I went to the field even though the winds were howling to test run my new ASP Super series 52. It was very stiff to turn over. Ended up running some fuel in the top with the glow plug removed and spinning by hand to loosen it up. It wouldn't fire up at all. I removed the plug and looked, the spot weld on the wire was broken. New plug and it fired right up. First run and all ready I can tell that it has way more power than my FX46! Just into my second tank and the engine quits. I check and the glow plug is burned out!! I replace it and start leaning out the engine a bit more. Now I am getting 13,900 on an APC 10-6 prop! Ran the engine until the 2nd tank ran out. Its getting colder and the wind is about 30 km/hr so I have had enough. So the engine starts easy and has gobs of power but, the glow plug shouldn't be burned out after just over 1 tank of fuel. Is the engine a glow plug eater or did I just get a bad glow plug?? It would be nice to know before I head to the field again. []

I would guess you had a bad plug. What kind of plugs are you using? What nitro % are you using?

I would guess its a fluke, but if you are burning them consistant, check your mixture. That would indicate its leaning and burning them.

It was a Fox plug with an idle bar, not sure which version. I am using 10% nitro with 18% oil. I know I wasn't running too lean so maybe it was just a bad plug. Maybe I'll break down and get an OS plug. Can't hurt. [8D]

Yea, I used to use fox plugs exclusively. Quit using them many years ago. Their quality went to heck. Use OS # 8 plugs most of the time now. They work pretty good and last quite a while. You can find deals on them if you watch.

Thankx for the tip FLYBOY! I'll pick some up tonight. [8D]

I have had others also ask for help with these beauties. Have gotten several PM's asking for help.

We have five running here, running well, super powerful, very reliable. But
they don't come out of the box that way.

Try the following:

Fuel: For best results use 5% nitro fuel, at the most 10%. The engine has
high compression and 10 - 15% fuel can cause pre-ignition - which is
probably what you hear as a crackling noise in the air. You can use a shim
to lower compression if you really have to use 15% fuel, but the 5% fuel is
cheaper and it performs very well with it. A cold glowplug may help to
prevent pre-ignition in flight at higher throttle settings with 15% nitro.
Most of us here use 5% fuel (with 18% oil - of which 1/3 is castor oil 2/3
is synthetic oil ) with an OS 8 glowplug or a Hanger 9 Superplug.

This problem: "decides to cut out on transition from low rpm to high rpm.
This happens on takeoff runs or in the air" is most likely due to a too rich
low speed needle valve setting. At idle before take-off the engine loads up
with unburned fuel and then douses the glowplug when full throttle is
applied for take-off. This also causes a too rich midrange with lousy
transition from idle to full throttle. Although each engine differs a bit,
most of the engines here run best with the low speed needle less than one
full turn out from the fully closed position. A good start point for the low
speed needle ( also known as the idle screw ) is 0.75 to 1 turn out from
fully closed (turned in ). Do this adjustment with the throttle fully
closed. To adjust the low speed needle, the high speed needle must bet set
first. First set your high speed needle for max rpm, then back it out a few
clicks ( approx 300 to 400 rpm ) to avoid running too lean at full throttle.
When it is adjusted correctly, then let the engine settle into a slow idle
for about 40 to 60 seconds. Now pinch the fuel line. 1) If the engine quits
almost right away, it is too lean, turn the low speed needle out
(anti-clockwise ) approx 1/8th of a turn and repeat the test. 2) If the
engine speeds up significantly when the line is pinched, it is too rich,
turn the low speed needle in ( clockwise ) approx 1/8th of a turn, and
repeat the test. The correct setting is where the engine speeds up for only
a few seconds and then quits. When adjusted correctly it should idle
reliably, and will have very good transition to full throttle. Once the low
speed needle is set, just double check the high speed needle again. It
should be close to perfect.

Prop choices : fun flyers - try 11 x 5 or 11x6. For 3D try an APC 12.25 x
3.75. For faster sport flying try 10 x7 or 10 x 8. For a racer (such as
Great Planes Viper) try an APC 9x10 - awesome ! !

This engine is a honey. I find that they seem to settle down after approx 10
to 15 tanks of fuel.

Also :check for fuel line leaks, fuel tank position problems ( tank too high
? ? usually in inverted engines ), leaking remote needle valve (slip some
fuel tubing over it if it leaks.), and seal the muffler segments with
"Loctite sleeve retainer".

Hope this helps.

A lot of people have commented that the ASP engines were designed to fly on LO nitro.
The BEST fix is a bit of work, but is to add an extra head gasket. You can also try a cooler plug also try running it with 2 plug gaskets tightened down well. that reduces the compression slightly. [email protected]

ASP update: Eyeguy is right! Have about 9 tanks of fuel run through the engine now and its settled down. Its very reliable, easy to adjust like my OS engines and the power is way up. I am using 10% nitro same as for my other engines. Hauls the Tiger 2 arond really fast! I am going to try a bigger prop now and see what that does.