Hello guys!

I was wondering if i had to buy one of those 9V starters to actually start up a nitro motor (plane). Or can you just twirl the prop to get it going?

Thanks!
-Mike-

A glow engine is not like a normal engine with a Starter/ignition system. Glow plugs need to be "heated" Before they will work. There is where the Glow plug Comes in. (The battery thing)

Once the engine is started and warmed up the glow plug will stay hot and continue to keep the engine running. But yes, A glow Plug (Battery thing) Is required to start the engine

Theoretically a glow engine can start without having to put a source to heat the glow plug, but you're talking about somewhere in the vicinity of 10,000 to 1 that you can actually get it started. In the real world you're going to have apply 1.5 volts (not 9 volts) to heat the glow plug so that you can get the motor started. 1.5 volts will be provided by the smaller cordless glow drivers available, while power panels use a higher voltage that is "pulsed" so that it doesn't burn out the glow plug. If you apply a full 9 volts directly to the glow plug you will burn it out. Once the motor is running the heat of combustion keeps the glow plug hot.

Hope this helps

Ken

Are you talking about a 12v starter? You can use what they call a chicken stick, but a starter is easier for me. Probably safer too.

Well i know about the little glow plug starters (the one's that warm the glow plug up...) but i was wondering if i need one of these...... [link=http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t255487p1/]http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t255487p1/[/link]

Even if i do need one of these, why can't you just flick the propeller in the circular motion to get the engine to turn over???

Thnaks for your help!!

If the engine is properly tuned and primed, you can start it with a few flips of the prop. That's what you strive for in setting up an engine. Until you reach that point, a good blast from an electric starter will save you a lot of time and effort.

If i Just buy a brand new engine could i just flip the prop?

if not could i take it to a local hobby place and have them tune it for me?

You haven't mentioned what size engine you plan to start. The smaller engines are often hand started by experienced modelers. And the very large ones as well. But some are real killers and nobody with any brains tries to start them. but.........

Fill up the fuel tank, finger choke the engine to insure that fuel is being drawn into the engine and that there is some in the engine, connect a glowplug igniter (the battery thingie), and then some very experienced flyers can start their engines with just their hands by flipping the prop.

Some guys who're familiar with the proceedure can start their engines with just a power source for the glowplug and their hands. They either flip the prop in the direction it turns with the engine running, or they "back flip" it, or they "bump" it. And some "snap" the spinner and not the prop. But all of them have the right prop on the engine, a sensible start position for the needle setting, and are familiar with the safety precautions that keep them relatively safe. Oh yeah, and some of them wear safety gloves or use a chicken stick. And most all of them have cut their hands or fingers in the past, some badly.

What size engine? What prop have you put on it?

A starter is going to save you a lot of time with a new engine, plus flipping the prop is scarey. In theory it's no big deal but once that thing starts turning you get real careful real fast.

Your local hobby shop is unlikely to help you tune your engine. You'd do better to find a flying field in your area.

A new engine will often start with a flip of the prop if all the instructions supplied with the engine are followed to the letter. But a new engine needs to be broken in before it can be properly tuned, a process that can take several tankfuls of fuel, and during the break-in process, while you're fiddling with the adjustment screws, it's possible the engine will at times be reluctant to start. You can get through this period without an electric starter, but your flipping fingers may get very tired.

You should take seriously the advice here about flipping by hand. The engine doesn't have to be running to damage your fingers--some of those non-starts hurt the most.

well i havn't bought an engine yet. but i plane on buying maybe a .40????

I also heard that a cordless drill will work...is that true??

Most cordless drill doesn't provide enough RPMs to start a glow engine reliably.
For a beginner, a 12V starter motor is a nice gadget.
My preferred starting method is hand flipping. If one knows how to prime the engine properly and have a good flipping technique, 1-2 flips should get the engine running. A chicken stick is a good thing, especially if you are dealing with 4-stroke engines.

/Red B.

I mjust be pretty lucky, I have a 1.20 that I will put on my hell cat when I get my wings, anyway a freiend that drives rc cars was helping me start it up on the work bench, once we ran it for a min, we shut it off and took the glow start off (didn't want to lose a few fingers taking it off this beast), we made a few adjustments and turned the engine over slowly to prime it and took off with the start removed, my friend just about peed his pants when this happened. The start still wasn't on it even after a min. of tinkering, my friend wont even help me with it now. I dont know why though.

