Here we go with another newbie
#52
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
Do NOT buy wood props for learning. They break too easy.
Do NOT buy wood props for learning. They break too easy.
thanks I have heard that before lol... I have to go and see what I want to get. Does it make a difference if you get a 2 or 3 bladed prop?
#54
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
2 blade
2 blade
what is the difference between the 3 and 2 blade prop besides the obvious of them have 2 or 3 blades?
#55
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
Alrighty I finally got the plane finished. Now what do I do with the receiver, battery, the on/off switch, and the battery charger line so I don't have to take the battery out every time I need to recharge?
#56

ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
what is the difference between the 3 and 2 blade prop besides the obvious of them have 2 or 3 blades?
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
2 blade
2 blade
what is the difference between the 3 and 2 blade prop besides the obvious of them have 2 or 3 blades?
#57

your switch should have 3 leads off of it. One to the battery, one to the RX and the last is the charging plug. install
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE963&P=ML different p/n if you have JR.
in the side of the plane and you won't even need to remove the wing to charge.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE963&P=ML different p/n if you have JR.
in the side of the plane and you won't even need to remove the wing to charge.
#58
Actually, three bladed props are not less efficient. Somewhere, and I don't remember where, there is a thread by an individual that took a scientific approach to prop efficiency. Surprise, the three bladed props were more efficient, and look cooler too.
#59
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
your switch should have 3 leads off of it. One to the battery, one to the RX and the last is the charging plug. install
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE963&P=ML different p/n if you have JR.
in the side of the plane and you won't even need to remove the wing to charge.
your switch should have 3 leads off of it. One to the battery, one to the RX and the last is the charging plug. install
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE963&P=ML different p/n if you have JR.
in the side of the plane and you won't even need to remove the wing to charge.
thank you...lol... well here goes more money. lol oh well it will be worth it all in the end when I get the plane up and flying
#60
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
ORIGINAL: vertigo72480
Actually, three bladed props are not less efficient. Somewhere, and I don't remember where, there is a thread by an individual that took a scientific approach to prop efficiency. Surprise, the three bladed props were more efficient, and look cooler too.
Actually, three bladed props are not less efficient. Somewhere, and I don't remember where, there is a thread by an individual that took a scientific approach to prop efficiency. Surprise, the three bladed props were more efficient, and look cooler too.
yeah I like the 3 bladed look myself I am going to have to check into that. hopefully a moderator will pop in here and see this and knows how to pull up that article.
#61
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
ORIGINAL: vertigo72480
Actually, three bladed props are not less efficient. Somewhere, and I don't remember where, there is a thread by an individual that took a scientific approach to prop efficiency. Surprise, the three bladed props were more efficient, and look cooler too.
Actually, three bladed props are not less efficient. Somewhere, and I don't remember where, there is a thread by an individual that took a scientific approach to prop efficiency. Surprise, the three bladed props were more efficient, and look cooler too.
Ken
#62
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
I was just looking at your location there RCKen and seen good old Lawton Oklahoma. I went to boot camp and AIT at Ft. Sill. I bet the artillery is louder now with the new technology ... I was stationed there in 89 when those soldiers got hurt and killed by the artillery round that was shot the wrong way
#63
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
I was just looking at your location there RCKen and seen good old Lawton Oklahoma. I went to boot camp and AIT at Ft. Sill. I bet the artillery is louder now with the new technology ... I was stationed there in 89 when those soldiers got hurt and killed by the artillery round that was shot the wrong way
I was just looking at your location there RCKen and seen good old Lawton Oklahoma. I went to boot camp and AIT at Ft. Sill. I bet the artillery is louder now with the new technology ... I was stationed there in 89 when those soldiers got hurt and killed by the artillery round that was shot the wrong way
When did you go through basic here?? I went through back in 85/86 (split training for National Guard, went active duty in 88). Our training barracks were right across the street from the Red Leg shopette. All that entire area has long since been bulldozed over and rebuilt. I was stationed here in 92 and then when I was medically discharged in 96 I decided to stay here and start a business. Ken
#64

ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
thank you...lol... well here goes more money. lol oh well it will be worth it all in the end when I get the plane up and flying
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
your switch should have 3 leads off of it. One to the battery, one to the RX and the last is the charging plug. install
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE963&P=ML different p/n if you have JR.
in the side of the plane and you won't even need to remove the wing to charge.
your switch should have 3 leads off of it. One to the battery, one to the RX and the last is the charging plug. install
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE963&P=ML different p/n if you have JR.
in the side of the plane and you won't even need to remove the wing to charge.
thank you...lol... well here goes more money. lol oh well it will be worth it all in the end when I get the plane up and flying
And you don't really need to have it to charge the plane but you will need to take off the wing.
#65
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
well i should go ahead and buy it because i have to install the on and off switch what is a few bucks at this point..lol
#66
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
alrighty here comes another question. I bought a prop today and it doesn't fit. So I read the directions and found i have to make the hole bigger. Is there a way to do it without having to spend money and doing it properly or do I have to buy a prop reaming kit like the directions say?
#67
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
alrighty here comes another question. I bought a prop today and it doesn't fit. So I read the directions and found i have to make the hole bigger. Is there a way to do it without having to spend money and doing it properly or do I have to buy a prop reaming kit like the directions say?
alrighty here comes another question. I bought a prop today and it doesn't fit. So I read the directions and found i have to make the hole bigger. Is there a way to do it without having to spend money and doing it properly or do I have to buy a prop reaming kit like the directions say?
Hope this helps
Ken
#68
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
ORIGINAL: RCKen
A prop reamer ( [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK248&P=ML[/link] ) is best because it keeps the hole centered in the prop. But I understand about not wanting to have to spend more money. If you have a drill press that would be the next best thing to use. You can drill out the hole to the size you need, just anchor the prop so that the hole can't move off center while you drill. The last choice would be regular electric hand drill, although these are more apt to get the hole off center. I've used them before in a pinch had have been able to drill the hole ok, but I have alse screwed up props too using them. If you use a drill press or a drill you will need to re-balance the prop once you are done to make sure the hole is still centered. If it's not centered the prop will be out of balance and you'll have to get rid of the prop as there is no way to recover the balance after the hole is off-centered.
Hope this helps
Ken
ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
alrighty here comes another question. I bought a prop today and it doesn't fit. So I read the directions and found i have to make the hole bigger. Is there a way to do it without having to spend money and doing it properly or do I have to buy a prop reaming kit like the directions say?
alrighty here comes another question. I bought a prop today and it doesn't fit. So I read the directions and found i have to make the hole bigger. Is there a way to do it without having to spend money and doing it properly or do I have to buy a prop reaming kit like the directions say?
Hope this helps
Ken
#70
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
Ahhh, on old gun bunny!!!!! When did you go through basic here?? I went through back in 85/86 (split training for National Guard, went active duty in 88). Our training barracks were right across the street from the Red Leg shopette. All that entire area has long since been bulldozed over and rebuilt. I was stationed here in 92 and then when I was medically discharged in 96 I decided to stay here and start a business.
Ken
Ken
#71
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
I went throught there in 89 I did basic and AIT there. I got out in 95. I was stationed in the newer barracks near the Key Gate.
Ahhh, on old gun bunny!!!!! When did you go through basic here?? I went through back in 85/86 (split training for National Guard, went active duty in 88). Our training barracks were right across the street from the Red Leg shopette. All that entire area has long since been bulldozed over and rebuilt. I was stationed here in 92 and then when I was medically discharged in 96 I decided to stay here and start a business.
Ken
Ken

Ken
#72
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
.
[/quote]
Ahhh yes, the 6000 area. In 89 I was over in Italy for 3 years, and then returned here to Ft. Sill in 92. Funny thing was that when I left Italy I changed my MOS from FA to Supply, but guess where they sent me? You got it, right back to Ft. Sill. I couldn't get away from the Artillery to safe my life!! [:'(]
Ken
[/quote]
LOL !!! You should know better Ken. Once a Red Leg always a Red Leg. After the Persian Gulf I reclassified myself and became a combat medic.
[/quote]
Ahhh yes, the 6000 area. In 89 I was over in Italy for 3 years, and then returned here to Ft. Sill in 92. Funny thing was that when I left Italy I changed my MOS from FA to Supply, but guess where they sent me? You got it, right back to Ft. Sill. I couldn't get away from the Artillery to safe my life!! [:'(]

Ken
[/quote]
LOL !!! You should know better Ken. Once a Red Leg always a Red Leg. After the Persian Gulf I reclassified myself and became a combat medic.
#73
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
Alrighty here we go again. Getting closer and closer to getting this plane done and as you know there is no guidelines in my instructions to tell me what to do. So I reach out to the great knowledge base of RC Universe. 
I have the attached picture here for reference.
1st: In the instructions, what little there is,to secure the tank (that's all it says). I put that piece of basswood and foam to secure it from sliding back and put 1/4 inch foam on the bottom of the tank area and wrapped the foam around 3/4 of the tank. Is this ok, overkill, or should I do it another way?
2nd: I have read in some of the Model Airplane News Magazines to wrap the receiver in a plastic baggie to protect it from fuel and moisture. I have also read in articles and in the forum to keep the receiver secure so it doesn't vibrate. I am guessing to wrap it in foam. Ok, well if you do that, then how do you secure it in the plane?
3rd: WHAT THE HECK do you do with the battery?
Well after posting I see that you can't see the words in the boxes so here you go from left to right:
This is just to secure the tank should I take it off? (tank area )
What do I do with these? Just wrap the receiver in foam and just lay the battery in there or what? ( receiver and battery)
Hope this swithc is in the right place. It doesn't interfer with the pushrods for the ailerons. ( the charger / on/off switch)
Hope that makes sense. It is too early to be up...lol
Thanks in advance for the help

