Hello everyone. Not sure if this is the right place to post this question, but thought I would give it a try.
I have flown planes for many years, but for the last 4-5 years, I have been out of it. My planes have been in the attic for 4-5 years. I am getting back into it and wondering what sort of pre-flight maintenance I need to do to make sure I can fly them safely. Radio batteries, motor running. etc. The prop seems a lttle tight.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Michael

Yes Radio check, batteries might need to be replaced but maybe not 5 years of non use is about midlife for most nicads.
You say your prop is too tight? what do you mean? If the motor is hard to turn it probably is gummed up a little, I had a couple of old motors that where like this, one I worked loose and it ran fine, the other one I had to soak in gumout for a couple of days but it runs now.
Check your tank and fuel lines. all linkages and mounts. Treat them like you don't trust a thing and go over them with a fine tooth comb.

Radio batteries are not very expensive - I'd just go and replace them.

Like Missileman said, clean the engine with carburetor cleaner. Put some in the cylinder through the plug hole, through the exhaust (remove the muffler and put it right on the piston) and through the carb. Let is soak over night and see if it starts to loosen up. If it’s still locked, add some more cleaner and let it soak for another day or so. After it loosens up, put some after run oil (automatic transmission fluid) in the carburetor, exhaust and plug hole, and flip it over to flush out the cleaner and make sure everything is well lubricated and protected.

Check the covering and plastic parts to make sure they have not started to dry rot from the heat. If you can, remove the fuel tank and check it closely. It may have castor oil residue and have to be cleaned out. Just to be safe, just replace the fuel lines – tubing is only about $1.00/ft.

Hogflyer

Thank you everyone. Will do.

Another question. I have a old 6-7 channel Futaba Transmitter and receiver. Where can I find batteries to match what I have?

Try your local hobby shop first, if they don't have what you need Tower Hobbies should.
I bet this is the one for your transmitter
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXH347&P=ML
Check your model number. (this one is 600 mah, you can get higher. I use 2100 mah NiMH in mine)
This will fit your reciever (again you can get higher capacity if you want)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXH333&P=ML

Thanks. That's the one...

I would also test the hinges on the control surfaces, especially if they are CA hinges.

I bought a plane that had been hanging up and thought that I had checked it, an aileron fell off in flight, just so happened one of the really good pilots was flying it and he landed without incident, further inspection found the elevator was only being held on with two partially torn hinges.
I was lucky that I dodged that bullet and that plane is still flying three years later.

What they said..

Betteries are cheep insurance..

If the motors won't loosen up do a search on the crock pot method using antifreeze.

I was out for 15 years and most of my engines were a complete lock up.. The crock pot got em back to new.

Oh yeah.. some of the cheep ARF hardware can become brittle over time..

I got my Avistar from a friend who kept it in storage for 5-6 years.. I had to replace all the contol horns and clevises.

There's usually no need to resort to carb cleaner, antifreeze baths, etc to loosen up a gummed engine, rubbing or denatured alcohol (or even glow fuel) works just fine. As was suggested, pour some in the carb, through the plug hole, and in the exhaust port. Turn the engine over a bit, pour it out and put some more in. Do this several times and it'll loosen right up. Don't forget to work the carb too. Once done, I usually put it in the oven for 5-10 minutes at about 250 to evaporate any remaining fuel. Once it's cooled a bit, lube it up and it "should" be good as new. The reason for hedging is if the engine didn't have enough protection while it was stored, the bearings could be rusted. It would be worth removing the back plate to take a peek at what it looks like inside. If you see signs of rust, or the bearings feel rough before you've lubed them up, it would be worth replacing them.

Sorry I have another question.
On my Cap 232 glow fuel plane,as I said before I plan on flying that as well..... I had too much of a gap on the elevator so I had previously ironed on some monokote . That has since come off and now I see people using hinge tape. Would that be better and is it easy to apply? Which type should I get?
Sorry for all these stupid questions, but I want to make sure when I get back on the field, I know all the up-to-date technology for flying RC.
Thanks