sebhitman

Hello guys

I am thinking of buying a FULL kit at Tower hobbies it seems to be the only place around 400$ usd that i can have a plane motor controller & full kit.
(exept Gas)

i need to know those kit needs to be assemble?
right?

they are not like clip on things or coming only without wings ?
I need to glue many parts???

(i think their kits come with glue but theres 2 glue coming with it
does it say anywherehow & where to apply it?) cause if it's well documented ill order it right away.

I would like to have it set up for a pre run before it starts to Snow here.

so it's leaving me 1 month or so.
let me know
thanks!

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Some RTF kits don't need to be glued. The tail sections bolt on, and the wing halves tape together. Personally, I wouldn't fly it this way, I'd glue the wing halves together at the least, and probably put a little epoxy on the tail sections as well. Of course, I didn't when I first started with my alpha RTF, but I would now--knowing what I know!
They say RTF in under 20 min--that's a bit misleading. DON'T FORGET TO CHARGE THE BATTERIES--that takes 16 hours minimum!

sebhitman

thanks for the reply

ill let you know what i was looking for
I want to buy
a plane FULL gas kit from tower hobbys
(ULTIMATE COMBOS)
it has everything to be ready to fly


so you think it won't need glue??
exept if i think so for reinforcement?

let me show you the 2 models maybe it shows more what i waslooking for
it's called
ULTIMATE COMBOS
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=LZ0116**
this one
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=LZ2088**
this one
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLX6
or this one
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=LZ2095**

Let me know
I don't wanna have to Be an expert to set my first one
I want to learn easy way &
Ill go gradually until i buildmy own one.
but i am not at this step.


THANKS FOR YOUR INFORMATION!!!!!!!!!!!!

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Sorry to tell you this, but none of your choices are good for a beginner. You would be better off with one of these:
http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/towa21.html
or
http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...co/hcaa17.html
or
http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...co/hcaa16.html
or
http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...o/hcaa60m.html

Personally, I am not crazy about RTF planes because the components they include are usually just ok. However, if your goal is to be able to fly without gluing anything together, choosing from these should work.

I suggest that you find someone in your area to help you assemble the plane and teach you to fly.

Charlie P.

Even the trainers that bolt-together still need some type of fuel-proofing in the tank compartment and both sides of the firewall. Thinned epoxy for instance.

An SU-31 for a first plane? Oh, you'll be needing a LOT of glue. But not until about 30 seconds into the first flight. And replacenent wood and covering, too. And another engine and prop, a couple servos . . .

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I'm an instructor and I can't even count how many students I've trained over the last 6 years. I've seen a lot of different trainers come through my field. Of the Ready-To_Fly (RTF) that I've come through I think that the Hobbico Superstar is a pretty good bargain. It's $279 at Tower Hobbies [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEKF3**&P=0[/link] , and it comes with plane, motor, and radio. It's a good flying trainer and it's a pretty good bargain. You won't go wrong with it.

Hope this helps

Ken

sebhitman

just ordered one of those right now!!!!
i am very happy

i will only need fuel for it what should i use????
it doesn't come with it. let me know


thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!
i appreciate it big time!

sebhitman

WOW tower hobbies can't ship Gas 10% over to canada...........
huh.... where will i get it?

Avistarpilot

Glad to hear!...I run Sig 10% in my avistar and it runs great. But i want to switch fuels to Byrons when i get this gallon done. I run byrons in my nitro truck and it runs awesome, Byrons is good fuel. Basically you want at least 18% oil in the fuel to be safe(i believe thats right but if not someone please correct me)

more nitro %, more power but runs hotter
less nitro %, little less power and runs a little cooler

thats what i run, but choice is yours. It may be easier if you go to your hobby shop(if there is one around you) and see what they have, that way you dont have to keep ordering it...you can just pick it up.

sebhitman

I just ordered 10% from greathobbies its located in canada next time i will try to buy it at my local hobby store .
let me know if it will run fine .


Champion Fuel 10% - Quart (this is what i bought...)
is it okay?? for the plane i said i bought earlier ??

thanks!

