Well, I hate lying so here it goes:

The thing is half car and half airplane. Its called AirRusty...just I posted engine questions here because it is a airplane engine and I'm kinda new at working on engines.
Please, to talk about AirRusty, post [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2789865/mpage_5/tm.htm]here[/link]. Thanks!

AirRusty:





Back on topic...

From that pic the fuel tank looks too high, have you tried lowering the tank till the middle of the tank is in line with the NV. Also the brown gunk is baked on oil, not harmful but hard to get off you can use antifreeze or dishwashing powder to get it clean (can't remember the method at the moment)

Cheers
Vaughan

haha pmsl listen mate next time just be honest no ones gonna ignore you if youve got a question for us?.that contraption looks dangerouse i hope you fly erm drive that thing where its out of the way of living things lol?.ps have you tried putting it on a boat?.

pmsl? Yes, I drive where I won't hurt anyone.

As for the "on the boat" thing....

[link=http://www.aquacraftmodels.com/boats/hcab27main.html]Air Force Boat[/link]

all i can say is it looks better in the boat lol.have you sorted the engine out yet?.

forgot the pmsl bit means Pi*s My Self Laughing!!!!

nother problem...I noticed I can move the shaft that the prop sits on about 2mm out then back in and it makes this click sound. I tried to tighten the backplate but it didn't work...what is going on?

Thanks!

You have a classical engine problem, and your engine is clearly telling you what it is. The breaking in procedure on the OS 40 LA begins with the needle valve cranked out 1.5 to 2 turns. Yours is out to an extreme point plus the throttle is half way opened. Your engine is starved for fuel. It isn't getting any! The problem isn't with the engine but the fuel delivery system. Check the following:

1. A chunk of dirt in the needle valve. Take it out and blow through it. Check the line to the carb from the needle valve.

2. A broken, plugged, or a hole in the fuel line(s).

3. The lines in the tank aren't installed correctly. Take the tank out of the plane and check it out.

If you have another tank, try using it outside the plane. The level doesn't matter as long as it isn't too low. Make sure you have the line connected to the muffler. Whatever you do, don't screw with the low speed adjustment. This is a pain in the butt to get correct, and the factory setting is OK.

Whatever you do, don't take off until you get that engine broken in and running reliably with plenty of power. Otherwise, you'll be shopping for a new plane. BTW, the shaft end play is OK too. What are you? A hypochrondriac?

Ciao,


Eagle Al[8D]

I don't know what hypocondriac is...so I looked it up.

This is what I got:

No, I'm not worried about getting ill.

So the shaft being loose isn't bad at all? Thats what I'm freaked out about...sorry for asking agian...just want to make sure before I start it up and the engine/prop/spinner flies off into someone's leg.

Thanks again!

I suggest you prevent another headache by getting rid of the spinner and get a prop nut that accomodates an electric starter cone. Great Planes makes one in either aluminum or bronze. Yes your shaft end play is OK, and if the engine blows up, Max has a two-year warranty on it. If you can't get the engine to cooperate, send it back to Max or the vendor for replacement or service. They'll likely give you a new one.

Ciao,

Eagle Al

i know that this has already been adressed but. I had an O.S .40 in my plane and couldn't get it to run well at all. All it took was a long time just adjusting the needle valve. It still wouldn't idle good at all, every landing was dead stick. I changed the glow plug and bingo that was it, now it runs great. Just thought i would get my five cents in.

Wow! Thanks everyone for your help! I forgot to put the prop washer back on (1.5mm) and now that I put it back on, there is almost no shaft play in it. I'm running it rich right now (3 clicks from the leanest it will go) so there is a good smoke trail following that. Plus its warm here.

About the spinner, I looked at mine and there are cracks and breaks EVERYWHERE! Is a prop nut okay? I've never used one (always used Du-Bro spinners) so I'm kinda skeptical...

Thanks again everyone!

IBrakeForNobody

3 clicks doesnt sound rich to me?,do you mean clicks or full turns?also you dont need a spinner but im not familliar with the dubro props are you saying they dont have a prop nut?.have you closed the needle valve till the engine sound changes to two cycle?(higher pitched sound).then you know youre getting there,then keep closing it a click at a time each time you run it till you really get it cranked down!!!.youll know when its running at its optimum.do you not have the manual for the engine it should tell you all this in there.

Set the needle valve to where the engine just begins to two stroke. Three clicks out from maximum rpm is too lean. On each flight, turn it in a click or two until you reach the point that Max calls optimum RPM. This is a point that is 15-30 degrees rich of maximum RPM.

A prop nut holds your propellor on and alllows the use of an electric started on it. You'll also have to get a new starter insert. This arrangement is super reliable and practical. Get the Great Planes one for $5.49 I believe. I think you need to spend more time and attention to details. For example, Max has a very fine operations manual, and if you had carefully followed it, you wouldn't be having these problems. Also, start observing what flyers are using for field equipment at your field.

Flying is about executing and carefully following procedures and fine attention to details whether it be a model or full scale. Any other path will lead ultimately to disaster. You don't want a model plane stuck in a tree or someone's head do you?

Ciao,

Eagle Al

The engine is now 5 clicks richer than maximum RPM...I think more like you said is what I need. The engine was HOT after like 5 mins so thats gotta tell you something about my tuning skills. I'll go read the manual now...

Thanks again!

Oh and at 5 clicks out from max., it spews out liquid fuel out of the exahust so I thought it was rich...

lol you make me smile ,NOW youre gonna read the manual??good luck with it mate!!!

Heck, nobody reads the manual!

Hi!
This is a Prop nut!
Can make any dimension you like.
Regards!
Jan K

Hey,

Is it possible to rig a air cleaner (found on RC car engines) to the OS 40 LA's carb? 'Cause in the application Im using the engine, its always dusty.

Thanks!

i don't think that a car engine air filter will work because i think they are too big and might get in the way of the prop. They do make air filters for airplain engines. [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX9158&P=0[/link] this is a Bru Line Coarse Air Cleaner. We run them on out planes because some times we are flying off the dunes at the beach.

Thanks! That is just what I was looking for! Do you think it will fit on the OS 40 LA? It says"fits .45-.60 size engines" and I have never seen a 45 but just to be sure it wont fly off. [&:]

Nother kinda newb question...

Theres always oil/fuel under the muffler that I think is leaking from the joint where the muffler and engine meet...is that normal?

Thanks!
IBrake

Yes

k thanks!

No it's not normal... you can live with it but it will fill your engine compartment with oil goo....
take off your muffler and you can make two things:
cut out a cardboard gasket from light cardboard about 1/32or 1/64 inch (any thin box will do) and make all the holes in its proper place and put the gasket between the engine and the muffler
or get a silicone based (permatex or similar) tube and use it to form a gasket by spreading a thin film of silicone around the muffler, be careful not to put too much or it could be ingested by the engine