I'm new to glow engines. I did a search of this site and gathered some information and opinions. The engine instructions ((TT Pro) gave some of the basics, an old Model Airplane News (Nov 2001) gave some information, not sure if it is oudated (5 years of technology) Jett Engineering site has good information. I have made a presumption that their comments also apply to other makes.

Having used gasoline egines, I found this comment at Jett particularly true and amusing, "These engines produce power by burning alcohol and nitro methane. These engines do both very well..

Read it thru and post your comments / suggestions. It may assist someother beginner as well.
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Break-In for the Beginner:

General Background: ABC / ABN type engines

All these engine's pistons have an interference fit at the top of the bore, so the engine "squeaks" or even seizes when turned over when cold. Even more so when it is new.
Because of this fit, these engines need special break-in procedures
If the sleeve is allowed to remain tapered, during the break-in, the interference fit at top stroke would get the piston and the plating scuffed, with ABN engines being more susceptible to plating damage than the ABC engines
Lower costs of waste product disposal are the only reason some engine manufacturers prefer nickel plating to hard chrome.

Also, in every non-firing revolution (every other revolution when four-cycling) the piston is pushed, into the seize at the top of the bore and then pulled back down, out of the seize, by the con-rod. These repeated compression-tension cycles can ultimately cause the con-rod to fail, due to metal fatigue (this was once common in some older K&B ABC QM engines).

Even if the con-rod remains in one piece, the loads imposed upon its bushings/ends by piston shoved in and out of the cold, tight sleeve top, could potentially hog out the con-rod ends (bushings). Much more so than would running a racing engine at a rich two-cycle, with normal fuel, from the start.

Jett writes that the actual target of the break-in is the bottom end.
Since ball-bearings don't need anything of the sort (as well as not requiring any more than 2% oil in the fuel), the targets are obviously the sliding bearings; the con-rod bottom end, the con-rod top end, the crank-pin, the wrist-pin and the wrist-pin bosses in the piston.

If the engine is a bushing bearing engine, like the Thunder Tiger GP, or the OS LA engines, the crankshaft main bearing (bushing) needs the same treatment that the con-rod ends are getting.
Cooling and Engine loading:
Determine what propeller is recommended for your application. E.G., TTPRO 46 10x7. Then for break-in choose a propeller that has the same pitch, but one inch (25.4mm) less diameter, i.e., 9x7. (TTPRO 36 10x6 use 9 x 6)
This will allow you to reach peak operating RPM without running the engine hard and lean.

Fuel:

Dub Jett:: Make sure you have good fuel. PowerMaster usedby Jett . Use the fuel you intend to fly with. It never hurts to add about 4-6 oz. of oil to a gallon for the first few tanks. Either castor or synthetic is fine. PowerMaster is 18% oil for lube. The stated mix is 33/66% castor/synthetic. (Adding 4-6 oz oil raises the lube content to 20.5% -21.7%)

Lube in the Fuel:

To protect these bottom-end parts during the break-in, without resorting to an extra rich mixture setting, that will potentially result in the problems described above, a special fuel formulation should be used for break-in.
Use fuel with degummed Castor oil (unless it is a YS two-stroke; then add synthetic) added to it, to a balance of 25% total oil.
This fuel will only be used for test-stand break-in, so you shouldn't care that the engine may not idle well and may provide less power. All engines will start, run and could even be peaked on such a fuel. You will only need about a quart
Using fuel with 25% oil will make any blubbering rich running unnecessary and will prevent the damage caused by any very rich and cold running period, without risking any bottom end damage.
Strangely, that short, blubbery rich minute, can cause the exact damage to the con-rod, that it is meant to prevent.

The high oil content prevents the need to choose between two evils, since you have both the two-cycle rich, operating temperature running, as needed for the piston and sleeve and the copious amounts of oil, needed to protect the bottom end.