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

You'll need more than just fuel. You'll also need, at a minimum, a glow driver and some rubber bands. With those two items, you should be able to get it into the air. Some other nice things to have, but not necessary, are--field box to keep all of your stuff in, a 12 volt battery and electric starter, and some assorted tools to make field adjustments/minor repairs. There are numerous other things that you will accumulate over the years.

Oh, and also--get an instructor, or your 279 dollars will fade pretty quickly.

bruce88123

PLEASE do not try to fly this without the help of an instructor. It is not as easy as you may think, even if you have used a simulator. Find an instructor, your LHS should be able to help you find one if you don't already know how to do so. The chances of a successful flight without an instructor are small, VERY small. Plus he will be able to give you much advice on tuning and general operation and safety.

Welcome to RC and RCU. Try to enjoy and be safe.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

seb, find your local club and talk to them about getting an instructor (It's free). If you try to do it alone, your beautiful plane will be in splinters very shortly after take-off

Spitfire222

You never specified which plane you ordered, you just said "I ordered on of these right now". We need more details to be able to fully help you.

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

From reading the post, I believe he took RCKen's advice on the tower trainer combo.

LuckyArmpit

Man I hope so!!! A Sukhoi would not be a good 1st choice. Heck, not even a good 2nd plane for most people.

Dave...

sebhitman

http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/towa21.html

this is the plane i Ordered

tell mke what you think


what is those rubber i need ????
i don't get it??

I will need that to fly it??

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Rubber bands hold the wing on. Are you planning on getting an instructor? If not, you're likely to not even get the engine started.

sebhitman

okay so you mean , elastics???

what do you mean not get the engine started?? isnt there instructions???

I will go to my local hobby store to have infos but there must be tutorials online

i am not the type of instructor guy , even tho i need one
i prefer to learn the hard way

i did that for guitar , drums , bass,for 6 years & i had a pro demo out ect....
so once i get at it im pretty much dedicated to it.
& willing to learn

BUT flying isnt those its VERY VERY touchy
its hard if theres wind ect,....
but i just need to get the basics in my mind & i will try my best to get help too....
but i dont think i have instructors near me
i never heard of clubs around my sector..... maybe i am mistaking.....


ill do research....
but is the kit i bought

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

:::Sigh:::

Here we go again.


Seb, when you taught yourself to play the guitar, did you ever hit a wrong note? Sure you did. Did the guitar smash into splinters because toy made a mistake? No.

Same goes for Drums and bass, but airplanes are totally different from playing an instrument, or driving a car. When you play an insturment and make a mistake, you can stop, go back, and correct it.

YOU CANNOT STOP AN AIRPLANE!!!

An airplane will only stop when you either land it, or crash it. Without an instructor, we give most people about 15 seconds from the time they lift off until the time their beautiful, expensive airplane is in little bitty pieces. This is more than a warning - It is a PROMISE!

Think about this... Have you ever played a brand new video game and got all the way through it on the first try? For that matter did you ever make it past the first screen?

Flying is very similar, but when you crash, you can't hit the "Reset" button. You have to spend a LOT of money to buy a new one.

Get an instructor and do it right or send your plane back now and save yourself a lot of moiney

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

And, when you hit a wrong note, did you have to go to the hospital to get your finger sowed back on? A prop won't be as nice as a guitar string, or drum stick!

Here's how you start your engine, in detail:
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
GET AN INSTRUCTOR!!!

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Seb, get an instructor. If you don't, plan on your plane crashing and being damaged/destroyed in about 30 seconds.

