May sound stupid but I want to know as much as I can before meeting with my instructor, I don't want to be a total idiot. I got a tower trainer 40 with an O.S. .46fx. It was a kit deal ARF from TH.

First thing, I have a hole/rip in my towerkote on the fuse. I don't know if our cat was trying to help or my kids. But anyway I have something to fix. Now How do I? Just some towerkote and "tape" over it? It is in an area with no balsa.

Second, what should I use to get fuel into the fuel tank? Squirt bottle, hand crank pump, or elec. fuel pump?

Third, use after run oil, wd-40, or don't worry about it?

Fourth, should I use an air filter? I hope to have my own runway which will be part grass, part dirt and part sand.

Do I need an ESV voltmeter?

Should I go ahead and set up a "Billy Box". Named after Billy Hell using a black & decker master cart. BTW it really looks great Billy, or should I say Mr. Hell.(since I am a newbie)

Last, but not least, I want to thank you all. I "watch" and read as much as I can from you guys. You are all so helpfull and nice.
(that was my brown nose job so you won't hammer down on me)

Did you guys see DIY's Chris C. with that trainer show? My wife and kids kept giving me crap about it taking him an hour and me since x-mas. I tried to explain it but they never listen, I've been "fixing" it up for quite a while. Once I get it all balanced out I'll be ready. cant wait!!!

First, congrats on making the decision to get started. Not a bad plane to start with either. That's the exact plane I soloed with but mine was a kit (not ARF). I take it the rip in the Towerkote is in the rear of the fuse? If it's not terribly big, just use some clear packing tape. If it's big, like a couple inches, take it to your instructor for repairs.
I'd recommend after-run oil but not After-Run oil. Make sense?? Use Marvel Mystery air tool oil. It's a lot cheaper than the bottle marked "After-Run" oil. You don't have to use it after every time out as long as the plane doesn't sit around for more than a couple days.
The air filter is your choice. I don't use one and either does anyone else at our field. Our field is grass and it doesn't seem to be a problem. I'm sure my engines have ingested a few bugs though.
Set-up a field box. The "Billy box" is a good idea.
Hope that helps.

Im not sure how big the rip is, but if its minor just some packing tape will do. If its major, id go from wood to wood.
If you got enough cash and planning on sticking with the hobby, get a electric pump. I have a bulb, hand pump and the electric..Got them all at a yard sale with a flight box. An inexpensive way around a filter would be to get some of the wifes old nylon stockings cut a piece, double it over..then cover the throat of the carb and "cable tie" it on. As far as after run oil, I use marvel mystery oil, some use transmission fluid. something to check voltage is a must , remember to check your batteries after each flight, better safe then sorry. Lastly, if you wanna build a cart go for it...
Oops somone already answered you.

lets have a go at these.


if its a small hole then some packing tape will hold for a short patch.

to repair it more permenently just lay a peice of *kote (*pick your favorite brand) over the patch about an inch larger then the hole on all sides. use a covering iron to seal it and shrick it snug.

yes, yes, or yes. any of these will work. I use a hand crank pump. (eletrics seem to wear out faster.)

dont use WD-40. it might attack some of the seals in the engine.

for a cheap afterrun you can use automatic transmision fluid or "marvel mystrey oil" (found in hardware stores for use in air tools).

unless you dont plan on flying for a few weeks you shouldnt need afterrun. just make sure you run you engine out of fuel then crank it a few more times with the glow plug ignitor on to burn up any exess fuel.
you can but unless your runway is really dusty your plane wont be exposed to that much dust. you may want a small screen on it to keep dirt out in case of a "mishap" or off runway excursions.

this is a good idea. its good to check your voltages before you fly. you want to get one that puts a "load" on the battery. I use one that is a combo tach and volt meter.

I have one of those. I acually bought mine before I saw the thread by billy, then converted it afterwards.

as for what to call him, you can just call him that funny looking guy that flys those weird flat planes

welcome to the hobby. have a fun and safe time.

