ENGINE DOESN'T FLIP OVER
#1
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From: Pittsfield,
MA
ANOTHER THREAD, ANOTHER PROBLEM:
This one involves my new engine.
It is a brand new Thunder Tiger .36, never used, never run, and never even installed on an airplane yet.
The problem is I have the propellor bolted onto the shaft as I do on my other planes, but this time the propellor does not flip over. It just stays tight and will not budge, it's just bolted on.
Here are some various photo shots at different angles. Can you tell by looking at the pics what is wrong and why the prop won't move?
Thank you for any help.
Please don't tell me the shaft is busted or anything, this engine (as I said before) has never been used.
Please help!!!
This one involves my new engine.
It is a brand new Thunder Tiger .36, never used, never run, and never even installed on an airplane yet.
The problem is I have the propellor bolted onto the shaft as I do on my other planes, but this time the propellor does not flip over. It just stays tight and will not budge, it's just bolted on.
Here are some various photo shots at different angles. Can you tell by looking at the pics what is wrong and why the prop won't move?
Thank you for any help.
Please don't tell me the shaft is busted or anything, this engine (as I said before) has never been used.
Please help!!!
#2
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From: va beach,
VA
does the engine turn over without the prop?that prop hub looks like it is close i looked at the parts breakdown for that engine at tt web page they list the prop hub as a hub kit.if you got it new like that i would call them and see about returning it for another engine.by what i see in the photos there dosen't appear to be any clearence between the hub and bearing housing.
#3
Try removing the glow plug and then trying to turn it.
Remember, when things come broken from the factory, they're called "factory defects." Things can come broken even when they're brand new, just ask anyone who owns a GM automobile!
Remember, when things come broken from the factory, they're called "factory defects." Things can come broken even when they're brand new, just ask anyone who owns a GM automobile!
#4
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From: Corona, CA
As horace said, it looks like you tightened the prop-nut far enough to seat the hub on the case. You can probably coax it off and try again, but if it's loose enough to be moved, it will move again. I would send it in and have a new hub pressed on, or you can try and do it yourself.
#5
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From: Pittsfield,
MA
I just removed the prop and nut and it does not flip. The prop hub moves back and forth and it makes the popping noise that it supposed to when it flips over but thats all it does is moves back and forth and then stops.
Took the glowplug off, the hub moved back and forth a few times making the popping noise like it was trying to flip over, now it don't move at all.
So the engine is no good even though it was never used. And nobody takes returns on engines so I am stuck. And I don't know about any warranties but I am sure I am out of luck there too.
Took the glowplug off, the hub moved back and forth a few times making the popping noise like it was trying to flip over, now it don't move at all.
So the engine is no good even though it was never used. And nobody takes returns on engines so I am stuck. And I don't know about any warranties but I am sure I am out of luck there too.
#6
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From: Pittsfield,
MA
ORIGINAL: agexpert
As horace said, it looks like you tightened the prop-nut far enough to seat the hub on the case. You can probably coax it off and try again, but if it's loose enough to be moved, it will move again. I would send it in and have a new hub pressed on, or you can try and do it yourself.
As horace said, it looks like you tightened the prop-nut far enough to seat the hub on the case. You can probably coax it off and try again, but if it's loose enough to be moved, it will move again. I would send it in and have a new hub pressed on, or you can try and do it yourself.
No, when I take the nut and prop off the hub pops right off, but when its on now it doesnt even turn by hand.
#7
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ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
So the engine is no good even though it was never used. And nobody takes returns on engines so I am stuck. And I don't know about any warranties but I am sure I am out of luck there too.
So the engine is no good even though it was never used. And nobody takes returns on engines so I am stuck. And I don't know about any warranties but I am sure I am out of luck there too.
By the way, I agree with Agexpert, it looks as if you have bottomed the thrust washer into the case jaming it. If there was a spacer missing behind the thrust washer, You may have also bound the crank by squeesing the bearings tight. SEND IT BACK.
Don
#8
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Tigerdude,
If you are sure the crank/ hub are moving back and forth a bit then the crank isn't siezed in the case. It could be that the piston is frozen in the cylinder or that it is just stuck in the uper "pinch taper" of the bore. I not familiar with that specific engine but it's not uncomon for a new engine to be tight a TDC prior to break in. Two things you can try. One remove the head, then heat the cylinder with a heat gun, the cylinder should expand and the piston will loosen up. Two remove the head and spray some penetrating oil in the bore, let'er soak and and see if you can free it. You can also try both methods soak then heat. Go easy as the last thing you want to do is bend the connecting rod.
