I guess I'm concerned about anything my LHS told me after that steel clevis advise they gave me.
A while back when choosing fuels at the LHS I went with Coolpower 15% synthetic fuel. One thing he told me was I did not need afterburn oil using synthetic fuel. Is this true?

It's true, you don't need afterburn, or after run , oil with coolpower. However, you should always run the fuel out of your engine when you are finished for the day. This should be done while the engine is still hot and with the glow plug ignitor on so you can start it a couple more times to make sure you got it all.

The way I do it is to drain the tank after the last flight. If I can get to the carb I just disconnect the fuel line, attach the glow clip and flip it through several starts. If I can't get to the fuel line, I start it, move behind the plane, pick it up and point it nose down till the engine stops.

Note, if you're going to leave the plane sitting for a while before the next flying session it's a good idea to add some after run oil to protect the bearings and prevent the castor from gumming up.

It couldn't hoit.

If you want to save a little $ in the long run, use two drops of Dextron III transmission fluid instead of the after-run oil. An especially cheap alternative if you already have a quart on hand (two lifetime's supply).

I was going to type an answer, but Piper_chuck did it for me. Gotta ditto his advice. [sm=thumbup.gif]

Thanks. I knew about running the engine out but I just needed to know for sure on the oil.
Another scenario: Ummm, lets say my firewall and engine are laying 10 feet away from my plane after I quite flying for the day. Anything short of attaching it to a test stand I can do to get the fuel out?

First, I recommend avoiding that condition. Take the plug out, aim the plug hole away from anything you like and turn the motor over with the electric starter for a few seconds. Any fuel should come out of the plug hole. Put a couple of drops of oil in the carb and in the plug hole (I said drops). Reinstall plug, turn engine over by hand a couple of turns slowly. If you want, you could then turn it a little (couple of seconds) with the starter but it isn't absolutely needed. Be sure to hold engine firmly or better yet clamp down somehow.

I guess from what you read above, Skynard Man, the overall concern is long term storage, non-use (over the winter months, I guess for those of us that don't fly in 20 degree winter weather[:@][:@] is to use a little after run oil to make sure the water (moisture.. alcohol which is the primary ingredient of our glow fuel tends to absorb water) is offset by something that will coat the parts and prevent any rust from forming. During the short times between flights in the flying season, what has been recommended should work just fine. Primary, just drain the fuel and run it dry at the end of the day. I guess I would still add a couple drops of after run oil, what can it hurt.

The first thing you're going to have to do is make sure no dirt got in the carb. It's important to NOT turn the engine over if there's any chance dirt got inside. If it did, you'll need to do some disassembly, when you get home, to see if it got in the engine. That's a subject for another thread, in fact, it's been recently covered in the engine forum.

Some engines have the ability to retain fuel (alchohol) after you run them dry, unless it is really hot. The problem with glow fuel is that the methanol fuel absorbs ambient moisture, so if there is any at all left laying in the bottom of the engine it will saturate itself with ambient moisture and leave rust causing water inside the engine.

Since fuel is drawn through the rear bearing, the rear bearing is the most susceptable (two stroke engine of course) to rusting. It is strongly suggested that you apply after-run oil after you think you have gotten all of the fuel out of the engine, then leave the glow igniter on and hit it with the starter again. You may be surprised that the engine will fire and spin a little. This is because the AR oil has displaced some of the fuel laying around and pushed it on up the ports from the crankcase into the cylinder. If you do this a couple of times you won't have to worry about replacing bearings.

If you are tight on money, you can go to either Pep Boys or another auto supply place and buy some Risolone and air tool oil and mix them about 50/50. These two oils have great coating and rust inhibiters. Like the gent said before, you'll have enough to last a life time. Four strokes are not as susceptable to this, since their fuel mixture/airflow takes a different route. They are also much more difficult to get oil into, since the carb is on the back. Most of us put a piece of fuel tubing on the crankcase vent and put oil into them through it. This is often the only way, when the engine is enclosed in a cowl.

Happy landings.

I see quite a few comments above that I take issue with. First off, anytime you use an alcohol fuel or any fuel with nitro in it, you will always benifit from using after run oil, not just a drop or two but about a teaspoon full in the crankcase whether a 2 stroke or 4 stroke (of course you must put the oil in the breather tube on a 4 stroke, into the exhaust or carb will do little good). Any residual alcohol will attract water--i.e. rust-- and any nitro residue will tend to form an acid which can do a nice etching job on the innards of your engine. If you are using just a drop or two of after run oil, you are only deluding yourself as to any help you are giving the engine. Use Rislone (in the yellow container) or ATF (automatic transmission fluid) for an economical after run oil. Any air tool oil will also work well. While Marvel Mystry Oil is better than nothing, it is not as good as Rislone or the other air tool oils, especially for long storage.

I use Cool Power 15% and while I don't advocate this, here's what I do:

After the last flight of the day I drain the tank (With a fuel pump), then I put the airplane back in my car... Sometimes I wipe the oil off it if it has a 2-stroke.

Then I go home.

I run the engine again the next time I go to fly it.

Like I said, I'm not going to say everyone should do this, but I never do anything special, and all of my engines run great with no rust.

Same way I do it.

Well that clears that up for meLOL

I meant I do it like Minn said.

I do exactly what Minn says and also have never had a problem. I use Wildcat 20/20 in all of my glow engines

Bruce, I ment the different opinions.
Since I try too get in the air alot I will keep going the way I am. No oil.

I do fly a minimum of once a week year round unless it is raining. Doesn't really give the bad things much time to happen. I also rotate thru my various planes so everything flies at least once per month. That way all of the radios/batteries/engines are kept happy.

I do the same as Minn and the others. Use Cool Power 15%. Never had a problem at all.