new trainer
#1
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From: scranton,
PA
I finally bought a trainer and it is a tower trainer 40 arf. It seems pretty solid and well built, but the covering is pretty bad. It is all bubbled up and wrinkled. I am still looking forward to putting it together and learning to fly finally but before i start, how can i get rid of those damb bubbles and wrinkles?
#3
Yep, get yourself a heat gun at your local hobby store (you can always borrow one from a club member but it is a useful tool to have)
A hair dryer will not work, it doesn't get hot enough.
Work your way accross were the wrinkles are and don't stay in one spot for long.
Tower Trainer is a fine airplane and will serve you well.
You are going to get with a local club right?
A hair dryer will not work, it doesn't get hot enough.
Work your way accross were the wrinkles are and don't stay in one spot for long.
Tower Trainer is a fine airplane and will serve you well.
You are going to get with a local club right?
#5
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From: scranton,
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I will try to get with a local club as soon as i can and an ama membership. I have a heat gun so i will try to work on the covering. Thanks for the replies.
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From: Yukon,
OK
Might behoove you to get a heat mitt as well. Gently rubbing over the spots as they start to shrink helps, but most times its too hot to put your hand on firmly. Also, *****ing the bubbles with a straight pin, then heating them, will give the hot gas a place to go, so the bubble can totally disappear. just my .02
#7
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WARNING........
Heat gun is excellent advice, HOWEVER.....
You really need an iron too. No matter how expert you can get with a heat gun, the covering on ARFs has been installed by people who only have to get it placed properly. The seams and overlaps are not reliably stuck. Most are, but it's not safe to assume that all are. If you don't go over all the seams and overlaps with an iron first, you WILL discover that the heat from a gun will pull covering apart at some seams.
Get an iron and use it first. All you gotta do with it is insure that the seams are down, but you'd best do that with every ARF. Every one.
Heat gun is excellent advice, HOWEVER.....
You really need an iron too. No matter how expert you can get with a heat gun, the covering on ARFs has been installed by people who only have to get it placed properly. The seams and overlaps are not reliably stuck. Most are, but it's not safe to assume that all are. If you don't go over all the seams and overlaps with an iron first, you WILL discover that the heat from a gun will pull covering apart at some seams.
Get an iron and use it first. All you gotta do with it is insure that the seams are down, but you'd best do that with every ARF. Every one.
#8
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BTW, the gun is by far the fastest, safest, and best shrinking tool.
Once the seams are stuck down for sure.....
It is real easy to put exactly the right amount of heat on the covering with a gun. Start with it "too far away" from a loose, wrinkled area. Bring it closer until the wrinkles shrink. You've just discovered the distance the gun needs to be to put the right amount of heat to the work. It's worthwhile to only put that much heat on the job. Too much heat can burn through.
As soon as you've found the right distance and that area has tightened up, start moving the gun. It's a waste of time to dwell over "finished work". It's also risky. So start moving the heat. As you move it, you'll notice the new areas of covering respond. You'll now be able to figure how fast to move the heat.
You've got a safe distance, just the right amount of heat, and you're moving just as fast as the covering will allow. Ain't nothin' can do better.
But seal the seams first with an iron. A gun can't do that job worth spit.
Once the seams are stuck down for sure.....
It is real easy to put exactly the right amount of heat on the covering with a gun. Start with it "too far away" from a loose, wrinkled area. Bring it closer until the wrinkles shrink. You've just discovered the distance the gun needs to be to put the right amount of heat to the work. It's worthwhile to only put that much heat on the job. Too much heat can burn through.
As soon as you've found the right distance and that area has tightened up, start moving the gun. It's a waste of time to dwell over "finished work". It's also risky. So start moving the heat. As you move it, you'll notice the new areas of covering respond. You'll now be able to figure how fast to move the heat.
You've got a safe distance, just the right amount of heat, and you're moving just as fast as the covering will allow. Ain't nothin' can do better.
But seal the seams first with an iron. A gun can't do that job worth spit.
#9

ORIGINAL: hobbyenthusiast
I have a heat gun so i will try to work on the covering.
I have a heat gun so i will try to work on the covering.
You can get one that operates in the correct temp range fairly cheap at the LHS
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJD39&P=ML
and not melt thru your covering.
BTW, it's normal for ARF's and RTF's to arrive wrinkled like that. Usually the instructions will tell you to take out the wrinkles - it's expected by them too.
Also, this is a typical iron.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB357&P=7
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From: Tracy,
CA
Darock is right on the money! Especially with the Tower Trainer. It is a great Trainer plane but was absolutely the worst ARF I have ever owned when it comes to the covering job. If you just get after it with the heat gun first, it will pull the covering away from just about any & every seam you get close to with the heat. I would definitely head his advice & go over it with the iron first. You 'll also be amazed at how much of the wrinkles & bubbles you can get rid of with just the iron once you figure out the sweet spot on the temp adjustment. I found that mine works best at just a little past 12 O'clock on the dial.
Don't start out too hot, & be patient it takes some time to get it right, but it will work. Then you can allways go over it with the heat gun for big problem areas after making sure you have sealed all the edges & seams with the iron. Good luck.
Don't start out too hot, & be patient it takes some time to get it right, but it will work. Then you can allways go over it with the heat gun for big problem areas after making sure you have sealed all the edges & seams with the iron. Good luck.
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From: scranton,
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The heat gun worked well and i got rid of most of the bubbles and wrinkles.The new problem is that the holes on the rubber stopper for the fuel tank do not align correctly with the two metal parts that squeeze it together to seal it . The holes are really off. Should i just buy a new tank or try to get a replacement from tower?
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From: Minneapolis,
MN
I had a Tower Trainer a while back as well. Really flew nice but the covering was definitely the worst. You might as well pull every piece of colored covering off the wing because it's going to come off. It was kind of fun to watch it peel off like streamers mid-flight. If you had a couple of them in the air you could probably have some combat fights to cut the hanging wing covering.
#14

ORIGINAL: hobbyenthusiast
The heat gun worked well and i got rid of most of the bubbles and wrinkles.The new problem is that the holes on the rubber stopper for the fuel tank do not align correctly with the two metal parts that squeeze it together to seal it . The holes are really off. Should i just buy a new tank or try to get a replacement from tower?
The heat gun worked well and i got rid of most of the bubbles and wrinkles.The new problem is that the holes on the rubber stopper for the fuel tank do not align correctly with the two metal parts that squeeze it together to seal it . The holes are really off. Should i just buy a new tank or try to get a replacement from tower?



