Break in Engine
#1
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From: newrichmond,
WI
Hi' to everyone:
I have never broke in an engine before.
I built the test stand, does everything look
alright to you folks ?Can I break the engine
in without the nose cone or prop? can I start
and run it with just the nut on ?
The engine is an OS 46 AX .
I have never broke in an engine before.
I built the test stand, does everything look
alright to you folks ?Can I break the engine
in without the nose cone or prop? can I start
and run it with just the nut on ?
The engine is an OS 46 AX .
#3
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My Feedback: (9)
The only thing I see with you test stand is that the tank may be low. You may want to raise it up.
As far as running the motor without propor spinner. That is a huge NO GO. You can get by without the spinner, but you have to have a prop on it. The motor is designed to have a load on it and running without the prop will wind up damaging the motor.
As Geistware said, it would probably be easier to just run the motor on the plane.
hope this helps.
As far as running the motor without propor spinner. That is a huge NO GO. You can get by without the spinner, but you have to have a prop on it. The motor is designed to have a load on it and running without the prop will wind up damaging the motor.
As Geistware said, it would probably be easier to just run the motor on the plane.
hope this helps.
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From: newrichmond,
WI
Ohhhh " why is there engine test stand's on the market for sale ?
Is this just another way to extract money from us , when
all we have to do is bolt the engine to the plane and run it lean ,
for awhile.
Yep' I feel like an idiot if that's the case.
Is this just another way to extract money from us , when
all we have to do is bolt the engine to the plane and run it lean ,
for awhile.
Yep' I feel like an idiot if that's the case.
#5
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Radcom,
I'm sorry if I implied that to you, because that's not what I meant. When you have the plane ready to go it's sometimes easier to break in the motor on the plane. Doing it this way also let's you test your fuel system before flying. It will also give your plane a good "shaking" so that you can make sure all the bolts, nuts, and connections are tight.
But there is nothing wrong with a test stand either. I use test stands to break in a motor when the plane isn't ready yet. So you didn't waste you money at all.
I'm sorry if I implied that to you, because that's not what I meant. When you have the plane ready to go it's sometimes easier to break in the motor on the plane. Doing it this way also let's you test your fuel system before flying. It will also give your plane a good "shaking" so that you can make sure all the bolts, nuts, and connections are tight.
But there is nothing wrong with a test stand either. I use test stands to break in a motor when the plane isn't ready yet. So you didn't waste you money at all.
#6
Hey...
i was in the same area a while ago. I had an old 1968 OS .35 and NEEDED to run it on the bench to figure it out and test it. I determined that it was just too old and too tired to run properly. I decided to get a new TT Pro and built a test bench like you did and just run a few tanks through it so i'd feel better on it's operation. I later put it in the plane and did some trials that way too. I think it is a good idea to do what you are doing... just make sure you get that prop on there.
i was in the same area a while ago. I had an old 1968 OS .35 and NEEDED to run it on the bench to figure it out and test it. I determined that it was just too old and too tired to run properly. I decided to get a new TT Pro and built a test bench like you did and just run a few tanks through it so i'd feel better on it's operation. I later put it in the plane and did some trials that way too. I think it is a good idea to do what you are doing... just make sure you get that prop on there.
#7
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From: newrichmond,
WI
RCKen:
Thank's for your reply,I didn't mean to come on with strong language.
I just wanted to know , if all that work was for nothing.
Most of the stuff I found laying around in the garage,probably less
than 5 buck's material. It's cheaper than buying one.
Anyway the engine is going on an Aresti. Engine inverted.
What problem's do you expect I will have starting an OS inverted engine ?
Thank's for your reply,I didn't mean to come on with strong language.
I just wanted to know , if all that work was for nothing.
Most of the stuff I found laying around in the garage,probably less
than 5 buck's material. It's cheaper than buying one.
Anyway the engine is going on an Aresti. Engine inverted.
What problem's do you expect I will have starting an OS inverted engine ?
