Depending on the style ailerons you want, It could be quite a bit of work. But its definitely possible to install them.

1 to 2 inch wide strip ailerons full span would be the simplest. Just hinge on the ailerons, adding to the wing chord. You'll want to use one servo for each side, and have the servos about 3 or 4 bays out from the center section. routing the wires for the servos and installing the mounting plates will mean cutting some covering from the bottom of the wing.

Sort-of scale style ailerons would mean the servos mount further aoutboard, and quite a bit more work to cut the aileron shape from the wings, making stub rib ends and installing the wood for hinging the surfaces. You'd be cutting the covering up enough that it might mean recovering the entire wing.

Chord... I didn't measure. Span of a stock Kadet Sr is 78 inches. I stretched mine to 83. (and it has flaps and ailerons)

The normal proceedure when flying a R/E/T aircraft is to put primary turning control (rudder) on the right stick. This is how the traditional Mode 1 got started... when ailerons were added, they were assigned to the left stick because the early R/C pilots were used to the rudder on the right, and the ailerons were considered a secondary turning control. The Mode 2 setup developed for compliance with the control yoke in full scale aircraft.

That's why I prefer other planes for initial trainers (NOTE -- that's a personal preference only: I'm not saying it's a bad plane, so please don't think that's what I meant. It comes from my sailing background, so if you don't agree, don't take it too seriously.)

Anyway, a plane with too much stability will really hestitate to respond to control and then tend to respond more strongly than intended when it gets around to it. I've had other planes with that behavior and sliding the CG backward made them into a real pleasure to fly... killed the hesitation and the jerkiness and just made for a smooth easy response that happens when a command is given. (I never got around to verifying that my Seniorita would get the same benfit, but you may find that you love its new mode of behavior if you give it a try. Just make sure you adjust in SMALL steps.)

Hi there, I learned to fly in the last 8 months on a Senior without ailerons. Still having fun with it, lately been shooting LOTS of touch and goes. This plane does go slow, gives me time to think. In the last two months I've progressed from being nervous all the time, to finally being able to observe how this plane flys. The way it is now, it ballons a lot when turning into a headwind and the wind generally pushes it around a lot. I am almost done building another wing with ailerons on it. I built up barndoor style, but if I were to do it again I think the strip type would be much easier. I've reduced the dihedral to 3/4 inch per side. Hopefully this will help it in the wind. Have fun, Mike.

With the barn door ailerons, rig the linkages to give twice as much upward defelction as downward. That will greatly reduce the adverse yaw tendency. With equal deflection, the aileron induced adverse yaw can overpower the rudder.

By chosing where in the rotation arc of the servo wheel the linkage connects for neutral, you determine the amount of differential throw. With the control horn on the bottom surface, the linkage should be forward of parallel with the spar. (or forward of vertical if the servo is on its side.) You can go as far as 50 deg forward before the surface will start going back up when you are trying to move it down. (at 90 deg, it pushes up either way you move the stick)

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]a A fellow modeler suggested to me that I raise the trailing edge of the Senior wing a quarter inch. This reduces the wing incedense. This will allow the plane to respond quicker, and eliminate the tendecy to float on landing. I have 4 Seniors in various configurations[bashed] all with the raised trailing edge. Try it by putting a piece of quarter sq. under the wing a cross the cabin, if you like the way you Senior flies make it permanate.

Something else I would do, just practice flying your trainers with rudder only. Don't unhook the ailerons, just don't use them unless you feel uncomfortable on landing or takeoff.

Just can't resist throwing in my 2 cents worth. On three channel planes with nose wheel ssteering, I always encourage new pilots to set them up with a fourth servo. Put the rudder on channel 1 (ailerons). Elevator and throttle stay where they are. Then hook the fourth servo to the nose wheel steering only and put it in the rudder slot on the receiver.

This way you learn to steer on the ground using the rudder stick, which is where the steering will be when you go to a 4 channel plane with ailerons. Also, for old stick-in-the-mud flyers like me, who may end up being your instructor, the steering is where you are used to it being. I have a Kadet Senority set up this way. Works really well.

Take care, and enjoy that Senior. All those Kadets are fine flying planes and great trainers.