Just wondering what are some good alternatives to CA and how to properly use them?
I've seen some use Titebond and I think I'll give it a try, any tips or suggestions?
It seems that CA tends to get me into more trouble than its worth...

depends on what you are doing....

I don't use CA when I build......excpet for foamies....

I use either epoxy, gorilla glue, or Titebond wood glue, depends on what I am gluing

There are several versions of Titebond. The original (#1) is the best all around glue to use. Titebond #2 and #3 have uses if water resistance is needed (such as flying the plane in your Avitar off water). If I'm in a hurry to get at structure built a very small amount of CA is used to to hold parts in place while the main gluing is done with Titebond. An animal syringe and large bore needle (blunt the tip so you don't stab yourself) is useful for applying small amounts in the correct place. Titebond also produces one of the best polyurethane glues. It doesn't become brittle like some. For large sheeting projects (sheeting foam wings or other parts) it is hard to beat. For laminating parts it's best to avoid water souluable glues like Titebond. Polyurethane is good here as is epoxy. I find the epoxy to be a bit messy however. Contact cements have some uses but there are some that have all the strength of day old chewing gum after a short while. Weldwood is a good one to try. Make sure to try a sample so you don't melt foam or other parts. All Polyurethane glues have a short self life once opened. They set up by chemical reaction with water. Even the moisture in the air is enough to set the process off.

EXCAP232

I love epoxy! Just mix resign with hardener (50/50)

I will use 6 or 7 glues when building a model. It depends what part I am working on. Generally speaking the hardwoods are glued together with epoxy, however I have used the gorilla glue for that with good results. I will use thin and medium CA on various parts of the structure. I will use Pica Gluit, ( white glue ) in areas near the surface of the craft where a sandable glue is needed . RC560 is a good glue for canopies and plastics. Sometimes I might use Ambroid, just for the fumes ! (lol ) The gorilla glue is also a very sandable . Contact cement is used when sheeting foam wings.

Many times , the choice of glues is really a personal preference. Sometimes it is matter of what glue you have on hand at 2 am. Some people are allergic to epoxy. The shelf life of the gorilla glue seems very short. All kinds of factors come into play. The builders experience level is one factor. Time is a factor and patience.

Here is another tid bit. Epoxy doesn't evaporate. Niether does CA. White glue has a bit of water in it. Most of the wieght of white glue is the water and will evaporate as the glue dries. So white glue is lighter than CA or epoxy. However, the careful use of CA will help to keep the weight down also. A few grams here and few grams there. Soon you are talking ounces. 4 ounces makes a huge difference in the way a plane will operate. So using the correct glue and in the right amount is important.

There are a lot of glues we can and do use, as pointed out by previous posters. I tend to keep about 10+ adhesives in my hobby shop. The adhesive I will use for a particular bond will depend upon everything from my mood to what I am bonding to other issues. Often, there is more than one adhesive that will do the job, so a lot is personal preference.

Glue weight is important on planes. However, nearly any glue when used properly will produce a light airframe/wing. When purchasing glue, keep in mind that all glue has a shelf life, typically around 1 year, but this does vary.

Adhesives I use, with my personal preferences in their use. Probably 99% of what I use is polyurethane, epoxy and CA.

Polyurethane – Strong and bonds to nearly any material. This glue can be used very sparingly, but will still make a very strong bond, which I believe makes for a very good strength/weight ratio, but I’ve never tested. It foams when it cures, causing it to work into all the spaces in a joint. It also has a long working time out of bottle in the range of an hour. It sands very easily and cleanly. Low to no odor. My glue of preference for sheeting cores, but I have used for wood airframe bonding, firewalls, etc. Shelf life is about 1 year.

Epoxy – Only about a zillion flavors. The 1:1 mix common to our hobby works good on wood, foam and most composites. I don’t believe this glue is significantly heavier than other glues; however, it is easy to use too much, so care must be taken to clear off excess. Can be thinned with Acetone, MEK, etc. to make a brush on fuel proof coating. Can be mixed with fillers to change properties. My glue of preference when working with composites, and often for wood to wood joints. Because of the wide range of epoxies, thick/thin, high temp, pot times, ability to combine with filler or use as the bonding agent in a composite, this is probably the most versatile glue I use. Shelf life is about 1 year for most epoxies.

CA’s – Different types, but all work about the same. These glues work well, but can be brittle and are difficult to sand. What is nice about the CA family is their quick and/or predictable (accelerator) set time. Because of the speed, for smaller builds I may use CA exclusively. Otherwise I often use CA as a tacking adhesive to set the part, and then use another adhesive, such as epoxy, as the primary bonder. CAs has a very short shelf life. I swear this stuff has a shelf life of about an hour.

Some other lesser used stuff I keep around.

