richx1

YES! But another Sig Somethin Extra kit build. I wasn't sure if I was going to post my progress on RCU, but I figured why not. Here's what I have in mind for mods:

-Sheet the turtle deck
-Counters on both rudder and elevator
-Sullivan tailwheel
-Considdering a custom cowling
-considdering a better main gear

Thanks to krossk for sending me some pictures on how he did his counters, and thanks also to kiswa for the 3-view picture for the SSE.

I started on the plane about 10 days ago, but I spent the last 7 days in Cabo San Lucas on vacation (I know, lucky me) so my progress is only limited so far. I have the right wing started and the ribs are in place.

I am also finding that I am challenged with a cluttered workspace... I got married recently so I have a ton of left over decorations and such that I am finding I am "dealing" with about my garage... yippie

Digger44

My Feedback: (4)

That Sig is turning out to be a very popular plane around here. Nice color scheme, good luck with the build and have fun.

richx1

Thanks. It's my first kit build... looking forward to my next one too. I'm still not solid on the color scheme... the red and white checkers vs the black and white checkers on the wings and stab seem to conflict in my eyes... anyone have any suggestions?

Also:

Right trailing edge getting applied.

yel914

Good luck on this first build, it's way fun! You might consider enlarging the rudder. I added 1 1/2" to mine with very good results. Your intended color scheme is similar to mine, so I hope this photo helps in the decision making.

richx1

Looks good... 2 inch squares is what I was thinking on using too.

As for the rudder... I think I will be adding an inch or so to it. I'll figure out the exact amount when I get to that part.

Here's to watching glue dry.

richx1

Right Leading Edge going in.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Looking good. So what are you going to use for power? If you are going with a larger 4 stroke and need prop clearalce, consider the DuBro .40-.60 gear. It looks decent, costs considerably less than c/f, and is a lot lighter than the stock set.

richx1

Well... I was planning this airframe to be a replacement for my World Models Mach II. It currently has a OS .46 AX 2 stroke in it... and I have an older OS .40 that could power the Mach II well enough for what it is. I am interested in reducing the total weight of the airframe as I build it... and I think the better clearance might be good to have just in case I do upgrade to a 4-stoke of some sort in the future.

richx1

Right Wing Sheer Webbing going in.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Looking good so far. I have the ARF. I am running a ST .51 with a MA 12x4 prop. This has been a good combo. It hovers it and has plenty of straight line speed. Mine is easier to hover than my Funtana or Ult bipe. I have Saito 72 ready to go. The .51 is on it's last leg. Good luck with the build.



David

richx1

Thanks for the feedback!


Here's a general question to anyone out there reading this thread:

Has anyone replaced the j-hooks with a nylon thread and flat nylon nut setup? For instance: say replace the wooden dowls with a nylon stock rod that is threaded and epoxy it in place, and then create a reinforcement in the fuse to seat a nylon nut against?


Also: new possibility for a mod: Since I am considdering a cowl, I may also put in afuel tank hatch.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Don't bother with the hatch. Just do a little trimming on the tank plate and the former at the rear of the opening. Then don't use a lot of glue attaching the wing tube in the fuse. Mine is actually pretty secure just from the covering ironed on the outer edges. But I do intend to add a drop or 2 of wood glue to the tube to the servo tray. With the tube out of the way, there's a ton of room the get the tank in/out
and you won't have to worry about weakening the front end of the fuse.

As for the J-bolts. I just added a blind nut between the inner and outer root rib and will use a lock nut against the wing to secure the J-hook. Then a nylon zip-tie will keep the wings from going anywhere.

richx1

I was more looking for a less disposable way to keep them in place... but heck, zip ties are cheap anyways. I'll have to considder it though... and I guess i should install the blind nuts just in case. Good idea krossk, thanks!

Test005

Here's my current SSE build:
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3540270/anchors_3540270/mpage_1/key_somethin%252Cextra%252Cbuild%252Calong/anchor/tm.htm#3540270]My SSE[/link]

richx1

Hrm....

Okay... getting ready to start the sheeting on the right wing.

richx1

Questions Questions...


Fuel Tank? Anyone have any input for this?

richx1

Right Wing Sheeting Shots.

I was a little concerned about my leading edge sheet. This is my first and while I have great contact along the ribs and spar I think I may have to work it out a little on the front... any advice?

Test005

The steel spring works. I've seen it in action and it's a good way to keep the wings together.
For fuel tank I have the Dubro 8oz, fits nicely and can be slid out from the tank compartment (Install wood bracket behind tank so it's not coming out in flight, don't forget to pad it in with foam)

Your sheeting looks ok, you'll sand it later.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

I agree with Test005 on all accounts.

richx1

Thanks a ton.

Anyone invest in one of those multi-angle bar sanders? I think Great Planes makes it? I made my own bar sander out of a 20" piece of square bar... but wondering if I should invest in the countour sander too...

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Nah, to me it wasn't worth the $. I got this little sander in my Tiger2 kit and while it may not be as fast as the contour sander, it works pretty well if you are careful and take your time.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

That contour sander is a waste of good aluminum. You'll see more use out of the straight bars. The long one (22", I believe) makes short work of truing up a wing or other long surface. Its a really useful tool.

I have two of the twelve-inchers always handy; one with 100 grit paper, the other with 220.

Here's trick for quick-changing the paper, which can be a major PITA. Lock the bar upside down in your vise, and heat the paper thoroughly with a heat gun or hair dryer on high. That will soften the adhesive, and the when the sandpaper starts to curl at the ends, just peel it right off the bar. Allow to cool, clean the residue off the bar with acetone or lacquer thinner, and you're ready for a new piece of paper.

If you "jump the gun" and start to peel the paper before all the adhesive has softened, you will leave a mess when it tears. No drama; just use a single-edge razor blade to scrape it off. I buy those things by the hundred at Home Depot.

Test005

I only use a long bar sander, just the flat, standard from GreatPlanes.
It works good and is all you need to shape the wing, trainilg edge, ailerons etc...

A tip is to CA a small piece of sandpaper to the shaft of a screw driver.
This makes a perfect tool to enlarge holes and smooth small curves.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I have several bar sanders but use something different for long pieces like sheeting. The front of my work bench is 2" thick. So i took some 2" wide sand paper with sticky on the back and put it on the work bench. Now I can hold the sheeting evenly with both hands and move it back and forth.


David

richx1

Good to know about the countour sanders. I think this next shot will have in it the bar sander I made from left over square stock... but not sure it'll do the complete job because it's only 1" wide...

None the less.... Right Wing, top sheeting in place... flipping over once the glue is Dry.

Also, Shot 2: I noticed there is a little bowing in the sheeting between W1a and W2... normal? Advice?


Thanks!