I built my prototype from the free DXF plans I offered on RCU a few months back. These plans show a new Compufoil fully symmetrical aerobatic wing without dihedral and medium/heavy thickness for mild speed. She built just fine for me and it looks great tell me what you think. A few other features are it’s a tail dragger, under wing servo hatch doors, and a forward fuel tank hatch that comes in very handy. Free plans link below.
http://plans.rcmodell.hu/whatsnew.html

I don't know if it's because of the plans or your building skills, but the plane looks great to me. I've nver been fond of the stik concept, but yours looks quite interesting. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the complement I enjoy scratch building very much I think it tends to make you focus more on the details so it looks and flies perfect. I also like the idea of changing things to make the plane fly the way you want it to. With some very basic airfoil knowledge and design concepts one can accomplish that goal.
Hey just got the tail fin art done how does it look? Real sick aint it!!!!!!!

Very nice.. Im working on a funtana.

I have a nice printer plotter to print these stick plans, need a set give me a PM. Lots of winter building season left may just as well build one of these easy build Ugly Sticks way fun plane check out the videos.
Plan overview:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIBfRaYlTSA

Flying:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqxakYJ8LLI

Would love to get a set of plans for your plane...love the graphics!!

[email protected]

Thanks,

Steve

I scratched one out last summer from a similar plan. I plotted it out at about 75% size and flew it with a .25LA. It was a nice flying little plane until my structural flaws came to light and the wing came off on a somewhat hard landing.

It is now a piece of art hanging in my basement.

Yours looks awesome.

A stick is a stick is a stick but that sure is a pretty stick. I would have never thought of those colors together but they really do set it apart!! GreaT GRAPHICS TOO!! I often forget how nice they fly but I used to use them as students second plane. Great job and good design. Nice of you sharing the plans too. Anyone that has never owned or flown a stick should grab a set while they can, this looks like one of the really good ones!!!

The DXF file link above is now down for whaever reason not sure why. So here is the PDF file (works better anyway) for printing the wingspan is 65", the Wing Chord is 12.75", and the Fuse Length is 45". Your print shop should be able to get the sclae proper for printing.

Nice job! I always liked the forward fuel cell access hatch the way we used to build years ago saved a lot of problems at times also being able to fuel proof that area.

I couldn't get the plans to open but I did see the PDF. From what I can see it looks like you did a great job of designing a nice plane and easy for a beginner to build. Thank you for sharing and the offer. I hope a lot of beginners will take you up on it. The sticks are a fantastic plane for both flying and building. The mods you incorporated are a good idea and easier to do the way you designed them into the build. I hope a lot of people will give this one a try!!

I'm a stick kinda guy. Sent them to my printer. Will let everyone know what the printer charges if you are interested. Thanks sticktickler.

I love the way the sticks fly, but I have always disliked the scalloped trailing edge of the ailerons and the stupid looking round tail feathers. The versions with the more traditional ailerons and tail feathers seem to fly just as well and I like them. It's just a personal thing. Some guys may like the scalloped ailerons and round tail and it doesn't make them bad people. Does it?

anyone going to do a build thread? be interested in building one myself

Gene, I know what you look like, there is nothing stick about you!!! I will vouch for Genes printer, he does the best job I have seen printing plans!!
Max just doesn't like covering scallops is all!! They look cool and I put them on a lot of Bipes. It's also called an Ugly Stick for a reason!!
RGM, why don't you do a build thread on the plane? Someone needs to go first. I just started a new build a little while ago and will be posting it up later today. A huge Ultimate Bipe that should take a week or two to frame up!!! That will depend on how fast the glue dries though!
Gene

