What is a good replacement for a solder clevis? I'm assembling a 4* arf and I don't think I want to use the equipment supplied for the ailerons (solder clevis). I have a pushrod that is threaded only at one end. My idea is to use a z-bend to connect to the servo arm and then a threaded clevis to attach to the aileron torque rod. I think this should work, but does anyone have other suggestions?

How about other hardware upgrades (I'm upgrading the tailwheel).

what you are doing is one of the best methods,you can get a 220/440 whichever applies die and thread the other ends,solder ends aren't a bad idea either just sand the ends to solder and they are pretty much on there until you heat them and take them off again.i have never had a solder end come loose.check at dubro web sight and also look at tower hobbies sights there are a lot of different of clevises and types

Don't discount using the solder clevis. It is simple, easy, cheap and reliable.. All you really need is a good flux, iron and solder..Fred123[&:]

I prefer l bends and EZlinks myself. Cheep and it works.

My idea is to use a z-bend to connect to the servo arm and then a threaded clevis to attach to the aileron torque rod.

IMO, that's the absolute best method of connecting a linkage. You should never need more adjustment than the single threaded clevis provides, and the Z bend makes a connection that has no slip and absolutely won't come apart.

That being said, there's nothing wrong with solder clevises, provided you use a couple of tricks when assembling them. Roughen the rod with sandpaper and use a rotary tool or file to cut crosswise grooves in the rod where the clevis will attach. Use a good rosin core solder and a HOT tool, like a Weller gun. Don't use a soldering iron. Make sure the joint is bright and shiny and DO NOT move it until it's completely cooled.

Dr.1

Since you don't want to use solder clevises then Dr1Driver is completely right, Z-bends are the best way to make the connections because the simply can't come lose from the servo arm. While L-bends are ok, they can still cause you problems. The keepers on an L-bend can still pop off and then the control rod can come out. Some people get lazy about doing the z-bends because they are "too hard" to do, but if you take a few minutes practicing on a scrap piece of rod you will be bending them like a pro.

Hope this helps.

Ken

I have a four * 40 that I converted from single aileron to dual ailerons (built up the compartment at almost the aileron center line on both sides) and have been flying it that way for almost a year now. Great control and no slop and provides Flaps (as though they are needed on the Four *). I used the single bend at the servo with one of those nylon clip gizmo's from Dubro and a Dubro heavy duty clevis (2-56).

I have never used solder but that does not qualify that as an answer... I just never used them, but I imagine that they would hold pretty good. The only thing is you have adjustment somewhere and the threaded clevis seems to be the logical point.

Dick,
I didn't' say it in my previous post because anthof stated he wanted to get away from solder clevises, but I prefer them. I always put the solder clevis at the servo and then I use threaded clevises at the control surface. You were absolutely right, doing it this way give you a great way of adjusting the control rod. If you make a good solder joint when you put it together it'll never come loose. IMHO it's the strongest way of doing it. I prefer these over z-bends because you can remove the control rod from the servo horn without having to take the servo horn off.

Hope this helps.

Ken

Ken: 100% agreement. As an electronics type, I have 'soldered' many many times and know how to do it, so anything I would solder would be permanent, well, almost, I could un-do it but you know what I mean.

My instructor is 100% against Z bends and prefers that capability to secure one end and adjust the other. I often use the L bend with a 'keeper' of sorts (2-56 EZ links from Dubro) that hold the L bend on the servo arm then use the adjustable clevis on the torque arm. They seem to work just fine for me now, but I can imagine that the solder links are equal, if not better, than the L bend. I also slide a piece of fuel tubing over the clevis to make sure it does not open during flight. Dubro also makes a clevis with a slide-on snap that keeps them closed. I use those but (ha.. safety conscious I guess) also use a small piece of tubing... just for those warm fuzzy's I guess.

There are many ways to go, but I think your way is probably the safest and most secure, provided one knows how to solder!!

DS.

I always use Z-bends at the servo arm and threaded clevis at the control horn. I am good at electrical soldering but for some reason, I can't seem to get a good mechanical solder joint. I think it is probably the soldering iron I use. Regardless, I still prefer the combination that I use. To me, it is the best of all worlds.

