NEXSTAR upgrade question ....
#1
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From: Goldsboro, NC
I was reading that some flyers got rid of those plastic/nylon clevises and replace them with metal stonger ones. What type would I use ? or another recommendation ?
Cheers
Cheers
#2
I bought a pack of the Dubro Kwik Link's for my Sig Somethin' Extra
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD885&P=7
I plan to put them on my nexstar as well.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD885&P=7
I plan to put them on my nexstar as well.
#3
IMHO, no need to replace them on a NexStar. If you are worried about them coming loose then use fuel line hose or safety wire. What I did was take the wire from the bread wrapper and use it. You wrap it around the clevis (making sure it does not interfere with the deflection) to hold everything tight. I have been using that for some time now and have not had any problems. For the larger planes I will build I will use the metal clevises because of the stresses that will be put on them.
#4

As I stated in a previous thread of yours(I think), they are OK. But if you really want to put on metal one, these are good and include locks.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV17&P=7
Make sure you have 2-56 pushrods, if metric you will need to get the metric version of the metal clevis. I also pointed this out before.
EDIT: I checked and it was someone else's thread that I had made that previous post to.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV17&P=7
Make sure you have 2-56 pushrods, if metric you will need to get the metric version of the metal clevis. I also pointed this out before.
EDIT: I checked and it was someone else's thread that I had made that previous post to.
#5
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
Even if you do upgrade to metal clevis you need to put a piece of fuel tubing on the clevis to keep it from opening up accidentally. But having trained more students than I care to count (and seeing many different trainers) I can tell you that the supplied plastic clevis that come with the trainer are more than adequate for this plane. Put fuel line keepers on them and you'll be fine. Upgrading to metal clevis is just spending money that you could spend elsewhere.
Hope this helps
Ken
Hope this helps
Ken
#7
With the quick links holding the pushrods to the servo arms, drill a small hole (1/16 is large enough) in them and wrap a piece of thread (soaked in CA) to keeping them from falling off. Won't affect control operation, but could keep the ailerons, etc. working properly (don't ask how I know
).
).
#8

My Feedback: (13)
dont worry about any of the hardware its more than fine although as noted use the fuel line for safety take notice of the small barbs on the clevice thats so the fuel line doesn't slip off. you might want to pull the AFS sensor out and seal the hole with monocote as the fuel from exaust will soak into the fuse were its exposed . I never used the AFS ever but didn't remove the sessor until I noticed the fuel soaking into the fuse weakening the balsa
#9
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From: Goldsboro, NC
Great thanks for the input everyone. The fuel line idea is great. Also bigtim, was there a W/B issue that needed to be address? or was it still in?
ORIGINAL: bigtim
dont worry about any of the hardware its more than fine although as noted use the fuel line for safety take notice of the small barbs on the clevice thats so the fuel line doesn't slip off. you might want to pull the AFS sensor out and seal the hole with monocote as the fuel from exaust will soak into the fuse were its exposed . I never used the AFS ever but didn't remove the sessor until I noticed the fuel soaking into the fuse weakening the balsa
dont worry about any of the hardware its more than fine although as noted use the fuel line for safety take notice of the small barbs on the clevice thats so the fuel line doesn't slip off. you might want to pull the AFS sensor out and seal the hole with monocote as the fuel from exaust will soak into the fuse were its exposed . I never used the AFS ever but didn't remove the sessor until I noticed the fuel soaking into the fuse weakening the balsa
#10
Senior Member
Be cautious mixing and matching hardware from different manufacturers.
Did you know that the diameter of Dubro and Great Planes 2-56 push rods are actaully different?!
I discovered this when I try to solder a Dubro threaded coupler onto a Great Planes push rod. It wasn't big enough to fit over Great Plans rod!?!
Great Planes 2-56 threaded push rods, 0.074" diameter
http://greatplanes.com/accys/gpmq3710.html
Dubro 2-56 threaded push rods, 0.072" diameter
http://dubro.com/DUBRO2005CATALOG/DU...alog_5C7B.html
Sullivan don't specify the exact diameter for theirs.
There may or may not be a problem in this case... it is just something to be aware of and considered on a case by case basis.
(I've read of people swapping hardware with UNF threads (e.g. 2-56) on ARF's that are suppled with metric rods and reporting them coming apart in flight.)
Did you know that the diameter of Dubro and Great Planes 2-56 push rods are actaully different?!
I discovered this when I try to solder a Dubro threaded coupler onto a Great Planes push rod. It wasn't big enough to fit over Great Plans rod!?!
Great Planes 2-56 threaded push rods, 0.074" diameter
http://greatplanes.com/accys/gpmq3710.html
Dubro 2-56 threaded push rods, 0.072" diameter
http://dubro.com/DUBRO2005CATALOG/DU...alog_5C7B.html
Sullivan don't specify the exact diameter for theirs.
There may or may not be a problem in this case... it is just something to be aware of and considered on a case by case basis.
(I've read of people swapping hardware with UNF threads (e.g. 2-56) on ARF's that are suppled with metric rods and reporting them coming apart in flight.)




