My LT40 wont turn!
#1
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
This is my forth day out with my Lt40 and the first few day I thought I was imagining things. The major problem I have with the Kadet Lt40 is it won’t turn under full power and full speed. I notice this the worst when I’m doing a full loop and when I come out the loop try to turn the plane does nothing until I bleed some air speed off. The only way to do this is to gain attitude and power back. The plane at low speed is fine and glides beautifully in for nice landings.
Is it just the way the plane is designed, So be honest I’m getting a little board flying just circuits the only problem is I don’t feel confidant that the plane is going to go the way I point it under aerobatic situations. Oh.. BTW the Kadet has a Thunder tiger 46fx on it.
As a second question what would be a nice plane I can do rolls and spins in?. I like the low wing design aerobatic planes they look like fun are they hard to fly?.
Is it just the way the plane is designed, So be honest I’m getting a little board flying just circuits the only problem is I don’t feel confidant that the plane is going to go the way I point it under aerobatic situations. Oh.. BTW the Kadet has a Thunder tiger 46fx on it.
As a second question what would be a nice plane I can do rolls and spins in?. I like the low wing design aerobatic planes they look like fun are they hard to fly?.
#3
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
I have them at 130 percent allready.... The only thing non-standard I did was change the wing angle down by 2 degrees.
I read in a few places that it help stop the LT40 from balloning, And have to say I havn't had that problem...
Moving the CG would that help???
What about the
Great planes - Easy sport 40 arf or the extra 300s in the 40 size are they easy planes to fly?
I read in a few places that it help stop the LT40 from balloning, And have to say I havn't had that problem...
Moving the CG would that help???
What about the
Great planes - Easy sport 40 arf or the extra 300s in the 40 size are they easy planes to fly?
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From: Sterling , CO
Dogz
I do not know what to tell you . My lt 40 fly,s inverted spins loups and what ever i want it to. Changing the CG will make it do what you want it to do. Foword more response , rear less. Will do what a trainer is built for and more
FLY SAFE LIVE LONG
I do not know what to tell you . My lt 40 fly,s inverted spins loups and what ever i want it to. Changing the CG will make it do what you want it to do. Foword more response , rear less. Will do what a trainer is built for and more
FLY SAFE LIVE LONG
#6
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Sounds like you have too much slop in your control linkages, and they are binding under higher air loads. Make sure your pushrods are well supported and you can get full servo travel while pushing on the surfaces to give a little resistance. If you are ready to venture into aerobatics, a 4*40 or Mid Star 40 are excellent choices. The Mid Star will overrotate at the completion of a long spin while the 4* does not, but I actually like flying the Mid Star more.
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From: Newburyport,
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Hi Dogz,I had the same problem with my Senior Telemaster.Turn left or right shoving the stick all the way over,she would take her sweet time turning in either direction.What I did was increase the aileron deflection.Or check the control rod that incerts into the ailerons for any loose play.If those rods are loose,flood the hole with gap filling CA or epoxy and let set over night.Is your LT 40 an ARF or kit?And also you could modifie the wing for duel aileron servos.
Your second question,my opinion for a good airobatic plane for a second plane would be a funfly type plane.Something like an Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 or a Sig Fazer.Hope this helps.
Your second question,my opinion for a good airobatic plane for a second plane would be a funfly type plane.Something like an Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 or a Sig Fazer.Hope this helps.
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From: Athol,
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Have flown quite a few lt 40's and if everything like the control surfaces and balance are right you can do quite a lot. Find some one in your club or other experianced person and i'll bet the problem is solved. ( is the plane heavy?)
#9
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Chrisdodge the LT40 was a kit... I did notice a small gap were the aileron wire run parrelel to the wing, It worked on the ground so I did think much more about it.
I will look at the ailerons make sure there tight..
I will look at the ailerons make sure there tight..
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Gizmo,
I had the instuctor trim the plane in, His comment were the he thought the wings were flexing and the plane is not made to do loops.....
