I've flown but never landed or taken off. And as for building all I have done is built is two Graupner rubber powered kits, a lancer and a j3 cub. So here we go.

I have on order is a Sig Kadet Senior Trainer Kit and a .61 for power(I don't know the model or brand but the gentleman at the shop says there pre-broke in and I liked the slanted glow plug port and remote a/f screw) and a Hitec Optic 6. He also has a used field kit/tote w/power panel, elect. fuel pump and a starter.
I want to learn with ailerons or with flaperons.
Well that's the setup and I WILL have Flight instruction.
What I need is building tips and whether or not there is something wrong with my setup plan.
The Graupner kits only required thinned wood glue to put together and I was wondering why I hadn't seen more of it used in larger kits? Is ca that much better? As I understand it the kit isn't complete as you have to get control rods and such. I would like to hear any suggestions on these and for setting them up.(there'll be two servos in the wing for flaperons) I've seen so many different options for control rods and cables and connecting them to servos and control horns that I'm not sure what is best. Ball links or z bends or the plastic little clips, so what are the prose and cons of each set up. also I was thinking about using this
[link]http://www.hobby-lobby.com/push rods.htm#Transfer[/link]
for feeding the rudder and elevator to keep it looking neat. Is there any reason I shouldn't?
Is there anything a guy can do to beef the Kadet up?(after I learn to fly I will be putting a payload on bored (eg camera or water balloon dropper ect.) Also, there is a energetic little boy who would like to learn with me, so after we get a sim. program and he (we,lol) get good on it he'll also be flying it.

I'm sure there'll be more ?s to come but this is good for starters.
Thanks
Shawn
kd7oir

The engine you described sounds like an Evolution to me.The link you put up didn't take me anywhere. You can get a lot of mixed opinions as to what's best, but I think everyone will pretty much agree that in general Dubro makes pretty good hardware. Which type of connectors and so on is a personal choice. All in all it's sounds like you've got a good Trainer set-up going. I don't have any Evolution engines, but I have heard & read good things about them. Good luck in your new venture.

I agree that it sounds like an Evolution engine. I have a .61 and a .46 and both of them worked right out of the box and used on flights w/o any break-in.

As for building tips there is a great thread here for the LT-40 by RCKen. There is a ton of information in this thread and I would suggest reading through it. Your setup and approach look very good to me.

Regarding the field box equipment, if cash is tight, I would suggest trying to get by with the minimum. It does not take a lot of equipment to get a plane in the field ready for flight. A simple wood dowel is all that will be required to start an EVO engine, manual fuel pump, glow plug starter, a few simple tools, and cleaning materials (for the glow fuel slime). If your club is as friendly as mine, there will be others that have some of the "fancy" stuff to help you if you need them. I may have forgotten a few, but I remember seeing a thread here that went over some the the basic necessities.

Enjoy the build process and ask any questions you may have.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/pushrods.htm#Transfer

Here it is. just copy and paste it. as for the field box equipment, the price is good. About $125 for $250 worth of stuff. I cant go wrong. The gentleman that is going to help me in the field has all this but I want it for after I learn. Thanks and I'll read on that LT-40 thread.

Oh I didn't see any thind on the clue "?". I use a good quality wood glue in everything thats wood. Is C A that inportant?
THanks again
Shawn

As far as the used Field box being a good price @ $125 but worth $250?? I don't know what all he has in that used Field box that makes it worth $250 but you can get a couple different types of complete combos Field box, starter, Battery, Power panel, fuel pump etc. for around $119 NEW! Tower also allways has some kind of discounts going on that will absorb the cost of shipping. Here are a couple you can look at to see how they compare with whatever it is that he wants $125 for used.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL419&P=ML


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0161p?&I=LZ0600


Those are just a couple of examples, there are more to choose from. Personally I wanted the Great Planes Master Caddy, but I wanted the Hobbico starter, so I kind of mixed & matched what I wanted, still came out to less than that used box you're talking about.

As for the glue, I watched my Dad build very fine flying planes with wood glue for years before there was any CA. Of course he had to use hot-fuelproof dope too. These days some guys use all three, Wood, CA & Epoxy. I'll leave it to the guys with the building experience to tell you what is best to use where.

In the LT-40 build thread RCKen talks about glue. A good quality waterproof wood glue is used by many builders from what I have read. I am building my first kit (Slow Poke Sport 40 build thread) and used a combination of glue, CA, and Epoxy. It is basically a matter of personnel preference. CA fumes get to me and start to burn my eyes. I also always to seem to get some on me and start sticking to a variety of objects. Wood glue allows you to adjust the pieces if needed after putting them in place. A drawback is the amount of time you need to allow for the glue to setup and dry. Either glue will work fine, just make sure you use Epoxy where it states in the instructions.

