Drill Starter
#1
do you guys use 'drills' to start your engines at all? if you do, what type of drills are fast enough to spin .46 to .72 size engines. can you just buy the spinner cup and install it in the chuck of the drill? any thoughts would be great!
thanks
thanks
#2
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From: LondonSussex, UNITED KINGDOM
I was in the LHS the other day - with someone buying a similar adaptor for use with a nitro car. Not having a plane starter I asked the same question as you but I was told that people didn't do that - at least not over here !
#3

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ORIGINAL: swixtt
do you guys use 'drills' to start your engines at all? if you do, what type of drills are fast enough to spin .46 to .72 size engines. can you just buy the spinner cup and install it in the chuck of the drill? any thoughts would be great!
thanks
do you guys use 'drills' to start your engines at all? if you do, what type of drills are fast enough to spin .46 to .72 size engines. can you just buy the spinner cup and install it in the chuck of the drill? any thoughts would be great!
thanks
One of my students bought the soft insert, put a bolt through it with a nut and washer to keep it from turning, and chucked the bolt in his cordless drill. He spun the engine and spun it, and it would not start, though it popped. I could hand start the engine, or start it with my starter, he could not start with his drill arrangement. I believe the unsupported cone would stick too well to the spinner, keeping the engine from spooling up when the fuel ignited.
Also, an ergonomic note, the available starters are much more convenient and easy to handle.
Good luck,
Dave Olson
#4
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I've seen people that have tried to use drills to start glow engines, but they usually don't work. The reason is that the drill doesn't spin fast enough to get the engine started. Electric starters are usually around $10-$15, so they're not that expensive at all. As a side note, I have an electric starter but I very rarely use it. I flip start all of my motors and only turn to the electric when a motor is being difficult and stubborn to start, usually when it's a bit cold outside. If done properly flip starting a glow engine is a quick, easy, and reliable way to start your motors.
Ken
Ken
#5
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From: tigard,
OR
Look into heli-max super starter, it will start planes and heli's for around $ 40.00. go to www.helimax.com
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From: Minnetonka,
MN
My starter was too light to turn my MDS 1.48, and I used my bosch 1/2" hammer drill. It worked great with the cup from my starter. I don't use it anymore, only once. Now I flip start the big mds.
You could look on ebay to find a nice used starter. I bought mine on there for like five dollars and some shipping.
You could look on ebay to find a nice used starter. I bought mine on there for like five dollars and some shipping.
#7
thanks for the info... i mainly wanted to use one for the ease of charging the battery. i had wondered if it was fast enough to spin the prop. i'll leave the idea for now.
#8
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From: Eugene, Or
Most single speed cordless drills only spin 500-900 rpm max..
Some of the hammer drills have 2 speeds and can get up to 1500rpm
THat might start an engine..
Just to copmpare a Dynatron turns 4800 on 12v unloaded
Some of the hammer drills have 2 speeds and can get up to 1500rpm
THat might start an engine..
Just to copmpare a Dynatron turns 4800 on 12v unloaded
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From: Riyadh, SAUDI ARABIA
Just a word of Advise on the Helimax Super Start ; I used it to start my 30 and 50 helis ; However , when I used it on my 90 Heli , The hex-shaft that connects to the spinner cup-broke off inspite that the starter started the 90 engine easily . Replaced the shaft ...and re-broke the same way with the 90 heli. It turned out that there is a design Flaw in the shaft - It seems that Helimax has smae starter design as Duratrax Super Start and used the same Hollow Hex shaft for the spinner cup shaft ; however under pressure from torquing the 90 Engine ....BRRRREAKS. I went to a Lathe Shop and made a new steel shaft but non-hollow . costs 12$; That worked well so far. So if you need it for a 90 size engine, Do the modifications I mentioned, otherwise, you will continue to replace shafts with each engine start for 90 engines; works well for smaller engines without modifications with fantastic torque.



