It's official
#2
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From: Chesapeake,
VA
If thats true, im right behind you 
I took this approach...try really hard...realize it looks like crap...
rationalize doing the rest quick and crappy by saying "its my first kit...its going to lawndart itself...
"

I took this approach...try really hard...realize it looks like crap...
rationalize doing the rest quick and crappy by saying "its my first kit...its going to lawndart itself...
"
#4
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There are a couple of good instructions/videos on covering here. Take your time when covering and do not expect the first covering job or two to look that good.
The 2 primarily used coverings are Monokote and Ultracote. Each has certain advantages and disadvantages and "followers".
Each type of covering requires a different "knack" to get it right - the majority of the skills needed are very easily transferred to other types of coverings, so don't be afraid to try different coverings.
For someone just starting to learn how to cover, I suggest Ultracote initially. I (and others ) have found that it goes on around wingtips substantially easier than Monokote, requires less heat and doesn't gas out (for bubbles when used over a solid surface ) anywhere near as much as Monokote.
The 2 primarily used coverings are Monokote and Ultracote. Each has certain advantages and disadvantages and "followers".
Each type of covering requires a different "knack" to get it right - the majority of the skills needed are very easily transferred to other types of coverings, so don't be afraid to try different coverings.
For someone just starting to learn how to cover, I suggest Ultracote initially. I (and others ) have found that it goes on around wingtips substantially easier than Monokote, requires less heat and doesn't gas out (for bubbles when used over a solid surface ) anywhere near as much as Monokote.
#5
striderjg-we are going to need some visual verification to make this 'official' (i.e. a photo).
Don't worry about it, just keep practicing, you'll get better.
Don't worry about it, just keep practicing, you'll get better.
#7

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From: Flower Mound, TX
All you have to realize is that covering takes time. A LOT of time. I have covered one plane so far, but I think it turned out nicely. I used the video and articles on RCU and whatever tips people would give (which basically all boiled down to 'take your time').
For the end results of my first covering job, take a look at my avatar image. Keep in mind, that was a kit-built plane and it took me more time to cover it than it took to build. That should give you an idea of how long it takes when you're just starting on covering!
For the end results of my first covering job, take a look at my avatar image. Keep in mind, that was a kit-built plane and it took me more time to cover it than it took to build. That should give you an idea of how long it takes when you're just starting on covering!
#8
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From: Waterford,
PA
My tricks are low resolution camera take it far away and use dark colors. Then at the field guard it with chairs so no one can get near it as distance makes mine look cool.
Rich

Rich
#11
Maybe I'm not as bad as I thought...
My biggest problem with covering was trying so hard not to waste any so I would end up piecing it together which never looks very good.
My biggest problem with covering was trying so hard not to waste any so I would end up piecing it together which never looks very good.
#12
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From: Dunlap,
IL
Most of those wrinkles could be gotten rid of by using a hotter heat gun. Just be careful and not melt the covering. Moneykote will shink a LOT with enough heat. My Hobbico heat gun barely gets hot enough for Monkeykote. I commandeered one that my wife had but it will melt through if I'm not careful. And, no, a covering iron will not do as good a job. That's because you are stretching the covering by pushing the iron on it at the same time you're trying to shrink it.
Kerry
Kerry
#13
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From: Concord,
MA
Ok... it's not quite like that. I'll put some pics up a little later. Overall it's relavitly tight. Except around the wing tips and wing center. Was that covering job on the 4-star done with just a iron? I could see mine having come out like that if I didn't have a heat gun.' Looks like was heated around the ribs more then between them.
#15

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From: Flower Mound, TX
For the record: I did NOT cover that plane. The only plane I've covered is the SSE in my avatar.
So, I really don't know how lego man covered his plane. But clearly the technique was lacking.
So, I really don't know how lego man covered his plane. But clearly the technique was lacking.
#17
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From: Concord,
MA
ok, as I promised pics. Sorry about the smudge. Didn't realize my lense needed cleaning. I didn't get pics of the 2 patches I did cause of exacto knife lying on table btw
wing top

wing bottom

wing tip

wing center

wing top

wing bottom

wing tip

wing center
#18
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From: Fort Myers,
FL
that looks like something I would do, but I've never covered a plane before. Heck I just learned to to tighten the the covering on my Hobbico Nextstar, which arrived with very wrinkled covering. Amazing what you can do with a household iron.. LOL
#19

