Hello All,

I have been reading quite a few posts from this forum as I begin to take my first steps into this hobby and I have a few questions that I haven't seen covered yet.

I went out and got the generic Hobbico Nexstar package about two weeks ago and have been practicing religiously on the simulator. I'm sticking all of the landings as well as deadsticks, figure eights and so on. Now of course I want to get the real plane in the air with the help of an instructor and take it from there.

Can you guys give me the best steps to be taken in breaking in a new engine? The manual mentions a few things but I thought everyone here might have better insight into prepping the engine for the first time up.

Secondly, one of my damn cats already knocked over on of my unassembled wing halves and now there is a small hole in the bottom of the wing. I'm going to assume this can be patched without too much trouble.
My goal now is to become good enough to get started on a second plane big enough that I can fly that cat around as payback!!!

Another question I have for the masses is to ask how you progressed into different aircraft. Was it a matter of preference for what your second and third planes were or was it matter of choosing a plane solely to progress your skills.

I know, I know, you must walk before you can run, but advice along the way always is beneficial.

Thanks in advance,

Brad

As far as engine break-in; you'll get lots of advice, so I'm going to leave that alone. The hole in your wing (I'm assuming it's only a hole in the covering, not the wood) can easily be fixed. Just get some clear packing tape, or scotch tape. My trainer has almost as much clear tape on it as it has covering by now. It's a trainer, it's going to get beat up, so just go with the flow.

I just recently purchased my second plane, a Sig Somethin' Extra kit (my first kit ever!). I bought that plane for both of the reasons you mentioned. I like the way that plane looks, and it's a good aerobatic plane that will let me increase my skills beyond what my aerobatic trainer can accomplish.

Good luck with your RC endeavors, and welcome to the addiction/hobby!

Purple Bird,
The instructions that came with the motor should be your bible on how to break it in. Different motors have different break-in procedures, and since you didn't list the type of motor it was there is no way we can tell you how to do it. If you follow the instructions for break-in that came with the motor you can't go wrong. One piece of advice that is pretty much constant for all motors is that after you break it in, keep it running a couple of click rich and the motor will last a long time.

As far as the hole in the covering goes, do as posted above and use a piece of packing tape or scotch tape to patch the hole. Don't worry about the dings and dents, this is a trainer and it's going to get beat up as you learn. Just patch the boo-boos and keep flying!!

The last piece of advice I can offer is don't be afraid to ask questions. Either of your instructor or here on RCU, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.

Hope this helps

Ken

The NexStar engine should have already been broke in at the factory - at least that is what my docs said so check yours to make sure.

Brad,

Welcome to the addiction, err, hobby and RCU

While the simulator is a great source of practice, they are somewhat different than flying the real thing. If you are doing well on the sim it's time to add wind and clouds and stuff to the sim. Also, if you have all the toys installed on your plane, especially the AFS, turn that thing off. It promotes one very bad habit. It's function is to return the plane to upright and level flight. In training that forces you to hold aileron in a turn. The problem is a plane does not "turn" that way. Without the AFS, if you hold the aileron in a turn, you will very quickly find the plane rolled over on it's back and in an inverted dive, not a good thing to be in. If you have it turn on in the sim, turn it off and you'll quickly see what I mean.

You can leave the wing extensions and stall breaks on until you get your first landings in, then remove them, but be prepared for major trim changes afterwards. Once all of these "toys" are removed you will have a totally different plane that actually is fun to fly.

As far as the breaking, follow the OS manual, I have done that with every OS engine I have ever owned and they all run very well. While the paperwork does state that the engine is already "broken in" it may need re-tuned to allow for altitude differences of where you are versus where it was first setup, plus the breakin was most likely done on different fuel. It never hurts to run through the breakin procedure again.

As far as the hole, as Ken said, it all depends

You'll know when you are ready to move to the second plane. A good rule of thumb that I tell my students after solo is this (some are Ken's suggestions, some are my own)

Are you completely comfortable with the plane flying directly at you and can turn the plane in whatever direction you want without much thought.
During your takeoff roll, can you keep the plane reasonably straight.
During your landings, can you have the gear touch down reasonably close to the spot you planned on most every time.
Can you takeoff and land in a crosswind
Can you fly at least 3 patterns inverted and do it without being overly nervous

Now as far as a second plane a good low wing is in order here and there are tons of them. Some of the most popular are

Four Star 40 or 60 from SIG
Tiger2
Super Sportster
SIG Something Extra (On low rates)
World Models SkyRaider series
and a ton of others

There are as many schools of though as there are engines, and everyone has the right to their own opinion. Some will say you need to follow the manufacturer's directions to the letter, others will have their "Never fail" break-in proceedure that may require mixing your own fuel concoctions.