Fuel Available and Additions:

PowerMaster 18% oil 15%Nitro
[ADDED 3.85 oz Benol raised to 20.4% lub with 43/57 castor/syntheic for primary/ first gallon.];
For break-in Liter mix ADDED additional 1.6 oz (47 cc or ml )Benol into 33.85 oz. of fuel yeilds a 24% oil ( 54/46 castor/syn) , 13.9% nitromethane, 62.1% methonal.
Make sure you have a good tank installation. Any air in the fuel line during running can cause major problems. Even on a test stand you have to be careful - wrap your tank in foam, keep it clean and free of leaks.

Start Up:

Test stand, heat gun, glow igniter, starter (chicken stick), tachometer, & new ABC/ABN w/ needle valve pre adjusted per engine manuf. 2-2 1/2 out CCWise.
1) Put 1 drop of lube oil into plug hole. Install glow plug (with piece of fuel tubing to prevent stripping threads). Snug up with 4-way wrench.
2) Heat the exterior of cylinder with heat gun till warm to very warm to touch, not HOT (Hold fingers on for 4 seconds)
3) Attach fuel line to carb inlet fitting; (An in-line filter at fitting is good idea)
4) Open the throttle to 50% or more
5) Prime the engine by turning prop thru till you see fuel enter the carb.
6) Attach Glow igniter, wait 5 seconds;
7) (Start the engine at full or part throttle, but not at idle. [Half throttle seems reasonable for novice.. ] As quickly as possible, move behind the engine (never stand in front of a running engine - see the safety instructions) and advance the throttle to full - Jett)
Expect a fair amount of smoke as it warms before starting to lean out.
8) Leave the battery on the glow plug for a while and let the engine run. After about one minute you my start to lean in the high speed needle and remove the glow plug battery. When your engine is running rich and then by turning the needle valve IN (or leaner) it 'breaks' into a clean two-cycle run...that is a rich/lean break. (You can hear the engine pick up RPM as the cylinder expands.)
(Use a piece of tubing with a hole in the end as a remote needle so I don’t have to get my hand near the propeller )
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PINCH TEST
A quick pinch of supply line with the engine at full throttle should gives a brief increase in RPM before starting to die.
Amount of RPM change tells HOW CLOSE to correct. Large increase says your RICH, Just a little increase your just right; If there is NO increase in RPM you are just going lean. If it SLOWS DOWN you are LEAN. If it starts to die immediately your TOO LEAN and needs adjustment.
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Lean the High speed needle (clockwised) till engine peaks (maximum RPM) then Richen (counter clockwise) to drop rpm 200-300 RPM.. (2 or 3 clicks) Do a PINCH TEST to verify. Tach and record the RPM.
If engine begins to slow richen (counter clockwise) a click or two.
8a) " The instructions and engine specifications will tell you what the normal engine RPM is for your engine. This is where you should run it. For example, if your engine normally should turn a 10x7APC at 17000, then you will run the engine during break-in at 17000 on a 9x7 propeller" (Jett)
9) After leaning out (clockwise) to the break-point, use tach and lean the setting to obtain engine specification RPM or maximum less a click or two.

Run engine for 2 minutes at this high RPM. (At this point approximately 3 minutes from initial starting engine has 50,000 revolutions. with light loading protected with 24% lube (54/46 castor/synthetic blend)

10) Shut the engine down with a minimum of low speed operation. Let engine cool completely.
10a) Inspect all fittings, head bolt tension, prop and spinner.
Top the fuel tank with more of the 24% lube fuel mix.
11) Restart the engine using steps 2 thru 8
12) Run the engine at manufacture's spec RPM. for an 5 minutes. Use the tach to verify RPM.
13) Shut the engine down with a minimum of low speed operation. Let engine cool completely.
13a) Inspect all fittings, head bolt tension, prop and spinner.
Top the fuel tank with more of the 24% lube fuel mix.
14) Restart the engine using steps 2 thru 8
15) Run the engine at manufacture's spec RPM. for an 5 minutes. Use the tach to verify RPM.
Goal: Repeat until the engine can hold peak RPM for 60 seconds.

"The object is to run the engine for at least 30 minutes rich, and at its proper RPM before it goes into the airplane. This will give you a chance to check out the throttle characteristics and get used to the engine. After the 30-min. test, then switch to your flying propeller and see if it operates properly. " (Jett)

Still around congradulations. Share your thoughts.