Does anyone have any secrets on beveling 30 deg angels to ailerons, rudder and elevator? Think I ruined a set of ailerons trying to get the bevels straight. I tried to mark a center line down the middle but sanding them to 30 deg, and keeping straight is a bit much.

Great Planes makes a beveled sanding block.

I rough cut the control surface with a great planes razor plane, and then I use a sanding block to finish up. I machined a piece of aluminum and use sticky back sandpaper make sure both sides are even. You could use a wood block and manufacture your own block to sand the material away to creat the perfect edge. Remember to slot your first before beveling.

Just read a tip for building Sig SE's, also works for others... Instead of sanding off a bevel, just get a triangle piece of balsa stock and cut and glue on. Perfect 45 degree bevel done in a few seconds.

I agree with the triangle stock or if you have a drill press or router or router arttachment for your dremmel you can cut them with a bevel bit with the degree of your choice.

The plans/ instructions I building from (4 * 60) don't say to slot first. I've already got the bevel on the rudder and elevator. I will be using a GP slot maker to create, will it still work?

Actually the plans call for the slots to be added after the wings, and tail are covered.

I normally draw the centerline , cut the slot for the hinge and then bevel the edge. But you could cut slots after the bevel. It doesn't matter, it is more of a matter of preference.

Thanks for the input. Appreciate it.

Wondering though, if you add a triangle stock by gluing it to the leading edge, won't you be making the ailerons or whatever, bigger than the plans call for?

Just use a piece of sandpaper, double it up and sand the surfaces round. Put the hinges in the middle, and when you are ready to cover,. seal the hinge joint with your covering. As long as the surfaces are free to move, it is not that big of a deal whether you have 30 40 or 26 degrees of bevel. What is important, is that you seal the surfaces- Just cover it regularly and fly it, then seal the surfaces and fly it you WILL notice a big difference.

Jetts

Triangle stock will work on TE or LE that are not tapered. If your TE is tapered you will need to shape the bevels by hand. The easiest way to do this is to lay out your hingle location first. Strike a center line down both TE and LE, locate your hinge holes and drill or slot as necessary.
Use a protractor to transfer the angle needed onto the end of the LE or TE. I like to leave a 1/16-1/8" width at the hingle line where the two surfaces meet. Once you draw your angles on both ends you can either cut the bevel with a band saw or a razor plane. Clean up the bevel with a sanding block. Temporarily install a couple of hinges and line up your LE and TE so they are centered in relationship to the control surface. It is helpful to mark the center on the end of the control surface. Align the LE and TE and glue them in place. This ensures that your moveable surface is aligned with the fixed surface.

You mentioned "SEAL" the surfaces. I'm not sure what you mean. Could you explain further? Thanks.

You seal the hinge line by ironing a strip of covering into the hinge line groove. You need to only seal one side. Fully flex the control surface while ironing to eliminate any binding. Some people use clear package tape instead of covering.

I sealed some of my sport planes, but never really noticed much of a difference. Even did a before and after with my Ultra Stik and noticed nothing. Some say it helps to avoid flutter so I do it routinely for that reason.

Slotting before or after doesn't matter really.

As far as how to sand the bevel, I use a home made block that is about 1/2" shorter than a sheet of sandpaper. Cut a sheet to width, and spray glue it on, then turn up the 1/4" excess on each end.

Next, The trick I use for drawing the centerline is this... Lay the control surface on your building board, or other flat surface. Lay a pen next to it. If the pen doesn't come to the approximate center, put some flat scraps under it until it does. (Note: it does NOT have to come to the exact center, just close)

Now, keeping both pen, and control surface flat against the table, draw a line. Then, flip the control surface over and repeat.

The end result is two lines with a gap in the middle. the gap is your "Centerline".

Now, holding the control surface along the edge of the table, sand LENGTHWISE along the edge while holding the sanding block at the angle you want. Sand down to the top-most line of the two while constantly checking that you aren't sanding too much (or not enough) in any particular area.

This sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. But I have yet to try any gizmo that does it quicker, easier, and better.

Who knows, maybe that will be great Planes next cool tool to go along with their hinge slotter and Balsa Plane.

MinnFlyer,

Thanks for the help. I love the cool pics you post. Very helpful.

Can you post one of your sanding block?

MinnFlyer,

Great Planes has a center marking tool already

Yea, I know. I have used them. All those things do is dent up your balsa. And I don't mean where it's supposed to dent it, I mean where the little "guide fingers" slide along the top and bottom of the surface.

Besides, I hate to buy something that I don't need, especially when it's something that only has one use, and is so small that I can never find it the one time I need it.

BTW, here's the sanding block.

I agree! MinnFlyer not only has nice drawings, he is one of the best guys ive noticed on here for information........Hats off to you , and many thanks

Too each his own, I use mine a lot and like it. Although, as you say it does have a tendancy to dissapear just when you need it