Also if it were me before I did any of the above I would remove the carb and be sure there is nothing that fell into the crank opening during MFG (could be a screw jamming it up). Also remove the back plate and be sure there are no foreign objects in the case preventing crank rotation.
Do you have an exploded view that came with the engine, on many engines there is a thrust washer between the drive hub and case.
Darren
PS in reguards to your thread in the other forum, I like the mini Telemaster!
If you are sure the crank/ hub are moving back and forth a bit then the crank isn't siezed in the case. It could be that the piston is frozen in the cylinder or that it is just stuck in the uper "pinch taper" of the bore. I not familiar with that specific engine but it's not uncomon for a new engine to be tight a TDC prior to break in. Two things you can try. One remove the head, then heat the cylinder with a heat gun, the cylinder should expand and the piston will loosen up. Two remove the head and spray some penetrating oil in the bore, let'er soak and and see if you can free it. You can also try both methods soak then heat. Go easy as the last thing you want to do is bend the connecting rod.
Also if it were me before I did any of the above I would remove the carb and be sure there is nothing that fell into the crank opening during MFG (could be a screw jamming it up). Also remove the back plate and be sure there are no foreign objects in the case preventing crank rotation.
Do you have an exploded view that came with the engine, on many engines there is a thrust washer between the drive hub and case.
Darren
PS in reguards to your thread in the other forum, I like the mini Telemaster!
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From: Warialda NSW, AUSTRALIA
G'day Mate,
I'm willing to bet that you have lost a washer, between the prop driver & the front bearing.
Have a look for it, it may have fallen off when the prop driver came off & you didn't notice it was missing, until now!
I'm willing to bet that you have lost a washer, between the prop driver & the front bearing.
Have a look for it, it may have fallen off when the prop driver came off & you didn't notice it was missing, until now!
#10

My Feedback: (13)
I agree with alan there should be a thrust washer to provide a small gap between the hub and case.
the prop should swing freely with the glow plug removed and no contact between the prop hub and the case, if its new go to the place you bought it from and ask for help.
check all your parts,not to big on TT engines but there should be a exploded view make sure you have all parts in there right place before you alter or heat any parts.
BTW you shouldn't have to do anything like that anyway not good advice.
on a new engine if its not perfect out of the box its not right return it for a new one or refund.you shouldn't have to force it to flip over a new engine is tight to flip not stuck something is wrong or missing.
the prop should swing freely with the glow plug removed and no contact between the prop hub and the case, if its new go to the place you bought it from and ask for help.
check all your parts,not to big on TT engines but there should be a exploded view make sure you have all parts in there right place before you alter or heat any parts.
BTW you shouldn't have to do anything like that anyway not good advice.
on a new engine if its not perfect out of the box its not right return it for a new one or refund.you shouldn't have to force it to flip over a new engine is tight to flip not stuck something is wrong or missing.
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: alan0899
G'day Mate,
I'm willing to bet that you have lost a washer, between the prop driver & the front bearing.
Have a look for it, it may have fallen off when the prop driver came off & you didn't notice it was missing, until now!
G'day Mate,
I'm willing to bet that you have lost a washer, between the prop driver & the front bearing.
Have a look for it, it may have fallen off when the prop driver came off & you didn't notice it was missing, until now!
#12
Yep, you've lost the thrust washer that's supposed to fit between the prop driver and the inner race of the front bearing. Going by the parts diagram at http://61.221.10.43/english/products/eng/9130.htm#90071 you'll see it's listed as part #12 which seems to be part of the gasket set. This washer is needed because your engine doesn't use the tapered collet drive but flats machined onto the crankshaft. I wouldn't get too worried about it though because any steel washer that's a close fit on the crankshaft but smaller than the outer race of the front bearing will be fine. All it's used for is to transfer the tightening force on the prop nut through to the inner bearing race. With a tapered collet drive, the end face of the collet presses against the inner race to do the same job.
#14
Never run, maybe, but it's been sitting around and futzed with long enough that (from image #2) the prop nut is pitted and the tips of the threads have been worn down so they are flat and irregular. The low idle screw is in so far I can't even see it in that same image. Pull the glow plug and squirt in some oil in case the piston is frozen. The ball bearings could have siezed up, also.
There's a difference between "new" and "never run", especially in a damp cellar or out in a garage. Men age, metal corrodes.
There's a difference between "new" and "never run", especially in a damp cellar or out in a garage. Men age, metal corrodes.