Additional things you will need for your RTF:

Glow ignitor
Fuel pump (or other means of getting fuel from the container into the plane )
Glow fuel (10% nitro with an 18% oil is fine)
3' of fuel line
A couple of OS #8 glow plugs
Glow plug wrench
Box of #64 rubber bands (elastic bands)
8" long 3/4" diameter dowel (taped on one end) for starting the engine ("Chicken Stick" )

Extra props (I STRONGLY SUGGEST Master Airscrew 11x5 or 11x6 props. The Master Airscrew props are the black ones and typically have "Windsor" printed on them. A 10" diameter prop is too small for a 46 ball bearing engine)

#1 phillips screwdriver (for servo screws - magnetic tip is a plus)
small flat blade screwdriver (magnetic tip is a plus)
1/2" x 9/16" open end wrench OR a 6" adjustable wrench
6" needle nose pliers
Paper towels for clean up
Some Windex or other cleaner


Nice things to have with you but not needed:

Flight box
Power Panel for flight box
12 volt gel cell battery for flight box and electric starter
Electric starter
Battery checker (voltmeter)
Tachometer
Electric fuel pump
Fuel line of different colors
Long nose bent hemostat
Scotch "MAGIC" tape (for emergency field repairs of tears in the covering)
Medium CA
Some "T" pins

One other thing. Tower 46 engines are very well known for air leaks. If the engine will not run properly after being tuned by a knowledgeable person, the usual places the engine leaks air is the backplate and the "O" ring for the carb. Some silicone normally solves those problems.

Hope this helps.

sebhitman

wow
yes i will try to get an instructor... dont know where to find one tho.
i just hope to find one


so you say i need all of these
Glow ignitor
Fuel pump (or other means of getting fuel from the container into the plane )
Glow fuel (10% nitro with an 18% oil is fine)
3' of fuel line
A couple of OS #8 glow plugs
Glow plug wrench
Box of #64 rubber bands (elastic bands)
8" long 3/4" diameter dowel (taped on one end) for starting the engine ("Chicken Stick" )

hmm how much is the price of these??
i think that i will buy at Hobby in montreal.
so its hard to get it reafy?? & air proplem???

bruce88123

It's not a toy that you can just plop down, crank up and go play with. It is a skill that you will have to learn. If you do not go about it correctly it will be both expensive and dangerous.

Charlie P.

That seems to be less of a problem now than in the past. I have yet to find a recent engine that won't at least run well enough to fly as it comes out of the box, provided you don't drop below a certain RPM. "Ahem" *sounds of soapbox dragging up to screen*. "In my day . . . (this is where you roll your eyes) . . . it took as long to tune the engine to run for several minutes as it does to completely assemble an ARF today. A steady, low throttle and fast transition was something to be proud of and the mark of a good modeler. I suspect the modern CNC machines stay closer to tolerances and the cylinder/sleeves are not as tight from the factory as they once had to be to account for machining variances. It was nothing to go through ten tankfulls on a test stand before the engine would run steady below 3/4 throttle.

(Throttles? Who had throttles? You flew control-line and free flight until you ran out of gas!)

I get compliments because I never fret a dead-stick. That's because for the first two years I flew I would bet 50% of my flights ended with a static prop. Having come from two channel gliders it was no great shakes so I was remiss in seeking help with the engines. When I joined a club I absorbed more knowledge and techniques in the first summer than I had in about 10 years of free-flight, control-line and first miserable untutored R/C attempts. If your engine is running, you've at least got a chance at a wave-off and second attempt. If it konks on take-off, you're toast unless you have a big field and level head.

Anyway, "Yes" the engine will come with instructions. FOLLOW THEM TO THE LETTER. In spite of your first experiences there is a point at which RPM increases or drops as you make slight changes. If you're not noticing that as you turm the needle valve a few clicks or pinch a fuel line then you're probably not at the settings you think you are. Don't try to take shortcuts. 5 minutes at full throttle & rich mix is not equivalent to 45 seconds at some unknown mix. DO NOT TOUCH THE LOW IDLE SCREW UNTIL YOU HAVE A REASON TO. This will be factory set, and you can get it so out of range that the engine will not run with an amazingly small twist. Plan on HOURS of test running before regaining, let alone improving, the tune. Once you develop some experience you will benefit from fine tuning the low-idle.

ALWAYS err on the side of keeping the mix slightly rich.

Someone ought to produce a "Engine Simulator" that will allow you to model a simulated engine and observe the changes and practice techniques. Throw in a random problem that you must diagnose and troubleshoot.