Would a piece of 5/8" drywall be flat enough to build a plane on?
I've seen builds done on hollow-core doors in the builders forum. But the ones I looked at the local Lowes had very uneven surfaces.
The frame of the doors I looked at were all straight, but the surfaces seemed too wavey to build on

ive got a 2'X6' hollow core door thats working fine

a 2' x 6' hollow core door thats been damaged on a corner or only on one side slightly can be had for under 20 bucks. top this with pieces of cieling tile and its easy to pin to as well...... my $0.02

The drywall would probably be a good surface as it's soft enough to pin to.

However, drywall is not very strong and you'd have to be sitting it on top of something for support.

As long as that something is flat, you should be fine (and I mean flat, not level [level is nice, but flat is important]).

Drywall by itself is not sturdy enough to stay flat. It will conform to whatever surface you place it on. You need to get a flat surface to place the drywall on. The best advice I can offer is get the longest straightedge you can. I have one that is 48" long (picked it up at a paint and wallpaper store). Use it to check how flat a surface such as a hollow core door. Lay it on it's edge on the surface and you will see any bulges or dips in the surface you are checking.

Hope this helps

Ken

I've used dry wall for many years placed on top of counter top. It will hold pins very well and when it gets bad on one side you flip it over and have a new board. Dennis

A hollow core door should be flat. I have an old oak library table with ceiling tile on that. I cover the ceiling tile with 3/32" cork. Dead flat and pinable, and replaceable when it gets damaged or worn.

Dr.1

I use a sheet of drywall on top of the hollow core door. I can pin into it cut on it or what ever and when I need to flip it over and start again. When it gets bad enough I just get another sheet of drywall. I've been doing it this way for years, even had a simular system when we traveled full time in a 5th wheel for 13 years. ENJOY !!! RED

I'll use drywall for a building board, (on a trued flat surface of course). Thanks to all for the advice
I've seen planes at the club I joined, that looked like repaired crashes [&o]
But most of them, I learned later; were built that way[X(]
Although I don't consider myself to be much of a perfectionist.sp.
A straight, strong build. Is important to me.
For the performance of the plane. And more important, the safety of the other fliers and spectators[:@]

I have a nice work bench with a solid top -- 3/4" of plywood topped with 3/4" of particle board. Great for strength, not so good for T-pins. Picked up a sheet of Celotex sound board at the local lumber yard for $10. Ugly as heck, but two coats of white primer fixed that and keeps the surface from shedding fibers. The previous owner of the workbench (my father) used a similar material that came with a flat white finish, like you see on some bulletin boards; I think it was also made by Celotex, but couldn't find it. I figure that $10 sheet will last me 10 years or more. Anyway, this stuff is a lot easier to stick pins into than drywall, and "heals" itself better. You might look into it.

Regards,
Dale

To sum up what has been said...

The surface of a hollow core door may be a little bumpy, but in the grand scheme of things, it is flat.

The surface of a piece of Drywall is smooth, but if you lay the board on something that's not flat, it will conform to the shape of whatever it's laying on.

So to me, a Hollow core door should come first. Then if you want to add a piece of drywall, or a ceiling tile on top of it, go right ahead.

How to use the hollow core door as a workbench top?? - Do you screw the hollow core door to another surface? How? it's hollow. Or build a frame around it? Or lay it on saw horses? Thanks.

I bought a pair of folding table legs at Home depot. I then put a 1x4's (4 of them) all the way across the bottom side of the door (not much strength in middle of door to run screws into). I then attached the folding legs to the 1x4's. This give good support and yet is storable if wanted. The door ends are solid so I attached vertical supports there and then a crossbar from which I hung a dual tube-4 ft fluorescent lamp for good lighting. Also put a power strip on each upright.

fheppenheimer

Please check out my website. It has directions for building work benches and tables. I used a solid core door that was damaged as someone said on a corner. I was able to get the door for $20! The table is flat and sturdy. Also HEAVY! If the page doesn't load the first time just hit refresh. I am having some problems with my ISP, not sure what is happening.


http://mysite.verizon.net/ldharris84/workshop.html

This site will be up for another month until I cut off my old ISP.

http://www.speakeasy.org/~ldharris/workshop.html

Both work now.

Hope this helps
DD

Nice table Dr Death. Solid is nice if you can find one at a good price.

I was definitely hit by the lucky truck when I went to Lowes that day. I probably could have talked the guy down to $15 but I didn't want to push my luck. The table will never warp and is as sturdy as they come. I have just finished putting down a rubberized floor in my shop. Keeps the garage warmer and the floor is a lot easier on the feet than the straight concrete. I am finally getting around to straightening up the shop. It has become a real mess. My wife was asking how can I find anything in that place. I thought and started to remember that I am always misplacing things in there. So I will post new pictures once I am finished.

DD

DD - Thanks! Great tables and benches. Using the solid core door, does it just rest on top of the frame or is screwed down to it?

It is screwed into the frame with 6 #8-2.5 deck screws. There are three on each end of the table. They remove easily if I want to dismantle the thing if I move. They two other tables that I built are secured with drywall screws on each end. I have also heard of people using MDF for table tops by doubling the thickness. That stuff also weighs a ton. Good news is that most Home Depot or Lowes will cut your material to any dimension making it easy for you to build the bench or table at home.

Hope this helps.

DD