I have used the windex method with mixed results. It works ok if the second color is not a large section. (i.e. trim lines & shapes)

I have a method that works extremly well for me expecially over open areas. Get yourself a large section of glass (my piece is a windshield out of an old school bus), tape the edges for safety. Lay out the monokote pattern for the whole wing panel allowing a 5mm joint for seaming. Lay the first color down and smooth it to the glass. Lay the second color down on top of the first allowing a 5mm seam and smooth out.

Now comes the tricky part. Take a monokote trim iron (the small one) and start seaming the seam. Start in the middle and work out to the ends. Don't drag the iron along the seam as it will cause wrinkling. I start by just placing the iron on the inside portion of seam and rolling the iron to work out air to the edge. Then pick up the iron and do the next inch. after all of the seam is done, go back and reiron the entire length of the seam. Look at the seam at an angle to the light and you can see if it is completly bonded.

Then remove the complete panel from the glass (lifting perpindicular to the seam) and install to wing panel. If you seamed correctly, you can stretch the monokote with no fear of the seams seperating.

I have done multiple colors (4) in very complex patterns with exellent results. After shrinking with heat gun you get a bubbleless mirror finish including seams. I have covered 8 different airplanes using this method.

To use windex for applying a Monokote overlay, all you have to do is...

1. Cut out your overlay piece,
2. Make sure the base Monokote layer is clean and dust-free,
3. spray the base layer with windex,
4. Peel the backing from the overlay and lay the overlay piece over the base layer,
5. Position the overlay where it needs to be,
6. Squeegee any bubbles and as much moisture as you can out from under the overlay,
7. Let it dry -- at least overnight,
8. Seal it (using a COOL Monokote iron or by running solvent around the edges).

A couple things... First, until it's dried, you can peel it off and reposition it, so mistakes don't really matter. Second, you can use water with half a drop of liquid dish detergent instead of windex. Third, a scrap of balsa sheet makes a nice and resonably soft squeegee. Start sqeegee-ing it down in the middle and gradually, carefuully work your way outward. Fourth, if you use the iron, it should be heated just enough that the adhesive side of a scrap of Monokote sticks to it... not enough to shrink the covering at all. Otherwise the Monokote will emit a gass that will gather as ugly bubbles under your overlay.

Some do.

Personally, I tried using their solvent just around the edges of some trim and I now don't use it for two reasons:

1) It seemed to take a long time (if ever) for the covering's adhesive to stop being gooey, and

2) I've had enough chemistry and biology to be strongly repelled by the odors or toluene, zylene, and similar strongly reactive aromatic hydrocarbons such as the solvent contains.

With water or water-based stuff like windex, the piece is dry the next morning and my life expectancy is virtually uneffected.

Here's my bit..

I'm quite fond of the glass method as described above. I've created a few 'organic' color schemes (you can do curves, etc..) with some great results.

just remeber your 'layering' order. remeber to build/layer from the tail forward. that way, you don't have any seams facing forward, that will 'pull' as air passes over them.

A small dispisable paintbrush is handy. Like really small! paint a fine line of trim solvent on the seam. you can also use clear nail polish.

I've also laid covering over covering with mixed results. On solid surfaces, just iron it on. Over open bays, it does get tricky, especially over a wing, like the points on a 'starburst' pattern on a wing. You need to be able to shrink it in place.

here's what some do in this case..
1. cover the wing as normal (base color)
2. cut out the 'decoration' pieces. lay the piece on the wing, and position it.
3. trace the location of teh 'decoaration' piece with a marker.
4. perforate the area with a pin like mad.
This allows teh gasses to escape while ironing, and aloows the covering under the stretch a little faster.

And on a last thought, there is a difference between the coveirings on the market. i find one 'Popular {monokote}' gasses more than the others. Experiment with the dirfferent brands, they all have their own feel and workability.

But just remeber, as with justabout everything in life..
patience and practice.

dr_wogz
www.aerotech-rc.com

If the colors work out... (limited color selection) Towerkote over Monokote. Its lighter, cheaper and works at a lower temp, which creates less gassing.

You have to be sure you've properly shrunk the Monokote before layering this way... Towerkote melts at the shrink temp for Monokote. It will take enough heat to reshrink minor wrinkles from Monokote... but you'll be constantly reshrinking, because if you don't heat Monokote enough, thats when it will sag in the car.

I avoid the pin-***** method. I've seen too many planes done this way where you can see all the pinhole locations through the second color... VERY bad effect. Better to put the second color on at the minimal temp to make it tack down smoothly, then just go around the edges to seal them. (that's close to how the ARF's are done... they often skip the sealing step though...)