In my enthusiasm to finish a mod started last October on a Kadet LT-40, I melted a hole in the wing's original Monokote covering. It's tight, now….

I'm using Econokote for the mod and the repair. I thought of using MK solvent but have never used it. Would I be better off using an iron, solvent, or combination or both. I've only covered 2 other planes with MK (the old, good stuff) and need some help here before I bugger it up further.
The best suggestion wins a prize--my eternal gratitude.

When we get done with this problem, may someone will tell me how to drill the control horn holes on a tapered aileron so they line up and I don't spend over an hour attaching one horn.

Thanks,

Bob in Toledo

DO NOT use Econokote. It is NOT fuel proof, only fuel resistant. Use standard Monokote.
Cut the torn covering back until you hit wood, then recover the whole panel. It's much less noticeable that way. Iron down the edges and shrink tight.

A drill press will align your horn holes, if the aileron isn't already installed. I use a pin vise to drill those holes. You can get them pretty well aligned with a little practice. Use 3/4" #2 screws. If the holes are a little misaligned, you can move them enough to get the screws started. Start one screw, then wiggle everything until the other sits in the backplate hole. Use side cutters to nip off the excess. Takes about 5 minutes per horn.

Dr.1

As for the control horn:
I saw a technic recently that I will try in the future but looked good.
Use scrap wedge shaped pieces clamped to any tapered surface to sqaure up the area being drilled.

I'm way past cutting nad recovering. I'll patch this darn thing with duct tape if I have to, to get it in the air.

Your comment on Econokote not being fuel proof really surprises me, as Tower ad says its is fuel proof. I would not have bought it otherwise.

Lets see if my pic will U/L this time.

Thanks,

BoB

Rollingthunder,
I've used Econokote exactly once, and only once. It was so bad that I actually threw away the unused portions that were left over. I wouldn't use it again even it I was payed to use it.

You should try to patch the hole correctly as mentioned above. If you really don't want to bother with doing it right you can just cover the hole with packing tape and fly the plane. It won't look very good, but it will fly. In fact, every flight box should have a roll of packing tape in it for quick repairs at the field.

Hope this helps

Ken

I've used TowerKote and Econokote and found both ok to do the job and both seem to be fuel proof. I have an old foam wing Sturdy Bird covered with this stuff, 12 years old and still flyable with no signs of deterioation.. Also use it for trim and repairs in some spots. Both are low temp coverings and thin. They are designed to be used in special applications requiring this type of film only. Most other applications it's better to use MonoKote or similar high temp thicker films.

Thanks John. You have no idea how much these little statements mean to us. USAF 13.5 years.

I have had to make many repairs and found that cutting out the entire effected area in a square or rectangular patern al the way out to the wood that surrounds the rip/hole works the best for me; then cut your patch to overlap about 1/4 to 3/16 inch on all sides. use a sealing iron to adhear your patch all the way arround. Then use a heat gun to tighten it back up. Not invisible but functional. If you want invisible then come up with some sort of grapphics scheme tho cover the hole. This is a lot more work.

I've also had less than acceptable results with econokote. I used it on my first plane because it had a foam wing. It was nowhere near as fuel proof as monokote.

Econokote is meant for light weight models (foamies, electric, etc). It is fuel resistant not fuel proof. Better to just get some monokote. If you don't want to buy a roll, borrow a piece of scrap from a fellow modeler.

If you don't want to cut back to wood and just want a small hole patch, make it round or round the corners. Cut the hole so you have a smooth cut all around and then cut the patch to overlap the hole about 1/8 all around. Iron it down, don't use solvent.

But it looks better overall if you can cut all the way around to a wood structure and then patch the whole thing.

Don

Took this from the tech notes on Tower's website. They do advertise it to be fuel proof.
The problem is they advertise it to be fuelproof and it isn't

Ken

Yep, they lie!

Or at least just made a mistake with the ad copy.

Don

NO???? Tower make a mistake!!! [X(]



Ken

Thanks John. You have no idea how much these little statements mean to us. USAF 13.5 years.

No, thank YOU, stang. Patrick Henry said it best, "Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take, but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!"

Dr.1

I wish my pic would of up-loaded, it explains a lot.

I installed aileron servo's 18 inches out in each wing on the Kadet as the torque rod linkage worked loose and there was a ton of play in the aileron. When I cut into the wing I found the wing ribs were solid. Major job drilling holes in each rib, and the rib hidden under the center sheeting was more fun than one person should be allowed to have. I've already cut and replaced the covering between the servo bay and center and the 2 wing spars. Did a pretty nice job(for me) of re-covering both wing panels. I just can't bear to tear up all my work for a small one inch hole. As this is my first trainer, won at a club raffle last year to entice me back into this hobby after many, many years, I'm sure I'll have many more opportunities to re-cover this wing.

I wish I'd know about econokote before my cover job.

Thanks all for the feed back,

Bob

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Ken