I am working on an EagleII, and they supplied a fitting that attaches to the throttle servo that allows the throttle control wire to be inserted through it, and then tightened down via a set screw. They say that this allows throttle adjustments to be made very easily. The other control wires for the rudder, elevator and steering are to be bent at 90 degrees, and inserted into the servo, and then capped to prevent them from falling out.

Is there any problem using the same sort of attachment method as the throttle cable as this would eliminate any errors in bending the guide wires for the other control wires?

Thanks for any input, and what do they call these fittings?

Robby
Canada

You should not use a set screw for vital control surfaces such as ailerons and elevator because those types of connectors have a greater risk of failure.

Use the Z or 90 degree bends in the rods with the connectors. Always better to have a physical connection on vital surfaces.

O.K. Thanks for the info

what I find to be a good way to measure out the wires for z-bends is to actually set everything up and insert my clevises into the quick connects about 1/3-1/2 way. I then like the wire up over the servo arm where I want to connect it and mark it with a sharpie. I recommend making a test bend in a spare piece of wire or at the end of a piece so you can get a feel for how the wire bends in relation to your sharpie mark. Then go ahead and bend the wire and adjust your servo arm and the clevis as needed to get the proper distances.

You are going to love flying the Eagle II. I have one that I am learning on and it is very forgiving and easy to fly. Lands great every time. I put skiis on mine and am flying it off the snow. Good luck with yours.

We use them on 1/2A and parkflyers for any control surface, but I wouldnt do that on a .40 size, like Pete says its not enough to hold on to unless you notched it and that wouldnt allow it to be adjustable anyway....Rog

When attaching the clevis to the control horn on the control surface AND if you use a clevis on the servo end, use something like the drawing to make the connections. Use a lengh of fuel tubing, about 1/4 inch long, and slip it over the clevis onto the body of the clevis. Make the connection to the servo or the control horn, then slip the fuel tubing over the fork of the clevis about half way up to where the connection is made to the control horn or servo. This will keep the clevis from opening up from some un-planned torque.

DS

CG hes talking about pushrod connectors , not clevis's,, where the connectors fits in the control arm and the pushrod goes through it and then you tighten down the set screw to hold it in place or loosen it to adjust it....Rog