Check your spelling? Recinus is actually Ricinus or the Castor bean. You're talking about Castor Oil.
Castor oil
Castor beans are pressed to extract castor oil which is used for medicinal purposes. Ricin does not partition into the oil because it is water-soluble, therefore, castor oil does not contain ricin, provided that no cross-contamination occurred during its production.

http://www.healthtouch.com/bin/ECont...%7C+&cid=HTALT

Got to love that Google.

It's also a plant, not a tree.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_bean

BTW - be careful of this plant. Ricin poison is made from it and is extremely deadly.

I know the tree (yes it's a tree and yes it also comes as plant) is called ricinus.. my spelling was the dutch spelling. However, if recinus oil is the same as castor oil, then i stick to my statement that castor oil is better for break in, because it does lubricate less than the synthetic oil used in coolpower :P In africa they have trees up to 15 meters high of this stuff

"It is a fast-growing, suckering perennial shrub which can reach the size of a small tree (around 12 m), but it is not hardy. In areas prone to frost it is usually shorter and grown as if it were an annual: it can reach a height of 2–3 m in a year."

I see that you are correct.

If you want to know what goes into Cool Power (or any of the Morgan Fuels) you can visit their website. You can find their ingredients here
[link]http://www.morganfuel.com/ingredients.htm[/link]

You can view their MSDS's here:
[link]http://www.morganfuel.com/msds_fuels.htm[/link]

Ken

Basically the site also states that everyone is right:
So the Omega fuel does contain castor oil, but a modified version and, if you believe what they say, therefor lubricates better than 'ordinary castors'.. I was referring to ordinairy castor oil.

Anyways, this thread was not about the best break-in oil (sorry my bad). No-one got any further comments on the difference between 5 or 15% nitro, or the necessity to use 15%?

This isn't correct because it's the methanol that's hygroscopic. Nitro can only absorb something like 2% of its volume of water. Methanol though will just keep on absorbing water right up to 100% of it's volume. If you shut the engine down at the end of the day without first burning off all the fuel that collects inside the crankcase then the remaining methanol will start absorbing water out of the air. The methanol then evaporates much faster than the water leaving raw water inside the engine.

Synthetic oils don't "stick" to metals very well, they slide off over time leaving the bare metal surface to be in contact with water which then causes rust. Castor is what's called "polarised" which means that the castor molecules are attracted to metal kind of like a magnet to iron. It can't slide off so it leaves a permanent barrier against any water. A proper after run oil is also polarised which is why they work and are really only necessary if there's no castor in the fuel.

Nitro is just an additive to the base fuel and any engine will work quite well with zero nitro. To the best of my knowledge there's only one engine made that's had it's compression altered specifically for the American market's fascination with nitro and that's the Mokis sold as Mark engines. Some engines (early Saitos for instance) were made to run at their best with zero nitro but began to get a bad reputation in America because no one could get them to run properly when they were fed the usual high nitro diet (operator error) so they had to be altered.

The only possible reason for using high nitro (or even any nitro) is to try to squeeze every last few revs out of an engine. If you need nitro to make the model fly properly then you simply don't have a big enough engine in it.

The bottom line seems to be: everyone runs what works best for them in their engines for their applications. For me, that's 10%-15% nitro and a castor/synthetic oil mix.

Dr.1

I am with you downunder. I work in the oil field industry and deal with methonal on a regular basis in the winter breaking ice plugs in pipe lines. If you spill a little methonal on snow or ice you can watch it turn from a clear liquid to a white liquid when it has absorbed all the water it can.

Where i live it is a very long drive to a hobby shop, so what they have in stock is what i burn. Except i wont go over 15% nitro because of the cost.

having said that, my fuel of choice is cool power 15%. I did purchase 6 cases of sig 10% with a mix of synthetic and castor oil.
I got it at the beginning of last summer and burned it all but 2 gallons. I would not by this fuel again if i can ovoid it. had no troubles or breakdowns with it, just seemed not to run my engines as good as byrons or cool power.



one more thing, i run the same fuel in all my nitro engines. even my stadium trucks, and have not had one ill effect from it. Here is a quick list of all the engines i have in models that i can fly or drive right now. this will show the diversaty of engines that one fuel can run safeley

funtana 90...evolution 1.00
jack stafford comanchee...os 90 fs
sig lt 40....os 52 fs surpass
goldburg freedom 20.......os 40 fp
sukhoi 40 .......tower 46 pro
cmp extra 300......super tigre 2500
traxxas revo.........2.5r
rc10 gt........associated .15
rc10 gt.......duratrax torq 12
traxxas nitro sport se........traxxas .15

but my fuel of choice is cool power 15%