Can someone give me some good tips on cutting angles. I'm building a LT-40 and starting to build the stabilizer and fin. The plans show the support spars to have angles cut that butt up against the stab/fin leading and trailing edges. Is there a simple way to transfer those angle cut marks onto my balsa spar? I have a miter box to make the cuts. But I want to make sure I have the right lines marked to cut. I know this has been said before in this forum, but you experienced folks have provided a wealth of valuable information in here. This has provided me with a lot of helpful tips in this build.

Thanks
CC

OUflyer,
Have you read through my LT-40 build thread? I cover how to do all of that in the thread. Take a look at it and see if it answers your questions.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3439708/tm.htm]Pay It Forward build thread!! LT-40 build.[/link]

Hope his helps

Ken

An adjustable square does the trick. Set the square to match the angle on the plans, lay it on the wood, mark it, and cut away.

Measure twice, cut once.

Dr.1

RCKen,

I am using your build it thread as a guide, extensively. And it has been a great help. But I don't recall seeing any info on this. I'll look again. That thread has really helped me in my building. Thanks for taking the time and effort in building/writing it.

Dr1Driver,

Thanks, I'll check on that adjustable square. Didn't even think of that.

Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!!!

Look starting here: [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3685534[/link]

Ken

Thanks, I'll check on that adjustable square.

Don't look for a hobby item. Any time a company puts "hobby" on a tool the price doubles. Check Lowe's and Home Depot.

Dr.1

If I'm not mistaken, you're talking about the bridging between the leading and trailing edges. In my construction efforts, I've found its easiest to simply cut the balsa slightly oversized and then use a sanding bar to take off the last little bit. A few quick strokes with sand paper makes small adjustments possible. If you overdo it slightly, you can fill the gap with microballoons. Much of the structure's strength comes in compression when you put the covering on or sheet it (depending on the plans).

Brad

If you're cutting loose stock lay it over the plans, lay a small metal straight-edge over the part and sight straight down on it and use a pensil to scribe the line. Then cut it with a razor saw. I have a very square cutting block (it the end of a Butcher Block countertop) and just by hangint the piece over the edge with the pencil line aligned visually with the edge I can saw through it very perpendiculaely (but then, I used to work in a cabinet shop and have done a lot of "full-scale" handsawing).

You can also saw close and then work it perfect with 60 grit sandpaper on a sanding block or laid flat on a table (never with loose paper held in one hand).

If you're transferring an angle from a harder to manage sub-assembly, invest in a "T-bevel" (the brass & wood tool on the board in the lower right of the first image). It adjusts to an angle with a wing nut and then locks in place.

While you're shopping check out a Try Square (the wood and steel right angle in the second image) and a 12" spirit level (the guy with the bubbles). These three tools are useful in ANYTHING you will ever build; bookshelves to biplanes. Level your worksurface with the spirit level and then you can use the try square to check squareness from then on. Use it to mark stock, check a stack of wing ribs when sanding them to shape , etc.

t-BEVEL
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_To...l_Square_39582
Try Square and others
http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library...ols-A1710.html
http://www.mikestools.com/Try-Squares_1043.aspx
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...738-1099-TS151

I appreciate everyones input.

Thanks people!!!!!

CC