Hello I just bought a used K&B engine .40 size.(engine looks new)
I tried starting it and it wont start I changed the plug, used a starter,and I also got
new fuel. I'm new at this but I did start my OS 40la, I think I'm missing something do this engines
come with a needle valve or something. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Angelo.

Angelo, you might try turning your high speed needle valve in all the way. Then turn it out 2 and a half turns. Try starting your engine with the needle at that position and adjust from there. This is what I always do with a pesky engine. Hope it helps!

Do all engines have a needle vulve because I do'nt see one on
this engine. The Os 40 has one on the back, but the K&B has nothing.

Angello yes all engines have a needle valve somewhere. K&B .40 is a reliable old standby that has been around a lot of years and there have been a number of different carburator arrangements both with remote needles like your LA 40 and with needles on the main carb body. If that type it will stick out the left side from the carb itself. Possibly if it is that type the needle is missing or if it is a remote type, the remote assembly is missing. This Remote type is unlike the LA not attached to the engine but made to attach somewhere on the airplane.

Due to the variety of carbs used it will make a differance how the engine is tuned depending on what you have. Therefore for anyone to help, more info is needed. Could you possibly post a picture of what you have.

John

here a picture of the engine

OK, you have what appears to be a pristeen early engine. That engine has a bushed main bering of which I have not run accross before most are ball bering.

The muffler is an after market strap on tongue muffler by the way. The carburator is a Perry Varsane which fortunately is still around. It the type used on early K&B's. The reason there are two throttle arms is that second arm was intended to use a short pushrod to a flap that rotated to cover the exhaust coupled to the throttle (in those days mufflers were not used). You can further confirm this by removing the muffler and checking in the exhaust boss there will be a small threaded hole with no bolt in the middle of the exhaust manifold.

Now back to the problem, that carb has a brass or alum colored disc on the left side (otherside from the photo) and the needle screws into the disc. It is smaller than more contemporary needles but has a tiny thumbwheel to which you can turn easily. If it is not there there will just be a tiny scrw hole in that brass/alum disc. Is it there? If not you will have to get another from possibly a fellow old club member or finding the Perry Varsane website, try a search on Conley engineering. My apologies I don,t have a link. Perhaps some else knows.

If you do have a needle I can offer further info to get you going.


John

That is an early 40 but is a ball bearing . What we need is a picture of the other side. OK? >>>>>>>>big max 1935>>>>>>>>

How old is this engine??????

are you starting it in real cold weather? how is the compression?

We really were trying to help but your not responding to the important questions for anybody to be able to help you!

John

The way the throttle arm is held on with a nut makes it a newer one , should also have a hole in front & back of exhaust stack for rotating baffle. If it don`t have holes it is newer yet . Should have a brass colored needle valve. We need a picture of the other side to be sure. I have seen 4 different needles for Perry carbs.
>>>>>>>>>>>big max 1935>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

WHY NOT TAKE THE MOTOR TO A CLUB AND HAVE SOMEONE WITH MORE EXPEREANCE TRY TO HELP YOU

First of all I would like to thank everybody the help they are giving me.
I just got my digital camera working again and took a few more pictures of the other side
Thanks
Angelo

It`s missing the needle valve , a small spring goes over the needle then in the hole in center of disk. If all else fails buy a new carb , probably about $35.00 US >>>big max 1935>>>>>>>>>

OK Angelo now you are cookin'. That is definately not the old standby #4011 engine (at least the later ones). The 4011 has a large oversized ball bering boss immediately behing the prop driver (the machined alum piece the spinner is aginst). Also it is is a collet type and that one is either pined or set screw. There is no bulge at all for a front bering which leads me to think it is indeed a bushing engine.

Like Max says it is missing the needle and it screws into the empty hole in that disc on the left side. You will have to get another. PUFFDADDY had an excellent thought. Do go to your club and it will be very likely someone will come up with a needle for you as at one time there were a lot of these carbs around. Failing that do contact Conley engineering. You do belong to a club don,t you? or have a mentor. You are going to need to work with someone to learn how to run both your engines as well as flying.

Notice that a reference line is on the top of that disc and on either side are a tiny plus and a minus mark, on top of the carb body above that are three referance lines that match the one line on the disc. This is important because this is your mid range adjustment unlike your OS which has an air bleed screw on the front of the carb. The mid range is adjusted by rotateing that disc on the left side (it has a serated edge) toward the plus (richer mid range) or towards the minus (leaner mid range). Its important for whoever is helping you understand this because this setup is now rather rare. For a first start that line on the disc should line up with the middle line on top of the carb and the main needle opened three to three and a half full turns from closed.

One last point: Perry later Varsane and now Conley made carbs in two types for each size. One is intended for normal use with a smaller venturi and without a pump, the other has a larger venturi for use with a pressure pump. The pressure carb will never function right with a normal setup. The recognition point is one has a brass colored disc on the left side and the other has an alum colored midrange disc. For the life of me I can,t remember which is which. Another recognition point is on the back of the engine there is a molded in nipple for a fuel line in the backplate with no hole, If so that is good as you probably have a standard carb. If there is a drilled hole all the way through then you may have a pressure carb which would require a pump.


I do hope this helps and I can,t emphasize enough that you will need to get help, enjoy.


John

Thank-you everybody that helped me. I will be joining a club soon they start in May so till then I will have to rely on you guys(I hope) and the best site on the net, RCuniverce.

Angelo

John

Many clubs continue to meet during the winter to discuss building techniques, engine repairs, swap meets, or just to keep in touch with the club members. Some people even fly off the snow! Your Local Hobby Store can probably tell you how to get in touch with the club.

John :I never saw a K & B with a bulge in front for a bearing , it has a BB ,not a real big one like now days but a bearing. The early carbs had the arm held on with a Phillips screw, later had the nut like he has . Picture is not too good ,but looks like K & B logo on side, early carb had aluminum idle disk later was brass, early took a small black needle with a spring to hold adjustment later one had a brass one with an "O" ring inside it. Never saw a pressure carb with the aluminum disk, came later with newer brass barrel carb. Had a couple of plain bearing engines like you are talking about but they had a shinny finish & a much different thrust washer , a throw back to the old "Green Head". Apapa, you may not be able to find a good muffler for it any way so it may not be usable, don`t know about noise up there? Any way like the rest of the troops say best find a club & some help.>big max 1935>>