Personally, I run a tankful of fuel throught the engine at about half throttle with the engine running rich.

Then I go flying.

I'll leave it running a few clicks rich for the first three or four flights - maybe even leaning it out a little each time.

But that's about all of the break-in I ever do, and I've got many engines that are many years old and still running great.

First of all...with the Nextstar package, turn the autopilot OFF when actually flying it. It will actually hinder your learning, and make the plane harder to fly. The gyros fight any turning control, and make you have to fight the plane.

The engine manual is NOT a Bible for break-in. I'm not afraid to give advice, because I know what works for me. If your engine is an ABC/ABN type with no ring, use a castor/synthetic oil in your fuel. These engines need to get up to operating temperature to properly break in. Run it only SLIGHTLY rich for 2-3 tanks on the ground, then finish breaking it in in the air, leaning it a little more with each tank. On the ground, at full throttle, briefly pinch the fuel line. If the engine dies immediately, it's too lean. If it runs a while then dies, it's too rich. If it picks up speed a little then dies, it's right.

Use clear packing tape to repair small holes in the covering.

Decide what you want to finally fly. Your airplanes should be a path towards that end. If you want to fly high wing sport or scale, stick with those types of planes. If you want to fly warbirds or other low wing types, low wing sport planes should be in the line. Draw a simple diagram, changing one characteristic at a time, a flow chart of planes.

Hope this helps.

Dr.1

Thanks for the detailed responses. I'm already hooked on all of this and I've only done the sim! Perhaps once I get enough time to even scratch my a** on the weekend, I'll have a chance to get to the local club. That should be in another week...this weekend I'm going to an airshow...full scale planes this time around.

As you had suggested, I've added wind, and all of the other available obstacles to make the sim training as challenging as possible until I actually get up in the air.

I do have another quick question regarding radios and frequencies. For those of you with more than one aircraft, does that mean your using seperate radios for each plane or do you have some that operate off of the same frequency? And how much are you looking at if you need to change a frequency in your controller?

Thanks again for the responses. This forum has a good vibe.

Lastly, my actual goal is to make my second plane an F-18 turbine jet. Yes....that is a joke. In all honesty, I hope to become proficient in aerobatics if I stick with it. One step at time though...one step at time.

-Brad

I just bought the electronics for my second plane (a kit I'm going to build) and I am planning on using the same transmitter I use with my trainer (it has a two model memory). All you have to do is get a receiver that will work with your transmitter. I have a JR transmitter, so my new receiver is a JR compatible Hitec receiver.

I have no idea about changing the frequency of a transmitter. Unless you buy a transmitter that can use various frequencies, I believe it would be pricey to change a transmitter frequency. I say that because, for the change to be legal, it has to be sent in to the manufacturer (if I'm not mistaken).

Kiswa, you are absolutely correct. In the United States it's illegal for you to change the frequency of your transmitter without the radio being retuned (this does not apply to transmitters with channel modules). You can change the frequency of your receiver by simply changing the crystal in it, but if you want to change the transmitter you need to send it in to the manufacturer or repair shop to have it changed.

Ken

Purple Bird... Welcome This is a great hobby.. And you can gain
a lot of insight here and other places!! But it's still better to get in
your face help from fellow club members also!! But as with anything
take all with a grain of salt and use the info to fit you and your style..

All gave great advise... Just follow your engine manual and
you really can't go wrong!!... Well atleast warr. wise I think you
should always lock your throttle in the W.O.T. position after starting
and adjust RPM with the needle valve.. As a few has said you can
run 1 tank of fuel and start to fly with the setting still running rich a
few at the field does it like that and they have no problems.. I my
self like to do at least 3-4 tanks on the bench to give the engine more
time to "set" itself And hopefully limit the amount of deadsticks..

scotch tape does work great to cover those little boo boos... And I
have used it quite a bit... But I still like to cover it with something that
looks closer... So I always pick up a few sheets of the sticky backing
trim/patch sheets from the LHS or online somewhere.. They work
great and for the most part looks a little better... But as most have said
don't worry too much about your trainer... Get practice practice and
more practice

Since your Nexstar came with a radio, thats great... Now you can learn to
fly with it and maybe have a system to train others... But as you progress
with the training/hobby... Think about where you want to go and buy a
"next" radio a few notches above that thought, that way you'll have a radio
that will grow with you. There's a lot of good radios.. But after a while I think
you will find it hard to beat a JR or Fatuba.... I have two Airtronics.. a 400
and a RD 8000... But I'm starting to look at JR's....

Just wanted to add.... Have Fun... Be Safe and enjoy this Great money
grabing hobby....You will love it... Those that foot the bill or otherwise may
think different But where else can you have soooo much oily fun!!