Sig Piper Cub 1/6, help needed on setting and flying it.
#1
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From: Norfolk,
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I'm finishing my Sig 1/6 Piper Cub kit, and I would appreciate some help setting it.
Would it be a good idea mixing ailerons to rudder? If so, can anyone please give me some advice on how to program it in a Futaba 6EXAP radio? Not the procedure itself, what I need is the amount or percent of mixixng. Any leads you can give will be very appreciated.
Other question is regarding flying it, or rather taking off. I've read often in this forum about the "ruder input" needed at take off, however I would like to know why is it needed, or in what conditions.
Thanks in anticipation!
Would it be a good idea mixing ailerons to rudder? If so, can anyone please give me some advice on how to program it in a Futaba 6EXAP radio? Not the procedure itself, what I need is the amount or percent of mixixng. Any leads you can give will be very appreciated.
Other question is regarding flying it, or rather taking off. I've read often in this forum about the "ruder input" needed at take off, however I would like to know why is it needed, or in what conditions.
Thanks in anticipation!
#2
First of all a Cub is not a good plane to use as a trainer.
It is a very responsive airplane and not all that easy to fly even though it has a !QUOT!high wing!QUOT!.
With that said let me try to answer your question.
I have an older 60's vintage sig 1/6 cub which was designed to have a good amount of dihedral built in as it was set up for free flight, or three channel operation.
When I built mine, I removed a lot of the dihedral as it was built with ailerons and was going to use a four channel radio. If they still have the plane set up with the 2 inches of dihedral you can fly it on rudder alone, if you are using the 7/16 inch figure, you will have to make co-ordinated turns with it. The the reason you hear so much about rudder input with the cub is that on the ground it is very directionally unstable and will often turn to the left due to the engine torque. As it is a tail dragger it is necessary to use a lot of rudder to keep it on the centerline during take off to avoid the oft discussed ground loop that cubs are know to do. Also until you get some speed up the rudder is not all that responsive and you have to make what seems like large movements of the rudder as you start to roll, as you pick up speed the rudder becomes more responsive so only slight movement make it yaw fast. This is one thing that is a bit hard to get a handle on but becomes automatic with experience flying. Now I am not slamming the cub it is a nice plane and i have a couple of the myself , any tail dragger has the same problem and that is why most trainers are set up with trike gear they are much easier to handle on the ground.
It is my opinion that computer mixing used when learning to fly is a bad thing. But that is just my opinion....
It is a very responsive airplane and not all that easy to fly even though it has a !QUOT!high wing!QUOT!.
With that said let me try to answer your question.
I have an older 60's vintage sig 1/6 cub which was designed to have a good amount of dihedral built in as it was set up for free flight, or three channel operation.
When I built mine, I removed a lot of the dihedral as it was built with ailerons and was going to use a four channel radio. If they still have the plane set up with the 2 inches of dihedral you can fly it on rudder alone, if you are using the 7/16 inch figure, you will have to make co-ordinated turns with it. The the reason you hear so much about rudder input with the cub is that on the ground it is very directionally unstable and will often turn to the left due to the engine torque. As it is a tail dragger it is necessary to use a lot of rudder to keep it on the centerline during take off to avoid the oft discussed ground loop that cubs are know to do. Also until you get some speed up the rudder is not all that responsive and you have to make what seems like large movements of the rudder as you start to roll, as you pick up speed the rudder becomes more responsive so only slight movement make it yaw fast. This is one thing that is a bit hard to get a handle on but becomes automatic with experience flying. Now I am not slamming the cub it is a nice plane and i have a couple of the myself , any tail dragger has the same problem and that is why most trainers are set up with trike gear they are much easier to handle on the ground.
It is my opinion that computer mixing used when learning to fly is a bad thing. But that is just my opinion....
#3
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Iron eagle, thanks for your response regarding the use of the rudder. I just read that a lot of rudder input was needed, but didn't know the reasons.
I'm not learning to fly in this plane, this is actually my 4th plane (2 kits before and 1 arf). I'm still a beginner, though, that's why I asked my question in this forum.
I just wanted to make things simple, that is the reason about my question about mixing ailerons/rudder.
Thanks!
I'm not learning to fly in this plane, this is actually my 4th plane (2 kits before and 1 arf). I'm still a beginner, though, that's why I asked my question in this forum.
I just wanted to make things simple, that is the reason about my question about mixing ailerons/rudder.
Thanks!
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From: Keller, TX
rinoldi
The rudder on a Cub is powerful, you do not need "a lot". You do need to use rudder, however. I recommend you not program in rudder to aileron, just use the the left stick in the appropriate amount to keep turns smooth and without "tail droop". Fly the plane, you will enjoy it all the more.
