe off the extra with a cotton rag if you get too much on there. Now it's tinned, and will work much better.
Now, when you are ready to solder, let the iron heat up fully (5-6 minutes should do it) now touch just the slightest amount of solder to the tip, it will get shiny. NOW touch the area to be soldered for a few seconds making sure you have a desent amount of contact with the part. Next touch the solder to the point where the IRON TIP meets the WORK, and it should flow right onto where you need it.
Don't add too much solder, just 'til it looks shiny, then remove the solder, then the iron. Don't move anything you soldered for a couple of seconds.
A good solder joint will look shiny, not dull or pitted.
#5
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From: Mount Airy,
NC
Thank you Dave, I think the higher voltage iron is probably a good idea. Yes, I was trying to solder a pushrod wire to a clevis and also some soldering to a wheel. I just checked and my iron is a 30 watt. I see in the catalog that I can get a 60 watt. Sure wish I had bought that the first time. Yes, I also cleaned the metal and used flux, but I think you are right about that using a hotter iron. Thank you again for you help.
#6
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From: Mount Airy,
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Oh wow, I didn't really think I'd get so much help so quickly. Thank you all very much. I think I'm going to try each and every suggestion to see what happens now.
#7

Hi!
Yes! A 30W iron is way to weak.
I recommend a 50W-75W Automatic temperature controlled sweat soldering iron, like the one I have (50W Weller, 30 years old). These professional soldering irons use iron plated tips that never oxidizes and get worn out.
I also recommend that you get the Great Planes sweat solder, with acid, this stuff is also called Stay-Brite and is superior to any ordinary sweat solder, much stronger and much easier to use as you don't have to clean the piano wire before hand...just pour the acid on and solder.
Don't use it for electronic soldering though!
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
Yes! A 30W iron is way to weak.
I recommend a 50W-75W Automatic temperature controlled sweat soldering iron, like the one I have (50W Weller, 30 years old). These professional soldering irons use iron plated tips that never oxidizes and get worn out.
I also recommend that you get the Great Planes sweat solder, with acid, this stuff is also called Stay-Brite and is superior to any ordinary sweat solder, much stronger and much easier to use as you don't have to clean the piano wire before hand...just pour the acid on and solder.
Don't use it for electronic soldering though!
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
#9
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
I agree that the 30 watt iron is too little for mechanical joints such as you are trying to solder--pick up a 50 to 75 watt iron(don't waste your time with a soldering "gun", IMO) and you'll be much happier. Also, that 30 watt iron you have is perfect for electrical work. I use a 30 watt weller from home depot for building battery packs and soldering connectors, etc.