Rob

When I started building planes I built with CA glues. I built with them for a few years and then I made the decision to switch to using wood glue, Elmer's Carpenter's glue to be specific. As to why I switched?? While I never really developed the severe reactions that I hear about on RCU, I still didn't enjoy what the fumes did to me. So I switched to using wood glue and haven't regretted it one bit either. In fact, I feel that I have become a better builder since I switched. As mentioned above, when you are working with the wood glue you have the time to make sure that your parts are positioned properly before the glue sets, with CA if your part is out of position you have no time to correct it since the glue sets immediately. Also, with the quickness of CA I noticed that I would sometimes work so fast that I made mistakes because I would be building too quickly. When a joint is glued with CA it is next to impossible to sand it because CA is almost as hard as rocks when it's dried, but wood glue can be sanded as easily as the wood can. You're going to hear people that build with CA tell you that they don't like to wait for wood glue and that's why they use CA, but I'll challenge them with the fact that using proper planning and building I can build as fast with wood glue, if not faster, as they can with CA. I still have thin CA around my shop but only for a couple of purposes, mainly for hardening threads and holes in the balsa and for CA hinges (although I will only use CA hinges on planes if I am building for somebody and they request it. otherwise I use hinge points). I would urge you go give serious thought to using wood glue instead of CA.

Hope this helps

Ken

Lol, I allways get stuck to everything!! When using CA spend the extra $$ for a bottle of debonder, that stuff is worth it's weight in gold!!

RCKen - sounds like you've been building for a couple of years .

I learned to build with yellow carpenters glue and expoy long before the advent of CA. I've found CA can be brittle and have noticed on some crashes that the CA glue failed, but have not had a glue joint failure with carpenters glue - the wood always went first. I will use CA, but for limited uses like thread hardening. I have a few planes close to 30 years old that are still flight worthy - built with carpenters glue. I think since yellow glue takes a lot longer to set up, it may penetrate the wood better and will flex a bit more in a very hard landing (i.e. crash landing ) than CA.

Given the choice I always recommend yellow glue - it's worked well for me for close to 30 years.

Hogflyer

hogflyer, would you really still put those planes in the air?? I'm not trying to give you a hard time, I'm truly curious because I have a plane that is at least 30yrs or older, scratch built by my Dad. It's a 1/2A Reno Racer type plane. He told me not to try to fly it because it was too old & that by now the wood would be too crisp, & it might fail. I'm not really sure I understood what he meant by "too crisp" do you know?

elenasgrumpy,

Only reason I don't fly them is more sentimental - I enjoyed the heck out of them and have since retired them. As far as airworthiness they are (except for 1) in fine shape. One I won't fly is because the tissue covering has suffered the ravages of time (I think Nitrate Dope never stops shrinking). It's shrunk to the point where you just look at it and it splitst. It an old Sterling Mini-Mambo and is structurally sound, but since it's my first RC plane (and trophy winner) I don't have the hart to rip the covering off it. Besides it really flew like crap [&o], but that could also have been the full size servo's, reciever and 600Mah 4-AA Nicad reciever pack from an MRC 765 radio along with a worn out Baby Bee .049 along with my inexperience at the time . My Airtronics Q-Tee, with a modern radio and new Black Widow .049 stands a good chance of flying this summer. I've posted a picture of it in my gallery.

I recently recovered the fuselage for my Scat Cat 500. Built in 1980, has well over 2500 flights. Solid as a rock. I've been thinking of getting that one back in the air on a limited basis this summer also.

I'd have no problem with planes built with yellow carpenters glue being structurally sound after close to 30 years. Depends more on the quality of build - I was taught by a guy who started building in the 1930's and is still very active in his 80's.

Hogflyer

Maybe I should of started a new thread but I started this one so this question applies to the names sake. My wing is quiet a bit heavier on one side than the other and I'm going to cover the underside with transparent yellow. I don't want to see anything I've glewed on to balance it through the covering. the only place I can think of is putting it in the enclosed tips, but how? Any suggestions, please! I'm almost ready to cover now, with a about a days work left to go on it and I'll be there.
Thanks
Shawn

I use stick on weights and epoxy them to the last rib when using plastic wing tips. If they are wood, just hollow out a section before gluing, or drill holes in the wing tip from the bottom and use balsa filler.

the wing tips are balsa and holow. I don't want anything moving around in them so I don't want to just stuff something in therethe wing tips are balsa and hollow. I don't want anything moving around in them so I don't want to just stuff something in there.
Thanks.

Well,

The tip is the most efficient place to put weight. You will need much less than if you added it to the center of the panel. BTW if it's not too bad, just leave it and balance it after you have covered it and installed servos. Sometimes they 'magically' re-balance after you cover and install.

Have fun

No, it's bad, by almost two oz difference from tip to tip.

You don't just stuff something in there or it will be bouncing around. Go to your LHS & get some balancing weights. They are a strip of weights with a sticky back each liitle square is marked so you'll know how many you need to use to get the 2 oz difference your looking for. The plane isn't covered yet so just stick them right to the inside of the last rib then re-check your latteral balance. once you've got it balanced right you could add a little glue or epoxy if you're not real comfortable with the feel of the sticky back stuff on the weights, but go easy with it epoxy is heavy too.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCKT0&P=ML


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK204&P=ML

These are what I am talking about.

I got it figured out. I'll glue the weight to the back of the shier web then take some 1/16 and cover it up. out of sight out of mind. it might take a little more than if it were on the tip but you would really have to look to see it through the transparent yellow.
Thanks for the suggestions and if there is anything wrong with this idea, please let me know soon. I'm going to be starting to cover the fuse today or tomorrow.
Thanks again
Shawn