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From: Flower Mound, TX
I hate to say this... but most of the blemishes on your covering seem to be problems with the underlying structure. I think your covering would be a lot nicer if everything had been sanded with 100, 200, and 320 grit sandpaper before you covered it (and cleaned of all dust, of course).
As to the wing tip and the wing center... I don't even know how I worked around that myself. You just have to work with the covering in as small a section as you can to try and reduce the amount of wrinkles on curved surfaces.
If it's any consolation, the distant shots of the whole wing both look quite nice.
As to the wing tip and the wing center... I don't even know how I worked around that myself. You just have to work with the covering in as small a section as you can to try and reduce the amount of wrinkles on curved surfaces.
If it's any consolation, the distant shots of the whole wing both look quite nice.
#20
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From: Battle Ground,
WA
For whats its worth: I've only used Ultracote to repair previously covered planes and I found it pretty good to work with. I've only covered two kits and I used Nelson Lite-Fab. As its a fabric, it has kind of an old school look, which is what I was seeking.
Advantages:
Very easy to get a nice tight covering job. VERY
More durable than the the other plastic coverings. Less hanger rash.
Can be painted. I used Rustoleum on one plane. Came out good.
Roll comes in 2 meters. A bit more than others
Has a matte finish if thats what you want.
Backing easy to remove.
Disadvantages:
Expensive. $19.99 per roll
Limited colors.
Maybe a bit heavier than other coverings...not sure
If you're wanting the flashy shiny finish that is so popular, its not the covering for you, but if you want the flatter look with the fabric look it can't be beat. Nelson also has a line of paint that I haven't used.
Advantages:
Very easy to get a nice tight covering job. VERY
More durable than the the other plastic coverings. Less hanger rash.
Can be painted. I used Rustoleum on one plane. Came out good.
Roll comes in 2 meters. A bit more than others
Has a matte finish if thats what you want.
Backing easy to remove.
Disadvantages:
Expensive. $19.99 per roll
Limited colors.
Maybe a bit heavier than other coverings...not sure
If you're wanting the flashy shiny finish that is so popular, its not the covering for you, but if you want the flatter look with the fabric look it can't be beat. Nelson also has a line of paint that I haven't used.
#22
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From: Concord,
MA
ya, I stink at cuttin a straight edge when it's already down. Lol. To be fair. the pictures actually make it look worse then it is. The flash was at a angle that just picked up everything and made them look a lot lot bigger. I think cause it gave them sharp shadows. U can even see the dust on the wing top
As for sanding, I used 100 for rought sanding joints, then finish sanded with 220, 320, and 600, and cleaned it off with a tack cloth. Gettin the fiber glassed section smooth was a nightmare. I decided to stop when I was thinning the wood on the sheeting next to the fiberglass to much. I put a few dents in the wood in the process of covering though
It really does look 90 times better in person though. I'm on to the fuse now. Got some little stips down on the tail surfaces corners. So close to being done though... woohoo. Just put in my app for the ama so I'll be ready to go to club with plane when it's done.
-John
As for sanding, I used 100 for rought sanding joints, then finish sanded with 220, 320, and 600, and cleaned it off with a tack cloth. Gettin the fiber glassed section smooth was a nightmare. I decided to stop when I was thinning the wood on the sheeting next to the fiberglass to much. I put a few dents in the wood in the process of covering though
It really does look 90 times better in person though. I'm on to the fuse now. Got some little stips down on the tail surfaces corners. So close to being done though... woohoo. Just put in my app for the ama so I'll be ready to go to club with plane when it's done.-John
#23
When I have to cut a straight edge, I lay down a piece of masking tape and use it as a guide. Then use a really sharp blade and slowly follow the line made by the tape. Just be sure to only cut through the top layer of covering. I've found that straight lines hide themselves better with the reflecting light.
#24
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From: , GA
I'll bet anything you'd never know by flying it provided it was built right. Beyong 10' wrinkles aren't even visible.
ORIGINAL: kiswa
I'm not trying to pick on anyone here, but is your covering like this?
I'm not trying to pick on anyone here, but is your covering like this?



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