Engine Size for 1/6 Sopwith Camel
07-23-2003 | 04:16 PM
#26
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From: Milton Freewater,
OR
Engine Size for 1/6 Sopwith Camel
I have a little information/photos on my DRI web site (needs updating) if anyone is interested.
http://webpages.charter.net/karlson/
HK
http://webpages.charter.net/karlson/
HK
07-23-2003 | 04:37 PM
#27
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From: Lester, AL
Engine Size for 1/6 Sopwith Camel
Grass Only
I stand behind it on take off to keep me ahead of it. (I don't do well on side to side takeoffs with it.)
It. is no worse than a cub model with its narrow gear (That is my other plane)
Stear on the ground by using small burst of power and down elevator to lift the tail as you give it rudder.
Once you line up for take off ease on the power and get the tail up as quick as you can
If its not going straight in the first 15 feet I come off the power and don't try to force the issue. Better to try again than loose it on take off.
The thrust offset must be good as I have yet noticed no serious swing. If you get the tail up and start straight it will go out fine.
I have only talked one person into flying it and he was surprised at how docil and grace full it is
As I said I run a Saito .56 with a 13x5 wooden prop and have yet to break it .
I use my trim to slow the model down on downwind and keep the power on. Let it sink with the throttle and cut it when you touch.
When I try to glide in with the engine at Idle it is too fast and tend to flip.
PS the model was started 25 years ago and hund in a hobby shop unflown until 2001 I finished it and have only been flying it a short while. It impressed me so much I have started the
Camel and just acquired a kit of their 1 1/2 Strutter.
I stand behind it on take off to keep me ahead of it. (I don't do well on side to side takeoffs with it.)
It. is no worse than a cub model with its narrow gear (That is my other plane)
Stear on the ground by using small burst of power and down elevator to lift the tail as you give it rudder.
Once you line up for take off ease on the power and get the tail up as quick as you can
If its not going straight in the first 15 feet I come off the power and don't try to force the issue. Better to try again than loose it on take off.
The thrust offset must be good as I have yet noticed no serious swing. If you get the tail up and start straight it will go out fine.
I have only talked one person into flying it and he was surprised at how docil and grace full it is
As I said I run a Saito .56 with a 13x5 wooden prop and have yet to break it .
I use my trim to slow the model down on downwind and keep the power on. Let it sink with the throttle and cut it when you touch.
When I try to glide in with the engine at Idle it is too fast and tend to flip.
PS the model was started 25 years ago and hund in a hobby shop unflown until 2001 I finished it and have only been flying it a short while. It impressed me so much I have started the
Camel and just acquired a kit of their 1 1/2 Strutter.
07-23-2003 | 08:06 PM
#29
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From: Milton Freewater,
OR
Engine Size for 1/6 Sopwith Camel
That's 2.78 lbs uncovered, less engine, radio uncovered and unpainted. 4 1/2 - 5 1/2 lbs would be about right.
The original engine specification for the VK WWI airplanes was for a Supertigre .61 (at least on the plans I have) which was plenty potent even by 1972 standards. One of the main reasons for such a big mill is to put as much weight up front (for CG reasons) as possible and those big bypass ported engines could swing a 12 - 13 inch prop with little problem. A .40 with a 10-6 hasn't got enough weight or enough blade area to clear the 7 1/2" cowl.
My ST 45GS ABC on glow wouldn't be enough engine, but converted to diesel and swinging a 14" prop would work just fine. Can also reduce fuel capacity by 50% in order to reduce CG changes from fuel burnoff. Just have to mount the battery pack on the front of the firewall and move the radio as close to the firewall as possible. My DRI with engine and radio should come in at 5 lbs or less. A MDS .68 may just be the ticket. My friends at the local field who have flown a few of these suggested I stick a heavier 60 size mill in the front if nothing else but for the nose weight. I dunno. I'll try the diesel route on this one just to prove some of my local flying buddies wrong.
HK
The original engine specification for the VK WWI airplanes was for a Supertigre .61 (at least on the plans I have) which was plenty potent even by 1972 standards. One of the main reasons for such a big mill is to put as much weight up front (for CG reasons) as possible and those big bypass ported engines could swing a 12 - 13 inch prop with little problem. A .40 with a 10-6 hasn't got enough weight or enough blade area to clear the 7 1/2" cowl.
My ST 45GS ABC on glow wouldn't be enough engine, but converted to diesel and swinging a 14" prop would work just fine. Can also reduce fuel capacity by 50% in order to reduce CG changes from fuel burnoff. Just have to mount the battery pack on the front of the firewall and move the radio as close to the firewall as possible. My DRI with engine and radio should come in at 5 lbs or less. A MDS .68 may just be the ticket. My friends at the local field who have flown a few of these suggested I stick a heavier 60 size mill in the front if nothing else but for the nose weight. I dunno. I'll try the diesel route on this one just to prove some of my local flying buddies wrong.
HK