Good choice of engine. You won't need more than 1/2 throttle while you are learning. It will be a perfect engine for your second plane.

with your engine choice, I would suggest an 11x5 prop instead of the standard newbie 10x6 prop. It will keep the speed of the plane down a bit, increase the torque, and slow the plane down a bit better.
I agree with the packing tape. It seems to be the best thing for small tears on "sticky-backed" covered airplanes, which I believe the Tower Trainer is.
I like the hand crank fuel pumps the best. I had an electric and it didn't last long.
I use Hobbico after run oil....I know I'm getting ripped off but it was only $2.50....I've used marvel mystery oil in the past also.
I would definitely recommend a voltmeter.

Have fun!!

Mike

"I like the hand crank fuel pumps the best. I had an electric and it didn't last long. "


Electric pumps often need priming, which is a royal pain.

Just two things...

1 You really don't need an air filter.

2 You really don't need after run oil.

I may get some flack from that last remark, but I've never used the stuff, and I've had engines sit for years with no signs of rust.

I think the nylon is good....where there is sand is an engine waiting to be ruined...IMO

Each to there own: I use an air filter,also use after run oil after each day of starting the engine,I have seen what crud can do to an engine,also seen how much rust could gather on a set of bearings in less than a week. An esv has saved more than one plane,every couple of flights I check my batteries.

Your instructor will be your best bet for repair advice unless you post pix.

Elec. pumps are nice, go ahead and get a manual also, someday youll need it.

Air tool oil works, I use AT fluid.
I used to use nothing, for my 1st 2 yrs, then, BAM! Bearings are not nearly as easy to install as oil, trust me here. Now I have a one week rule, if no fli, earl it down.

We dont use air filters at our field, at least I dont ever remember seeing one. As far as I know, its never caused any problems, though I dont see how it could hurt either.

Dont go fly unless theres a voltmeter available to you.

Million different boxes out there, get what suits you.
WELCOME!!!!!

Lone:

Air cleaners? After run oiling? Do as you please. I did.

I flew in a dusty area, so after a little searching I started using "Bru-Line" fine mesh air cleaners on all the engines I could. Some engines have inlet nubbins too short to mount one, you can "Shrink" a short brass tube on it, then the Bru-line will mount.

My oldest Saito, "Iron Annie," is the old "Big-Fin" version 1.20, with the smaller rear main bearing. It's about ten years old, original piston ring still in service.

And I never did use after run oil.

Then I noticed several of my engines making awful noises. Mains gone.

A few hundred dollars later, for bearing replacements, I became an after-run oil disciple.

The Bru-Line filters can be had from Tower Hobbies and others. And my after run oil comes out of the same barrel as "Air Tool Oil" and "After Run Oil," but I take it out of the tap that says "Dexron II Automatic Transmission Fluid."

STP, DuPont Golden Seven, Motor Medic, Motor Honey, Shaler's Rislone Concentrate. Again, same barrel, different labels and prices. Take your choice.

And if your choice is to use an air filter and A-R oil, from whatever source, I think you'll be happier in the long run.

Without, your new engine's fast.
. But with, you'll find it will last.

Bill.

I didn't see anyone mention that you should clean the area you need to patch with rubbing alcohol before applying the packaging tape or a new piece of covering. Nothing seems to stick unless you clean up the area completely fre of all oil.

Rick AE9D

About patching. A note about Monokote. It requires the highest heat setting on your iron to apply it correctly. If you're plane is covered with Towerkote or other lower temp covering, I would advise against using monokote to patch the tear. High heat settings will melt some covering material. Good luck and happy flying

Johnc1go is right. After 2 hard years of instructing with my H9 Solo Sport, the edges of the shelf paper covering where all starting to come up. Especially where there was a lot of oil exposure. I just got done sealing all of the edges with clear Ultracote. I could only have my iron on 1/3 setting or I would melt the shelf paper instantly. Also I was trying to get some bumps out so I put the heat gun on it - big mistake The heat gun took the bumps out alright, also started to melt it and turned it brown. This was only with a one second application.