I would but I can hear the laughing and undertone jittering now

Anyone building this Ugly Stick feel free to post a build on this thread post any photos you have lets keep this going and going. What a great plane! I have some pics of the wing build the plastic ribs are templates for tracing the part for cutting and for repairs later if needed.
Notice photo below of wing hold down ply rib here you do not need the build tab on this rib because will be too hard to cut it off once it's in the wing being made of 1/4" plywood. Also notice the false rib for holding that spar end to the ply rib (Do not make the spar hole in the ply rib as shown this could weaken the wing hold down tab). This also provides some top sheeting glue surface on the hold down tab rib as well thus making this area even stronger, never a bad thing.
The tail plane and fuse pics shown below are an electric motor build it was made lighter with a built up vertical stabilizer and rudder (not as strong as sheet balsa for nose overs). The builder has omited the ply and 1/4" balsa sheet from the fuse by laminating two layers of 3mm balsa in key locations to save even more weight. That's the beauty of this model you can do just about anything you want to make it fit your flying needs.
If you have questions please ask me here so others can read them too and learn. I'm glad to help in any way I can. I also have some cool graphic kits for sale (seen above) skulls, knights and maltese crosses, flames and tribal designs among others for this model please PM me for details and price on that.
I'm also looking into getting some short kits made up as well you'll only need the spar sticks, wing LE dowels and sheeting. Let me know if there is any interest in the short kits (see first image below).
The last photo is another method of aligning all ribs for cutting on a scroll or band saw all at once this works very well.

Gene sees right through me!!! I haven't had the pleasure of trying to cover a scalloped edge, but I have looked at them and wondered how the hell to do it.

Simple cover the bottom first cut the covering 3/8" longer around the scallops. Iron it on the bottom and use the iron tip to curve the covering over the scallops edge just near the top. Now cover the top with a second piece making the overlap a bit less, this way you'll get all the wood covered. Keep the heat down which prevents the covering from curling onto itself as you work it over the edge, I have the best luck with Ultracoat it likes lower heat for curves. Not nearly as hard as it looks (see mine below) I have a two color scheme silver bottom and blue top and still kept the line separating the two colors dead center on the scallop's edge.

I found a very nice build (see link below) from my redrawn plans and new wing from (call sign) hammered. Please understand hammered is clearly a prolific builder but I want you all to know this design is very forgiving even with limited building skills. Some build planes like fine furniture like hammered which is simply beautiful. Others can pop one out in a weekend, I'm one of them speed builder types (rather be flying then building). My point is whichever way you choose to build just remember not to tress out to much and enjoy the process. Masterfully built or a bit rough we all start from the bottom of the latter but it will still fly just fine and they all look great in the air. Please come back and comment on that build!


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_76..._1/key_/tm.htm

probably a really stupid question , and to show my skills, how would you go about scaling this up to a 120 size?

Easy just ask me for the larger scaled DXF file or scale the PDF the size you need it to be.

if you would sir, have a saito 125 waiting for home. I'll send you a PM

The original post was in 07 and the links quit working after a while. Not sure of the time limit but they don't work on any older posts.
If you have plans on disc and use places like Kinko's you can just tell them what percent you would like them printed. I'm sure Genes printer does the same thing. I sent Gene a set of plans in a PDF file and he printed them to 100% and they were perfect!

Ok now for the not so easy part of scaling up drawings. Most of us RC aircraft CAD designers draw the RC plans at the same scale they will be built. That means the drawing shows all the proper sizes spar stock and sheet thickness being used. That said when others want to enlarge the same drawing things change on the drawing.
I know people think being drawn in a computer we designers can simply push a button and make it larger. For the most part that is true we can do that and yes the drawing will be larger. However for example the once indicated 1/4" spars will look to be nearing 3/8" and the sheet thickness for the ribs was once 3/32" now looks 3/16" and so on.
In short most of the basic parts like the fuse cross section; rib profiles (less the spar sizes notches) and bulkhead profiles will be fine and can be cut for building. You'll just need to retain the same size stick stock and sheet sizes used on the small plan. So you will need to redraw the rib notches back down to the former size not hard to do. You can't use that larger size of wood or it will be too heavy to fly so using the regular sizes of wood is usually lighter and easier to find.
I wish there was an easy fix to this problem but without a complete redraw of the enlarged plan for the new stock sizes one has to make due with what you have. I wish I had the time to draw many sizes for everyone but sadly I do not, but this is not a huge thing to work out good luck.