Rosin Wood Glues – I really don’t like the stuff (just my personal preference) so I rarely use it. However, I do keep some around I use for wood to wood bonds. What I don’t like is the slow set speed and sanding issues. The glue will sand, but when used on soft (contest grade) balsa, the glue tends to ball up and gouge out the wood. In general, where others use this glue, I always use polyurethane, epoxy or CA instead. Shelf life is about 1 year.

100% Silicone adhesive – I often use when mounting fuel tanks.

Hot Glue – a small dab on servo connections (on the outside of course) keep then secure, be it to the RX or an extension.

Spray Contact Adhesive – Perfect for tacking paper templates on parts to be cut or sanded.

Contact Adhesive (in jar w/brush) – I sometimes will use this when attaching covering such as nylon rip stop on small electric models.

Zap-a-Gap-a-Doo – I have no idea what this glop is, but is works well for attaching mounting plates to the inside of cowls, wheel pants, etc. Generally, I’ll use epoxy instead.

My guess is that you are probably using too much CA glue and all the excess is running off and sticking things together that you don't want stuck together. There are specially designed tips for the thin CA bottle that have very small holes so only a drop or two can come out at a time. When the tip clogs up, just cut off the very end. There are also squeeze types, sort of like a medicine dropper, that work well. Watch closely and use just enough CA to be absorbed into the wood.

I use this glue " super phatic" same as white glue but better dries fast and it's flexable, fuel resistance, cleans with water etc. The only down side is it will not sand well and dope paints don't stick well.. Used for years on my control line and I can say it holds. The best thing is the needle allows you to just add what you want where you want it.

Just don't know why it's never mentioned here before?

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/adhesive.htm

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Rich

At eight bucks for a 50 ml bottle I can see why it's not mentioned too often. I still prefer to use good old Elmer's Carpenter's Glue. It's cheap and a joint glue with it will have the wood break before glue joint does. I have changed over to using it from CA adhesives because of the reactions that CA has with the human body. It's not a CA allergey that people have with the glue, it's a plain old reaction to the adhesive that everybody has. CA reacts with moisture. That's why it's so hard on eyes, nose, mouth, and lungs. I just can't see using an adhesive that hurts me to use it. Also, I feel that the extra working time I get with using Elmer's makes me a better building, I have time to make sure that parts are positioned correctly before the glue "kicks".

That's my 2 cents worth

Ken

I'm like a few of the above, have at least 10 types of glue and there are uses for each of them. Probably 90% of my gluing is done with one of the aliphatics--usually one of the Titbonds--, about 5 % with slow epoxies (30 minute or longer) and about 1% Ca with the rest filling in as needed. Lately, I have found that Gorilla Glue or its equivalent works very well on many of the foam parts as long as you can get it clamped together during cure. Another advantage of the Gorilla glue is that is seems to be completely waterproof when cured.

Does anybody have information about health risks of CA glue? I have had severe alergy like symptoms, but the doctors cannot find any effective treatment. I have no idea if CA glue has any thing to do with it.

Not to be negaitve ?? But have you ever used it before. RCKen ..Now Iam just curious if it just me that finds it more enjoyable to use and that what it's all about for me.

Does anybody dilute white glue with 50% water?

I am sorry if you thought I was putting you down, because that was not my intent. You commented that you wondered why it wasn't more popular, I just made my observation that it may be because of the cost. What somebody prefers to use to build their plane it their business, and I respect that. The only time I will ever say anything negative about their choice is if it will cause a structural problem with the build.

Once again, I am sorry that you mistook my words as a put down. Sorry.

Ken

WOW...what a healthy response to a very good question. I for one have been flying ARFS since I got back into the hobby. The only thing I have used is thin CA for wicking hinges and epoxy for mating stabs and wing halves. The last kit I built was 25 years ago and I don't remember CA as an option then. I think I used good ol' white glue. Which brings me to MY question about glues. Aside from the obvious advantages to CA (fast cure time) and epoxy ( moderate cure times) will white wood glue such as the Elmers variety cure as strong as CA/epoxy, be as fuel resistant and last forever (or at least last longer than me)?

Yes, I use the "white" glues big time. Usually the light creme colored wood/carpenter variety. I mix with water if it starts to get too thick. I use to buy large bottles, but now buy the smaller, sizes around 12 -20 ounces.

When sheeting a foam wing with either 1/64 ply or balsa, the 50-50 mix is outstanding, but allow a week or more to get it done correctly. Brush the mix on both foam and wood. Position wood, place in the cradles and WEIGHT it down. After 24-36 hours remove the wing panel, and let the moldy-looking thing dry out for 12-15 hours. Replace in cradle, add the weight and let it set for 3-4 more days. You will have a sheeted panel that will never bubble regardless of sun-heat or cold. At least I haven't in some 40 years of using the method.

Hello,
I have had severe allergic reaction to CA fumes. Symptoms are coughing, plugged up nasal passages and chest congestion. There is an odorless CA available that is what I use now.

RFan