Rudder at take off is basically to steer the plane, countering the left turn influence of engine torque and P factor as the plane climbs out.
Another suggeation is to set up your aileron linkage with differential, i.e., more up than down throw. The simplest way to do this with separate servos is in setting them up, set the servo arm not at 90 degrees to the aileron horn, but tilted slightly toward the wing leading edge. By doing this, the servo will drive the aileron "up" more than "down", thereby reducing adverse yaw caused by the "down" aileron. Good luck wiith your Cub, it's a good one!
The rudder on a Cub is powerful, you do not need "a lot". You do need to use rudder, however. I recommend you not program in rudder to aileron, just use the the left stick in the appropriate amount to keep turns smooth and without "tail droop". Fly the plane, you will enjoy it all the more.
Rudder at take off is basically to steer the plane, countering the left turn influence of engine torque and P factor as the plane climbs out.
Another suggeation is to set up your aileron linkage with differential, i.e., more up than down throw. The simplest way to do this with separate servos is in setting them up, set the servo arm not at 90 degrees to the aileron horn, but tilted slightly toward the wing leading edge. By doing this, the servo will drive the aileron "up" more than "down", thereby reducing adverse yaw caused by the "down" aileron. Good luck wiith your Cub, it's a good one!
#5
The Sig 1/6 Cub is a hoot to fly you will love it.
By the way when I said "a lot"I did not mean how far, I was talking about how often you move it, as in that you would be making corrections often; perhaps I should have said it in that way, to avoid confusion. As you pick up speed, the time between your corrections will be spaced further apart, and the rudder will get real strong hence my statement about very slight movement needed.
As an aside, the cub is so responsive that you can make both the model and even a full size one, dance on the ground.
Jim was right on about the aileron setup to reduce adverse yaw, but you can learn how to cancel the adverse yaw by control inputs (the rudder). All high wings fall prey to adverse yaw and a lot of full scale aircraft use the method that Jim described regarding differential in the set up of the ailerons, "more up than down".
Have fun with it...
And good luck!
By the way when I said "a lot"I did not mean how far, I was talking about how often you move it, as in that you would be making corrections often; perhaps I should have said it in that way, to avoid confusion. As you pick up speed, the time between your corrections will be spaced further apart, and the rudder will get real strong hence my statement about very slight movement needed.
As an aside, the cub is so responsive that you can make both the model and even a full size one, dance on the ground.
Jim was right on about the aileron setup to reduce adverse yaw, but you can learn how to cancel the adverse yaw by control inputs (the rudder). All high wings fall prey to adverse yaw and a lot of full scale aircraft use the method that Jim described regarding differential in the set up of the ailerons, "more up than down".
Have fun with it...
And good luck!
#6
The problem with a fixed amount of aileron to rudder mix is that the Cub wants a lot of rudder when flying near stall speed but not so much when cruising at a high speed. Push the elevator forward to unload the wing and it wants no rudder at all. Load the wing negatively in inverted flight and the rudder needs to be opposite of the ailerons. It's best to just learn to use the left stick on your radio while you fly instead of relying on mix to do it for you.
All planes, not just Cubs, need rudder for a co-ordinated turn. Practice using the rudder even on planes that "don't need" rudder and you will become a much better pilot.
All planes, not just Cubs, need rudder for a co-ordinated turn. Practice using the rudder even on planes that "don't need" rudder and you will become a much better pilot.
#7
ORIGINAL: B.L.E.
The problem with a fixed amount of aileron to rudder mix is that the Cub wants a lot of rudder when flying near stall speed but not so much when cruising at a high speed. Push the elevator forward to unload the wing and it wants no rudder at all. Load the wing negatively in inverted flight and the rudder needs to be opposite of the ailerons. It's best to just learn to use the left stick on your radio while you fly instead of relying on mix to do it for you.
All planes, not just Cubs, need rudder for a co-ordinated turn. Practice using the rudder even on planes that "don't need" rudder and you will become a much better pilot.
The problem with a fixed amount of aileron to rudder mix is that the Cub wants a lot of rudder when flying near stall speed but not so much when cruising at a high speed. Push the elevator forward to unload the wing and it wants no rudder at all. Load the wing negatively in inverted flight and the rudder needs to be opposite of the ailerons. It's best to just learn to use the left stick on your radio while you fly instead of relying on mix to do it for you.
All planes, not just Cubs, need rudder for a co-ordinated turn. Practice using the rudder even on planes that "don't need" rudder and you will become a much better pilot.