I had the instuctor trim the plane in, His comment were the he thought the wings were flexing and the plane is not made to do loops.....
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From: Drouin, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
How about building a new plane, may be a DPS or SPADstick might be more what you need.
www.spadtothebone.com
www.spadtothebone.com
#12
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Originally posted by Dogz
Gizmo,
I had the instuctor trim the plane in, His comment were the he thought the wings were flexing and the plane is not made to do loops.....
Gizmo,
I had the instuctor trim the plane in, His comment were the he thought the wings were flexing and the plane is not made to do loops.....
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From: Woodward, IA
As for the LT-40 not being able to do loops:
Sunday, I was doing multiple loops in mine. Trying to get the hang of a real round loop. I was in about my 6th one and the back of my muffler fell off. While I was vertical.
My engine immediately quit, and it is amazing how easily this plane will snap without power, although recovery is just as easy.
It was my best landing all day.
Sunday, I was doing multiple loops in mine. Trying to get the hang of a real round loop. I was in about my 6th one and the back of my muffler fell off. While I was vertical.
My engine immediately quit, and it is amazing how easily this plane will snap without power, although recovery is just as easy.
It was my best landing all day.
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From: EU
if your ailerons have suficient travel at low speed to control the plane and the airplane refuse to turn at hig speed this can only mean the ailerons doesn't move at hig speed, if ailerons doesn't move at hig speed this mean your ailerons linkages are not strong enough and bend ( if you used the linkages provided in box they should be ok !!!, lt40 is certainly not a jet and bending the piano wires provided will make you wing broken in flight first..)
So my suggestion is to look at your servo, is your servo strong enough?
So my suggestion is to look at your servo, is your servo strong enough?
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From: Terrell,
TX
RC Outlaw,think you have the c/g advice backwards. If the plane is nose heavy the plane will be more stable in flight,if to nose heavy the there will not be enough elevator control to fly. Tail heavy, the plane will be more responsive with the control inputs,to tail heavy the plane will be to pitch sensitive to fly.
Dogz, if you'll build the plane by the prints you'll have a great flying plane,if you bash or change the flight design then you'll probably have a dog,either your controls are loose,flexing or not moving enough,you said 130%,you need to see how much they move up and down,use a ruler if thats all you have.If you can't do all the basics and more with the trainer,then moving up three or four planes on the learning scale is something you will not enjoy. check out; www.geistware.com
Dogz, if you'll build the plane by the prints you'll have a great flying plane,if you bash or change the flight design then you'll probably have a dog,either your controls are loose,flexing or not moving enough,you said 130%,you need to see how much they move up and down,use a ruler if thats all you have.If you can't do all the basics and more with the trainer,then moving up three or four planes on the learning scale is something you will not enjoy. check out; www.geistware.com
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From: Ashburn, VA
I have an LT-40 ARF and I had two separate aileron issues.
The first was that I didn't seal the gap between the aileron and the wing with tape.
The second (unrelated) was that one of the torque rods had dug into the inside of the aileron and created a lot of play. I think I didn't use enough epoxy when I connected them. This almost cause a crash as I could only turn to the left. If your ailerons wiggle then you may have this problem.
The first was that I didn't seal the gap between the aileron and the wing with tape.
The second (unrelated) was that one of the torque rods had dug into the inside of the aileron and created a lot of play. I think I didn't use enough epoxy when I connected them. This almost cause a crash as I could only turn to the left. If your ailerons wiggle then you may have this problem.
#19
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I agree with Art above, your problem has to be poor installation of the aileron push rods, slop in the connection, to small push rods (they are flexing or bending under load), high friction or bad servo or bad servo mounting (servo moves in mount when under load). This plane can do most manuvers allthough not as well as a pattern plane.
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From: An Iceburg in, ANTARCTICA
Originally posted by TerrellFlyer
RC Outlaw,think you have the c/g advice backwards. If the plane is nose heavy the plane will be more stable in flight,if to nose heavy the there will not be enough elevator control to fly. Tail heavy, the plane will be more responsive with the control inputs,to tail heavy the plane will be to pitch sensitive to fly.