Lesson learned always treat an engine as if it will start[sm=biggrin.gif]

I've seen folks use a leather glove as well. Just mind that back edge of the APC props if you don't sand it down when new when you're hand starting - sharp as a knife if not dulled a little. I was hand flipping my prop and it bounced off the compression and rotated backwards and the edge stopped in the edge of my index finger. Cut about 1/3 in to the tip of my finger and nail. [:@]

somegeek

Well, When the engine is bought ofcourse it needs break-in, and its possible when the engine starts. 12volt electric torque starter is a good choice, and what I experience, once engine is started and gets heat up, ofcourse after refueling it doesnt need electric starter, with the flip of chicken stick it starts. That glow plug connector (battery thing) or charger needs to be attached then start flipping, and while flipping and choking the carb, throttle on radio should be at full, if its on stand then it would still needed to be full once the fuel enters in the fuel line then reduce the throttle and start. Its how I start my engine which is Evolution .45 I hope, its my little experience.

Mody

I have been flying RC for about 15 years now and I still don't own an electric starter. Once you get the hang of starting them by hand, the electric starter and it's battery are just so much more needless weight in your field box.

The key is pre-start preparation. Close the carb inlet with your finger and turn the prop a few times until you see the fuel in the fuel line reach the carb and then do a couple of more flips to get the engine wet inside with fuel. Now close the throttle to a fast idle, light the glow plug, and give the engine a flip with a stick of some kind. I keep a piece of garden hose in my box for that purpose. The throttle at fast idle is not just for safety, the engines are actually easier to start when the throttle is not open too far.

An alternative way to prime the engine is to stop up the exhaust outlet with your finger while flipping the prop. This causes the exhaust to pressurize the fuel tank and force fuel to the carb. This is a good way to prime 4-strokes and other engines with inaccessable carbs.

The backflip method works well on the larger two strokes and is the best way to start four stroke engines. Here, you grab the spinner with your fingertips and spin the engine backward. You do not try to spin the engine through it's compression stroke. You just give the prop enough momentum so that it goes just far enough into the compression stroke to get the fuel to ignite. The explosion reverses the engine's rotation and the engine is running forward.

As far as safety is concerned, most of the really bad accidents happen with engines that are already running, i.e. adjusting the needle. An electric plane can hurt you just as badly as a glow engine. If you are flying electric, treat that prop as if it could start any minute by surprise.

B.L.E.'s method is pretty similar to what I do. My starters rarely go to the field. About the only time I bring them is when I bring one of the few engines I have that are known to be difficult to hand start. One example is the 3.5cc K&B rear exhaust engine that I have on my Shrike. It's got an oversized carb and the piston to sleeve fit is still so tight it can stall a starter. As I run it more I can hand start it more often, but sometimes it just needs a starter. None of my sport engines need an electric starter.

I do the same as Piper_chuck and BLE. I do carry my starter to the field, but I almost never use it. I prefer to start my motors with a chicken stick. Once you learn how to properly prime your motors you'll almost never use your electric starter again.

Ken

As for using a cordless drill - NO! First they usually don't have the speed to do the jod. Then you sould need to put an adaptor on the shaft to properly drive the spinner/prop/hub of choice safely. Then when you get frustrated and throw it at the plane it gets real expensive. The cost of modifying a drill exceeds buying a purpose built unit from a LHS or mail order store. Additionally one should be able to borrow one at the field occasionally once you join a club.

I shouldn't but I have too. I really feel all beginners should learn with starters. With out one it can be so frustrating that some to most will quit the sport and/or go electric. It’s like telling newbe to buy a cox plastic C/L to learn how to fly an most will quit. Starters WORK and they are safer than hand starting. A sign of experience is flip starting, to start but not the first time to the field.
BTW Ken I hope in your beginners sticky you recommend electric starters
Rich

????? What sticky are you referring to???

Ken

Maybe he means that FAQ sticky we all worked on that hasn't materialized yet.

The one you were going to divide up in Toledo and then polish up and post.

Or have I just missed it?

Ahhh, ok. that one. Yes, we are working on it. Sorry about that, totally slipped my mind.

Ken

Been there, done that! Ouch!

/Red B.

The only time you'll really need your electric starter is when you leave it home. The only time you'll cut your finger on the prop is when you're hand is wet with fuel. The only time you hand start an engine is when you forgot how much it hurts and costs when a backfire bites you good. I've watched my old man in my youth who never owned an electric starter, hand start all engines of all sizes and that's how I started out. But over 40, the healing process takes a long time. I'm just not ready to patch up a deep cut over a hobby. My old man got most of his scars from tuning, that is most, but not all. I like to go home relaxed. No electric starter will turn a gas motor that I'm aware of, so a welders glove goes with me for those and I smack it over without a thought. the smaller engines usually are the fussy ones in some cases. I typically use an electric starter in the morning, and then hand start it warm after that if I'm feeling alert. After 33 years of starting engines, I've only been bite once, by a .051 TeeDee engine. I can handle that. Today, flying .40 and .60 sized planes, I don't want to think about the risk of an emergency room visit to look macho. $20 for an electric starter is a lot cheaper than a first aid kit.