There are plenty of threads about propellors but none I've found answer my question: What are the relative merits of different brands of props - Master Airscrew, APC, zinger, Top FLite, etc. - regardless of the material they're made of - wood, nylon, plastic, etc. For example, are some brands better known for speed or power, are some brands better for sport or scale or pattern, are some brands easier to balance, is wood "better" than plastic, do some brands work better with certain brands of engines, etc? I personally like black Master Airscrew props, just because I think they look better than others, but I'd change if I had a reason to. So I'd appreciate anyone answering my questions or pointing me to a source of[sm=confused.gif] answers.
Thanks,
Bidwin[sm=confused.gif]

Master Airscrew plastic props are best for beginners (relatively difficult to break). Wood is lightest. APC plastic props are probably the best overall performance in many applications, especially racing. Otherwise, it is not that big a deal.

APC props are the item of choice. Master Airscrew even though durable don't produce enough thrust in most trainers off grass runways. Wood easily breaks and doesn't give enough mass to get a good idle on most engines.

The drawback of the APC is the grey color is very difficult to see when running. Be very careful and paint the tips for better visibility.

EXCAP232

I like Master Airscrew for most applications above 8". I routinely overpower my planes somewhat, like using a .61 on a .40-size airframe, for instance, so wringing the last ounce of performance out of it isn't as important as realistic looks and safety to me. However, on .15 & under size airframes, I will only use Cox props...There simply are no more efficient props to be had. Some of the guys fool around with cut-down APCs and such, but you simply can't beat the thrust of a Cox out of the box...

MAS props can take divets out of grass runways and usully not sustain any damge. You can also see them flex out of shape at high revs which makes them less efficient than APC props. APC props are more solid and won't flex therefore put more load on an engine for the same size and pitch than a MAS. I have tried wood props and don't like them. If the prop touches anything, even lightly while the engine is running the prop will instantly break with a loud snapping noise! Re; "Master Airscrew even though durable don't produce enough thrust in most trainers off grass runways."< I have trained a lot of newbies and haven't seen this myself. As long as you use a 10-5 or 10-6 prop for a 40 size engine and an 11-5 or 11-6 prop for a 46 size engine either MAS or APC props will work just fine. I do uggest that new flyers use MAS type for the toughness factor. [8D]

Wood is light & easily manufactured to custom configurations with CNC tooling. It is also a perfect choice for some scale models, it is reasonably stiff, it is easy to modify for various applications, & wooden props come in a very wide range of sizes & pitches. However, it is also fragile & less efficient due to the strength requirement for greater blade thickness, especially at the root. Wood is OK where max performance isn't a requirement & you no longer stub your props on the ground. Examples - Top Flite & Zinger.

Nylon is tough & flexible -- it can stand substantial abuse & remain reasonably functional. Its chief disadvantage is flexibility, requiring thicker blades to minimize distortion -- thick blades mean more drag (parasitic power losses). Distortion also results in power losses as the blades flatten out, or flex out of true. Distortion can mislead a pilot into believing that he is actually getting more power from his engine, as it winds up to greater RPM from blade flattening. Nylon is a great choice for students, due to the toughness. Example - Master Airscrew (MAS)

FRP (fiber-reinforced plastic), or GRP (glass-reinforced plastic) is an engineered composite material that is tailored to the particular propeller application. Its use can result in the thinnest, stiffest & most efficient blades. It is usually a poor choice for students, as a prop-strike will often result in unacceptable damage. Additionally, the very thin, sharp blades can be devastating in an accidental human contact. Examples -- Bolly, APC

As a general statement I usually start out with an APC. Often end up with an APC. However I have done enough prop testing to believe two things: (1) there is a particular prop (maybe more than one) which will work best for a particular engine and airplane, and (2) I'm not as cocky as I used to be about predicting which prop(s) it will be.

Thanks, All, for your replies. [sm=thumbup.gif] I had a Sig 40-LT Kadet with an OS 46-AX that turned an 11x6 MAS prop, and that plane got airborne off grass in probably 20 feet. That combo really performed well, last flights spent trying knife edges which weren't great but were there. I had planned to experiment with various props on it but, unfortunately, a tree jumped up and grabbed it a few days ago. So I'm getting a 40-sized stick and a 70 4-stroke, and I'll try various props on that.
Regards to all,
Bidwin [sm=cool.gif]