RC Outlaw,think you have the c/g advice backwards. If the plane is nose heavy the plane will be more stable in flight,if to nose heavy the there will not be enough elevator control to fly. Tail heavy, the plane will be more responsive with the control inputs,to tail heavy the plane will be to pitch sensitive to fly.
#21
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From: Evans,
GA
I also have a kit-built LT-40 and agree that something is very badly wrong with yours. My throws at high rates are well beyond those recommended and I am running an OS 46FX. Even at full throttle the plane will turn as tight a loop as you could want and there are no control problems. In fact one of my favorite maneuvers with it is to roll the plane while doing a big loop!
1) Run some locking nuts down on top of the plastic connectors on the aileron control wires to keep them from spinning around on the threads under load, 2) make sure the covering is good and tight since this is what gives the wings their strength on this plane and 3) check your servo connections and linkages.
If I were a betting man I would say that #1 above will fix it. I have experienced problems with aileron connectors spinning on the threads and the symptoms are very similar to what you are describing. Now I always put locking nuts on top as part of the build.
1) Run some locking nuts down on top of the plastic connectors on the aileron control wires to keep them from spinning around on the threads under load, 2) make sure the covering is good and tight since this is what gives the wings their strength on this plane and 3) check your servo connections and linkages.
If I were a betting man I would say that #1 above will fix it. I have experienced problems with aileron connectors spinning on the threads and the symptoms are very similar to what you are describing. Now I always put locking nuts on top as part of the build.
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From: EU
planes like sig king kobra (.60 size sport pattern)come me with exactly the same hardware for aileron control that the lt40. When correctly fit there is no problem, I maintain that if your setup work freely without excessive frictions at low speed, the setup will work great at hig speed, the load will only be higer and the servo can go against it.
On a plane like the LT40 i don't think you can reach speed able to overload a standard cheap servo (except during outrageaous dive) or bend piano wires.
your servo should have a problem.
that's my opinion
On a plane like the LT40 i don't think you can reach speed able to overload a standard cheap servo (except during outrageaous dive) or bend piano wires.
your servo should have a problem.
that's my opinion
#23
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Update.
I have run epoxy alone the rod connecting to the aileron and the wing and have seen some major improvement.
As mentioned here a guy at the air field said to run some contact tape top and bottom to stop the air flow between the aileron and wing. The gap in hindsight is a little large cause being my first plane didn't know how much gap to have. I checked the servo's (JR) and contacting arm to make sure the is no binding..
Ok I see how I go tomorrow with sealing the gap!.
The plane turns better but I was expecting it to be instant I have to wait 1 to 2 sec before the plane turns..
Anyway I'll update tomorrow.
I have run epoxy alone the rod connecting to the aileron and the wing and have seen some major improvement.
As mentioned here a guy at the air field said to run some contact tape top and bottom to stop the air flow between the aileron and wing. The gap in hindsight is a little large cause being my first plane didn't know how much gap to have. I checked the servo's (JR) and contacting arm to make sure the is no binding..
Ok I see how I go tomorrow with sealing the gap!.
The plane turns better but I was expecting it to be instant I have to wait 1 to 2 sec before the plane turns..
Anyway I'll update tomorrow.
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From: Athol,
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Well I've flown them upside down, loops rolls, they will do almost anything any trainer can possibly do. My flying buddy has a Lt 75, thats a Lt40 with a Magnum 75 and one wing bay removed off each side, no dihedral. A real fun plane. never heard of wing flexing? I give up.
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From: Mosinee,
WI
I THINKYOU SHOULD SEAL THE GAPS BETWEEN THE WING AND AILERONS. iTS MY EXOERIENCE THAT UNRESPONSIVE AILERONS CAN COME FROM AIRFLOW DISRUPTSION CAUSING DRAG IN THE WRONG DIRECTION CANCELING OUT YOUR CONTROL INPUTS.


