Building for the first time. I built a Slow Poke and have received an Airtronics Flight Pak. Problem: the instructions for the plane did not say anything about drilling holes for screws on the platform that holds the servos. The Servos that I received came with rubber holders and instead of screws, some sort of little brass looking stoppers. Absolutely no instructions came with the flight pak. Can anyone relate to this problem and tell me what to do about this? Even the diagram of the plane doesn't show how to secure the servo. Any help would be appreciated.

sugarfoot,
The rubber holders go over the mounting lugs on the sides of the servo. The brass "stopper" should be more of a tube. Slide that through the hole in the rubber piece and then put a screw throught the brass tube into the tray. If it didn't come with screws, go get some! You need them! The rubber/brass setup is to minimize vibration transfering from the airframe to the servos.

Ty

When you insert the brass eyelet you will want to have the flange at the bottom of the servo mounting tang. I don't fully understand why except that's the way all the instructions I've read say to do it. (I've done them both ways, but by convention, if nothing else, the flange should be at the bottom.)

Anyone out there know why?

ED

Ty...thank you for your help. What you said made sense to me. I'll do it. I sure wish these manufacturers would not just assume that everyone has the experience to know what to do.

if ya hang with me here I may be able to stutter out some explanation~ I believe it needs to go at the bottom so that it firmly rests on the tray. Most eyelets I have had don't always go all the way through the rubber grommet. You want to screw holding on the brass and not the rubber or the whole setup is useless. Like I said, having the lip at the bottom ensures that the brass is resting on the tray, and you can tighten the screw to meet the other end of the brass eyelet.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. It's just the way I always understood it.

Ed, thank you for that info too. If you would not have told me to do it that way, I would have done it with the flange on top. You and Ty sure have made me feel better about this. I was beginning to get discouraged because I didn't know how to do this stuff without instructions.

No problem sugarfoot. Especially with flight packs, they don't feel there is a need to explain how to set it up. Typically most people get flight packs after purchasing an entire radio setup and manufacturers think they should remember most of it.
I just got a new Futaba flight pack and it was the same way. I had to dig the old manual out to refresh myself how to install it because it has been a few years since I last did a radio installation.

Just my 2 cents. With the non-flange end against the tray, or wood, would cause this sharp end to easily cut its way through the plastic of the tray or the wood with any prolonged vibration. The flange is for disitributing the force in a ring at the tray or wood level, the top sharp part will not cut through the screw.

I didn't even think of that. Another good reason.

MTthoms is correct, the reason is to keep the eyelet from cutting into the mount.

Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the "bibles" by the Higleys: "Getting Airborne Vols. 1 and 2.". They will answer 90% of your questions and the forum will answer the rest.

Dave Segal

Sugarfoot,
Glad I was of a little help.

Ty,
Your right -- I only wish I had given it more thought -- Sure makes sense, especially when you consider the screws flange, or the washer will compress the gromet at the other end. (kind of a sandwich effect) Thanks...

ED