I also agree with Ken, in my opinion, Zbends can and often do cause problems especially as time progresses. To often the hole the Zbend goes thru is wallowed out and gets excessive slop which can lead to flutter problems. Best solution is ball joints with good clevises second choice.

Be REALLY careful of threading the other end. Most commercial pushrods use rolled threads rather than cut threads - what this means is that the base material of the rod is thinner than the highpoints in the thread. (Material is displaced from the thread trough to make its peaks.) As a result, if you use a die to cut threads in one of these rods, the peaks in the threads are not nearly as high as they should be, and its ability to retain the clevis will be severely compromised.

A second thing to think about if you use threaded connectors on both ends (even if you do it the 'good' way of soldering on a threaded connector) - you had better make extra sure that you use lock-nuts and loctite on the ends, otherwise the pushrod can unscrew itself. Vibration causes the rod to rotate, which will make the rod screw deeper into one clevis while unscrewing from the other. If it can do that far enough, it pulls out of one clevis altogether. More than one really nice model has been lost in this way.

Gordon

Amen to Gorden's comments regarding threading one end of a control rod. One of our club members did that very thing and the clevis came off on the first flight and resulted in the destruction of a brand new plane.

DaveB

i would bet that the soldering iron you are using is not enough power try a 60 watt or higher iron. 100 or 200 if you will be soldering landing gear. i never solder on a circuit board myself. I'm to heavy handed and slow and build up to much heat. that being said i do solder wires together fine along with solder clevis'. and have never had a problem just keep me out of receivers or anything like that.

The only reason I didn't want to use the solder clevis is because I heard that they are prone to failure. However, it seems like you guys have had nothing but success with them so maybe I'll try them out. Thanks for the help and suggestions!

Anthony

I'm a solder clevis fan myself. Though I use Z bends regularly when I'm too cheap to go to the hobby shop. I like the clevis because getting a "perfect" Z-bend in just the right place can be a bit of a challenge. To prevent the clevis from opening up, I use the standard trick of slipping a small piece of fuel tubing over the clevis to hold it shut. Don't fear the solder clevis, follow the soldering tips the others have given and you will be fine. Me? I use steel wool, solder flux, and rosin core solder. I've never had a clevis let go, even under some pretty wicked impacts.

Anthof, I believe solder ends are only prone to failure if they were improperly attached in the first place. I only use "ring" type ball links such as Dubro or captive bearing links like MK and milled threaded ends that are soldered on. Ball links are sooooo much nicer than z-bends or even a clevis. The only exception is when I use carbon fiver push rods or pull-pull cables, they obviously aren't soldered on to anything. I've used soldered ends on small (40-60) sized, to 2M competition ships and 35%+ aerobatic planes, including high speed planes that do over 300MPH. Thousands of flights. I've snapped a few rods, but not a single solder joint failure. Like others have posted, get everything clean first, remove any oxidation, use flux and good heat. Let the solder to wick in on it's own and then don't move the joint until the solder solidifies. I have had good success with a low powered iron (~25W), but then again I have a knack for soldering. Like others have posted, you may find a higher powered iron or gun easier to use. While not as nice as ball links, z-bends do the job.

As for tail wheel assemblies, for smaller planes up to 120 sized, I'm personally partial to the listed sullivan assembly. I tend to modify the tiller part a bit, but it works good stock. I like it because all the load is sent into a flat assembly that bolts to the fuse, which seems to distribute shock loads better that some other tail wheel assembly designs.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV46&P=7

Lightfoot what solder are you using?i use a propane torch turned down low,plus a holding tool

I used acid core solder with a propane torch turned down low or a soldering gun. I don't know the wattage of the soldering gun. Maybe if I were to practice some, I could get the hang of it but I don't do it very often so I guess I have not developed a knack for it.

Regular electrical rosin core solder will work fine. If you do use acid core or acid flux, be sure to thouroughly scrub the finished joint very well or you will soon have lots of corrosion at the joint.

Ditto with Rodney. Rosin core electrical solder is what I use. Plenty strong. What is nice about the electrical solder is that it is available in small diameters, which makes it much easier to control and apply IMO. I believe the stuff I have is under or around 1mm, got it at radio shack. Much nicer than working with the plumber solder. The large acid core stuff is so big it tends to push parts out of alignment during application. Cheers