#8

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From: Benton,
IL
Hey Radcom, You have purchased a quality engine that can last a long time. Why not just go by the book and break it in on the stand for a few tanks and then fly it rich for the rest of the gallon. If you did not get the manual you can find it on the OS/Tower web sight or right here on RCU with a little searching. Some flyers just start them and fly them and do fine but I just prefer to do the bench break in. You could probably read all night about the different advice on engine break in but I think you really need a little help from someone with a little experience. Once you learn to start and tune your first engine you will see that there is no magic involved but just a little common sense. Safety first around the spinning prop.
Fred
Fred
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From: newrichmond,
WI
Thank's to everyone for your help.
Since I went and built the stand ,I might as well
use it. I'll put the prop and spinner on it ,then run
her lean a couple of tank's.
RCU is a great place and the people are great also.
Later.....
Since I went and built the stand ,I might as well
use it. I'll put the prop and spinner on it ,then run
her lean a couple of tank's.
RCU is a great place and the people are great also.
Later.....
#10
ORIGINAL: Radcom
Thank's to everyone for your help.
Since I went and built the stand ,I might as well
use it. I'll put the prop and spinner on it ,then run
her lean a couple of tank's.
RCU is a great place and the people are great also.
Later.....
Thank's to everyone for your help.
Since I went and built the stand ,I might as well
use it. I'll put the prop and spinner on it ,then run
her lean a couple of tank's.
RCU is a great place and the people are great also.
Later.....
I usually break my engines in while fitted to the plane. Does not matter if you use a stand. I just like to run it in the plane cos that way I know if the throttle and fuel systems will work ok.
The 46AX is a fine engine. I have one in a quicke 500. I usually run a tank or two first on the ground (remember to run in a non dusty area) then fly the plane leaning slightly every tank. Don't be in a rush to lean to early. About 6 to 8 tanks should be enough.
#11
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ORIGINAL: Radcom
RCKen:
Thank's for your reply,I didn't mean to come on with strong language.
I just wanted to know , if all that work was for nothing.
Most of the stuff I found laying around in the garage,probably less
than 5 buck's material. It's cheaper than buying one.
Anyway the engine is going on an Aresti. Engine inverted.
What problem's do you expect I will have starting an OS inverted engine ?
RCKen:
Thank's for your reply,I didn't mean to come on with strong language.
I just wanted to know , if all that work was for nothing.
Most of the stuff I found laying around in the garage,probably less
than 5 buck's material. It's cheaper than buying one.
Anyway the engine is going on an Aresti. Engine inverted.
What problem's do you expect I will have starting an OS inverted engine ?
1. Getting the fuel tank properly set for the carb. The tank needs to be lined up with the center (spray bar ) of the carb. An inverted engine almost always has the fuel tank too high.
2. I STRONGLY suggest a remote glow starter. I get "very nervous" sticking my hand under a running engine to remove the glow starter.
3. With the engine inverted, the glo plug tends to get (and stay ) wetter than with the engine upright or sideways. You will probably need to use the power panel for the glow ignitor. You can crank the voltage up to around 3 volts if needed to keep the plug hot, where the "hot shots" are only 1.2 volts.
#12
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From: newrichmond,
WI
Thank's everyone,I follow your advice.
I got another question.
Can you put the plane on your flight box stand
upside down and start the engine that way?
Than once it's started flip the plane back over
and tune it out. It would seem to me that would
elinmiate the inverted engine problem.
I got another question.
Can you put the plane on your flight box stand
upside down and start the engine that way?
Than once it's started flip the plane back over
and tune it out. It would seem to me that would
elinmiate the inverted engine problem.
#13

My Feedback: (1)
No. Don't run the engine on the field stand. It will in no way support the engine at full throttle.
Secure the plane using some sort of a tie-down that holds the plane in place on the ground or use a flight bench that has uprights that go in front of the wings. Then use something in the rear to hold the back end down (bungy cords loosly wrapped around but tight enough to hold the aircraft down...will work). As someone said, run it rich not lean, at full throttle for about 20 to 30 seconds then throttle down for about 10 seconds then back up at full and rich.. continue the cycle until you have burned about three tanks of fuel.
Flying it without breaking it in chances a dead stick at an inopportune time so its best to do it on the ground.
