ok guys i am about to plug a hole in my fire wall. i have everything that is needed i am jsut not sure if i should use epoxy or CA. Which would you use?


thanks in advane

What caused the hole, where is it and how big is it?

i drilled the throttle linkage hole to low so i am going to drill a new one higher. the hole is perfectly round and i am going to use dowel stock to fill the hole. the dowel stock fits perfect

Sounds good.. I'd use epoxy as it lessens the chance of residue getting into the tank compartment.. It would also be a good time to fuel proof it if thats not already done.

Could just fill it with a dab of epoxy but the dowel would be a nice touch. Non-structural. A piece of tape on the back to avoid dripping and a drop of epoxy would fill the hole. Either way fine.

to fuel proof the firewall i would just cover it in epoxy right?

Thats what I did.. Some suggest thinning the epoxy but I don't have a clue how or to what degree...

Take a dime size bit of mixed epoxy and use 5 or 6 drops of isophryl (rubbing) alcohol and mix it really well. That should be close enough to do the average 46 size firewall

I would do just as you said, put a piece of dowel in the hole with epoxy. Smear some of the epoxy over the end of the dowel to seal the end grain. Finally do as bubbagates described to fuel proof the firewall.

Eventually you will want to coat both sides of the firewall, the engine bay and the tank area. Keep the epoxy out of the blind nuts.

I have a Thunder Tiger Trainer 40. I had a fuel tank leak and it drained all inside the fuselage before I caught it. I had to tear off the bottom of the fuselage to clean it out and replace the bottom sheeting. I agree that the tank area should be fuel proofed also.

A small (fuelproofed) hole in the bottom of the tank area would also let a fuel drain off quickly withour migrating into other areas of the plane. Fuelproof any exposed wood that may contact fuel/oil.

I`M WITH MOST GUYS` AND YOUR SELF. MIX JUST ENOUGH 5 MINUTE epoxy TO SECURE YOUR DOWEL.LET CURE.SAND FLAT. THEN SEAL WITH EPOXY REDUCED AT ABOUT 40%OF YOUR ALREADY MIXED,2 PART EPOXY THE WEIGHT ISN`T MUCH OF AN ISSUE HERE BECAUSE THE ALCOHOL ACTS ONLY AS "VEHICLE"TO DRIVE THE EPOXY"DEEP"IN TO THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO BE PROFESSIONAL.LET CURE,SCUFF SAND WITH 22O GRT.SAND PAPER, AND APPLY ANOTHER COAT OF EPOXY MIX AT 50% A SECOND TIME.REMEMBER THE ALCOHOL WILL EVAPORATE AWAY AND WILL NOT ADD TO WEIGHT OF THE EPOXY AT ALL.ONE STEP FURTHER WITH A QUICK COAT OF PAINT TO MATCH THE FUSE.AND IT WILL BE JUST SHY OF BULLET-PROOF AND LOOK REAL NICE TO BOOT!!! FLY for NOW !!!!!! DAVE B. p.s. use an appropriate size paint brush to really "push" product in to that wood then you can clean brush with alcohol and use that alcohol to"reduce"the next batch (2`nd coat)of epoxy that type of fire-wall job will likely outlast the plane

Carve a dowel or piece of hardwood to fit the hole. Drip thin CA around it and sand flush.

Dr.1

Do not use rubbing alchohol to thin epoxy, to much water in rubbing alchohol, sometimes as much as 50%. Use denatured alchohol instead if you must thin the epoxy. I never thin it, especially if I want the strength, as it will weaken the chemical bonds, a better way is to use mild heat to thin it.

sorry .meant to say isopropyl alcohol it`s 99% pure and you`re bang on about the water you can get it at the drug store They keep it behind the counter here in Canada because of illegal drug manufacturing . D.B.

Use epoxy, it'll be fine.