#17
Ace Hobby, the North American distributor for Thunder Tiger, handles all Return to Manufacturer Authorizations (RMAs) for Thunder Tiger engine warranty issues:
http://rma.acehobby.com/RMA_Consumer_main.asp
Simply contact Ace for return instructions and they will get your engine serviced or replaced.
Ace Hobby also has a forums section on their website where they provide technical support for Thunder Tiger and Ace products:
http://www.acehobby.com/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=8
If you have a problem with a Thunder Tiger engine, Ace Hobby has plenty of resources available to help you
http://rma.acehobby.com/RMA_Consumer_main.asp
Simply contact Ace for return instructions and they will get your engine serviced or replaced.
Ace Hobby also has a forums section on their website where they provide technical support for Thunder Tiger and Ace products:
http://www.acehobby.com/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=8
If you have a problem with a Thunder Tiger engine, Ace Hobby has plenty of resources available to help you
#19
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From: Pittsfield,
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I bought it in the beginning of the Summer at my LHS and he does not take returns on engines, radios and such. But I will take it to him when I can, I KNOW he will take care of whatever problem it is, was just hoping someone would help without traveling 20-minutes away.
Can someone let me know if the thrust washer can be purchased at someplace like towerhobbies?
Can someone let me know if the thrust washer can be purchased at someplace like towerhobbies?
#20

http://www.thundertiger4u.com/pro36-...ft-p-7525.html
You should be able to get it here. Line #12, part of what they call the "gasket set" PN0007. Give them a call at least.
http://www.thundertiger4u.com/advanc...eywords=pn0007 Looks like $3.69 for the set.
You should be able to get it here. Line #12, part of what they call the "gasket set" PN0007. Give them a call at least.
http://www.thundertiger4u.com/advanc...eywords=pn0007 Looks like $3.69 for the set.
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
I bought it in the beginning of the Summer at my LHS and he does not take returns on engines, radios and such. But I will take it to him when I can, I KNOW he will take care of whatever problem it is, was just hoping someone would help without traveling 20-minutes away.
Can someone let me know if the thrust washer can be purchased at someplace like towerhobbies?
I bought it in the beginning of the Summer at my LHS and he does not take returns on engines, radios and such. But I will take it to him when I can, I KNOW he will take care of whatever problem it is, was just hoping someone would help without traveling 20-minutes away.
Can someone let me know if the thrust washer can be purchased at someplace like towerhobbies?
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From: High Prairie,
AB, CANADA
I can see why the Hobby shop might balk at returning the engine and why you are shy about pushing the issue.
I've dozens of engines with dozens of hours of flying time each that don't look as abused as this one.
I know the feeling: new to the sport (30 yrs ago), with a model on the building bench half finished and a nice new engine just sitting idle waiting for the model so you can get in the air... so you get inpatient and start "getting to know" the engine by tearing it down and putting it back together a couple times (probably without the proper wrenches I see).
It happens.
[sm=red_smile.gif]
I've dozens of engines with dozens of hours of flying time each that don't look as abused as this one.
I know the feeling: new to the sport (30 yrs ago), with a model on the building bench half finished and a nice new engine just sitting idle waiting for the model so you can get in the air... so you get inpatient and start "getting to know" the engine by tearing it down and putting it back together a couple times (probably without the proper wrenches I see).
It happens.
[sm=red_smile.gif]
#23
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ORIGINAL: bruce88123
Don't be taking it apart and expect warranty though. May get it and may not. Keep it as original as you can.
Don't be taking it apart and expect warranty though. May get it and may not. Keep it as original as you can.
Darren
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From: Hartford,
NY
I would think that the hobby shop would have a washer that would work. Tower will charge shipping that would more than cover a 20 minute drive to the LHS. I will no longer deal with the owner of the hobby shop that is 25 minutes away from me, instead I travel 45 miles to Vt, or 100 miles to Lee Ma.
ORIGINAL: tigerdude426
I bought it in the beginning of the Summer at my LHS and he does not take returns on engines, radios and such. But I will take it to him when I can, I KNOW he will take care of whatever problem it is, was just hoping someone would help without traveling 20-minutes away.
Can someone let me know if the thrust washer can be purchased at someplace like towerhobbies?
I bought it in the beginning of the Summer at my LHS and he does not take returns on engines, radios and such. But I will take it to him when I can, I KNOW he will take care of whatever problem it is, was just hoping someone would help without traveling 20-minutes away.
Can someone let me know if the thrust washer can be purchased at someplace like towerhobbies?



