What is the procedure for staining a canopy with RIT dye?
How much dilution ratio?
How long do you submerge canopy in the dye?
What weight is good to use to keep it submerged and not float to the top?
How long drying process?
Is one dipping enough?
Is RIT fuelproof?

Thank you.

I mix it as per the instructions. As for how long to soak it, that all depends on how dark you want to make it. Keep in mind that some plastics will accept the coloring better than others. I have had some of my canopies in the solution for a couple of hours. I would also say that once it has dryed, it is fuel proof. I have never done anything to mine after dying, and they have never run or faded. Just be careful with the dye, as it will stain anything that it comes in contact with. Good Luck, Dave

Hi Dave,
I'm in the UK and want to tint a canopy and was wondering what is "RIT" dye?

Is it a clothing dye? Do you soak the whole clear canopy or would just one side do it ( canopy already glued into a frame, unfortunately...)? Are there any other methods that you know of....? Thanks.

rgds,
Barry

Yes, RIT is a clothing dye. And when it actually works, it's done to the canopy as a single piece. You soak the part in the dye.

Unfortunately, nowadays it appears that very few of the mfg's are using a clear plastic that will respond at all to RIT. In the last year and a half, not one of the canopies that I've tried to dye has taken even a hint of the color. And a number of threads on this topic have had industry insiders post that there has been a changeover away from the old type plastics that would take RIT. It appears that dyeing canopies is not a sure thing.

In order for you to find out if your canopy will accept RIT, you basically have to find a suitable container, buy the dye, heat the water, and try it out. If it doesn't work, you've out of luck, out of RIT, and have to find another way to color your canopy. But you do have a large pot you didn't have before.

My Somethin Extra (kit, not ARF) took the Rit no problem. It is the overseas canopies that the dye is a crapshoot on. 150 degrees is a good temp to use. Do NOT cut the canopy out until after you have dyed it.

I use a 5 gallon bucket. I have 2/3 bottle of black and 1/3 bottle of denim blue in that bucket. I use a heating element and a thermometer to heat the dye to the 150 degrees. 1 hour is a minimum. for really dark, I soak with heat for an hour or two, remove heat, and let it sit over night.

UH-OH[]

What happens if you try to die the canopy AFTER you have already cut it out?

They have a tendency to warp. It might work ok, might not. Maybe try it with the temperature less.

I have found that anything above 120 will make the dye work, I add salt to my dye that seems to make the process work faster. I haven’t tried anything over 140 in fear that it will warp the canopy. soaking time for me has been from 10 minutes to 45 minutes. after you have soaked the canopy take it from the dye and rinse it in fresh cold water and check the color if it isn’t the shade you want then soak it for another period. and I would advise not to remove the canopy from the form until you finish with the dye, they will warp.as far as mixing the dye i use the powder type and always mix the solution about 1/3 less with water as the instructions say or according to the container you use,you might have to add two or three packs of the dye,they sell it in the dollar stores here.

For canopies that won't take to dye, I use Pactras candy apple blue paint. It's used to paint lexan bodies, and is very transparant. One light mist coat will do the job nicely.

Well seeing as though I already cut the canopy from the form before I read the responses here what can I use in place of the dye that WON'T warp the canopy?

If I paint the inside of the canopy with paint instead what paint would I use?

Tiger, I believe you missed this post with the paint recommendation. Oh and by the way how is the trainer?
Cheers

I have read this really works well. Haven't tried it yet though.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...nt&FVPROFIL=++