I have the attached picture here for reference.
1st: In the instructions, what little there is,to secure the tank (that's all it says). I put that piece of basswood and foam to secure it from sliding back and put 1/4 inch foam on the bottom of the tank area and wrapped the foam around 3/4 of the tank. Is this ok, overkill, or should I do it another way?
2nd: I have read in some of the Model Airplane News Magazines to wrap the receiver in a plastic baggie to protect it from fuel and moisture. I have also read in articles and in the forum to keep the receiver secure so it doesn't vibrate. I am guessing to wrap it in foam. Ok, well if you do that, then how do you secure it in the plane?
3rd: WHAT THE HECK do you do with the battery?
Well after posting I see that you can't see the words in the boxes so here you go from left to right:
This is just to secure the tank should I take it off? (tank area )
What do I do with these? Just wrap the receiver in foam and just lay the battery in there or what? ( receiver and battery)
Hope this swithc is in the right place. It doesn't interfer with the pushrods for the ailerons. ( the charger / on/off switch)
Hope that makes sense. It is too early to be up...lol
Thanks in advance for the help
#74

ORIGINAL: hdwideglide03
Alrighty here we go again. Getting closer and closer to getting this plane done and as you know there is no guidelines in my instructions to tell me what to do. So I reach out to the great knowledge base of RC Universe.
I have the attached picture here for reference.
1st: In the instructions, what little there is,to secure the tank (that's all it says). I put that piece of basswood and foam to secure it from sliding back and put 1/4 inch foam on the bottom of the tank area and wrapped the foam around 3/4 of the tank. Is this ok, overkill, or should I do it another way?
2nd: I have read in some of the Model Airplane News Magazines to wrap the receiver in a plastic baggie to protect it from fuel and moisture. I have also read in articles and in the forum to keep the receiver secure so it doesn't vibrate. I am guessing to wrap it in foam. Ok, well if you do that, then how do you secure it in the plane?
3rd: WHAT THE HECK do you do with the battery?
Well after posting I see that you can't see the words in the boxes so here you go from left to right:
This is just to secure the tank should I take it off? (tank area )
What do I do with these? Just wrap the receiver in foam and just lay the battery in there or what? ( receiver and battery)
Hope this swithc is in the right place. It doesn't interfer with the pushrods for the ailerons. ( the charger / on/off switch)
Hope that makes sense. It is too early to be up...lol
Thanks in advance for the help
Alrighty here we go again. Getting closer and closer to getting this plane done and as you know there is no guidelines in my instructions to tell me what to do. So I reach out to the great knowledge base of RC Universe.

I have the attached picture here for reference.
1st: In the instructions, what little there is,to secure the tank (that's all it says). I put that piece of basswood and foam to secure it from sliding back and put 1/4 inch foam on the bottom of the tank area and wrapped the foam around 3/4 of the tank. Is this ok, overkill, or should I do it another way?
2nd: I have read in some of the Model Airplane News Magazines to wrap the receiver in a plastic baggie to protect it from fuel and moisture. I have also read in articles and in the forum to keep the receiver secure so it doesn't vibrate. I am guessing to wrap it in foam. Ok, well if you do that, then how do you secure it in the plane?
3rd: WHAT THE HECK do you do with the battery?
Well after posting I see that you can't see the words in the boxes so here you go from left to right:
This is just to secure the tank should I take it off? (tank area )
What do I do with these? Just wrap the receiver in foam and just lay the battery in there or what? ( receiver and battery)
Hope this swithc is in the right place. It doesn't interfer with the pushrods for the ailerons. ( the charger / on/off switch)
Hope that makes sense. It is too early to be up...lol
Thanks in advance for the help
Tank - wrap in foam until a snug but not necessarily rock tight fit. Want foam to absorb vibration to minimize foaming of fuel.
RX-Wrap in baggie if where fuel could get on it, otherwise just wrap in foam. Multiple layers of foam can be used to "wedge" the RX in place so it won't move.
Battery - Same as RX.
If battery and RX are in same place they can be wrapped together. Use 6 inch extension for ailerons so you won't need to constantly access RX to plug things in.
#75
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hamilton,
OH
[/quote]
Looks like chage/switch is OK. Important things to remember: Non-interference and if possible put holes in plane on non-exhaust side to keep wood from being contaminated.
Tank - wrap in foam until a snug but not necessarily rock tight fit. Want foam to absorb vibration to minimize foaming of fuel.
RX-Wrap in baggie if where fuel could get on it, otherwise just wrap in foam. Multiple layers of foam can be used to "wedge" the RX in place so it won't move.
Battery - Same as RX.
If battery and RX are in same place they can be wrapped together. Use 6 inch extension for ailerons so you won't need to constantly access RX to plug things in.
[/quote]
Cool thanks Bruce. I will take a pic tomorrow and show you what I did. I finally finished the plane. Now I have to figure out the CG , centering the wing and set the throws and I am done. Minus breaking in the engine.