The above is simply a way of breaking the engine in. Sport Aviator on-line magazine has an article devoted to this and is well worth the read.
www.masportaviator.com
Secure the plane using some sort of a tie-down that holds the plane in place on the ground or use a flight bench that has uprights that go in front of the wings. Then use something in the rear to hold the back end down (bungy cords loosly wrapped around but tight enough to hold the aircraft down...will work). As someone said, run it rich not lean, at full throttle for about 20 to 30 seconds then throttle down for about 10 seconds then back up at full and rich.. continue the cycle until you have burned about three tanks of fuel.
Flying it without breaking it in chances a dead stick at an inopportune time so its best to do it on the ground.
The above is simply a way of breaking the engine in. Sport Aviator on-line magazine has an article devoted to this and is well worth the read.
www.masportaviator.com
#15
Actually most of the guys with the inverted engines start them with the plane inverted and then carefully turn the plane right side up. 4 strokes aren't bothered as much by inverted running. If I had a plane that needed an inverted engine I would look at one of those. Meantime I just stick to planes that have upright or sideways mounting. I agree with breaking in the engine on the plane. The break in period may help you catch other problems with the plane if there any. I was assisting a new guy to break in his engine when we lost control of the throttle. I pinched the fuel line to kill the engine so we could check the problem. The servo tray wasn't glued in properly and it had vibrated loose! Nice to find the problem before the plane took off.
#16

My Feedback: (1)
Hi Winger.
Regarding the Midwest Aerobat, I love that plane. I also have a Tiger 60 which is a very forgiving plane but the Aerobat keeps me on my toes because it is faster than the Tiger 60 which makes landings a tad faster. I found that I have to 'fly' it into the landing rather than gliding it in at idle.. needs a few clicks of throttle until just before touchdown when I go to idle. The Tiger 60 will pretty much glide in at idle after turning from base to final.
Other than that, it is very capable, doing just about all the aerobatic maneuvers that I am capable of and lots more in the hands of the club experts, who, by the way, also love to fly it.
I used the trike landing gear. I am going to switch over to tail dragger. It comes capable of both (the mounting hardware is on the aircraft already so all I have to do is move the mains to the alternate mounting and add the tail wheel, remove the nose gear (which are typical nose gear.. crappy..). We have a grass field with the usual lumps and bumps. The nose wheel does not hold up very well and tends to bend backwards after several landings. The tail dragger would aleviate that problem so I am going to switch over this week.
Engine wise, the OS 46 ABX is plenty of power for that plane. With the proper propellor, 11-5 or 11-6, it will go vertical and actually accelerate at full throttle, and climbs straight.
Thanks for asking.
Dick.
Regarding the Midwest Aerobat, I love that plane. I also have a Tiger 60 which is a very forgiving plane but the Aerobat keeps me on my toes because it is faster than the Tiger 60 which makes landings a tad faster. I found that I have to 'fly' it into the landing rather than gliding it in at idle.. needs a few clicks of throttle until just before touchdown when I go to idle. The Tiger 60 will pretty much glide in at idle after turning from base to final.
Other than that, it is very capable, doing just about all the aerobatic maneuvers that I am capable of and lots more in the hands of the club experts, who, by the way, also love to fly it.
I used the trike landing gear. I am going to switch over to tail dragger. It comes capable of both (the mounting hardware is on the aircraft already so all I have to do is move the mains to the alternate mounting and add the tail wheel, remove the nose gear (which are typical nose gear.. crappy..). We have a grass field with the usual lumps and bumps. The nose wheel does not hold up very well and tends to bend backwards after several landings. The tail dragger would aleviate that problem so I am going to switch over this week.
Engine wise, the OS 46 ABX is plenty of power for that plane. With the proper propellor, 11-5 or 11-6, it will go vertical and actually accelerate at full throttle, and climbs straight.
Thanks for asking.
Dick.
#17

My Feedback: (1)
I have an Evolution 40 that really likes to be run on it's side rather than upright. Transitions from idle to full when upright tend to hesitate (I know... needle valve adjustments needed here) but it runs great on it's side on the Wildstick 40 so I keep it that way.




