Stupid Question
#1
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From: Hobart, AUSTRALIA
Im with electric so this is a question that may seem dumb to you nitro guys 
Just how to u start a nirto engine? how do u turn it over to start it?
ive heard of some people getting a rolled my magazine and just "whacking" the prop to turn it over!??! whats the proper way (assuming there is
)

Just how to u start a nirto engine? how do u turn it over to start it?
ive heard of some people getting a rolled my magazine and just "whacking" the prop to turn it over!??! whats the proper way (assuming there is
)
#2
Senior Member
You can either use an electric starter or a "chicken stick". The starter cone is placed over the spinner and turns the engine. The chicken stick is used against the prop to flip the engine over compression.
Never, NEVER, NEVER start your engines by hand. Keep your fingers out of that prop arc, it can do some nasty damage.
Dr.1
Never, NEVER, NEVER start your engines by hand. Keep your fingers out of that prop arc, it can do some nasty damage.
Dr.1
#3

My Feedback: (1)
Of course, you have to fuel up the tank on the plane, prime it, one way is to open the throttle all the way, put your thumb over the carb opening, and turn the prop several revolutions until you can see the fuel flow into the carb. Set the throttle to slightly above idle, place the glow driver on the glow plug, and turn the engine over as DR1 stated above. The main point is to keep your hands/fingers away from the prop as you start it. Thus the reason for a chicken stick or electric starter motor.
Chicken stick
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXC019&P=ML
Electric starter
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJC35&P=ML
Glow driver
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNXH8&P=7
Band aid
[:@]
http://www.bandaid.com/new_products.shtml
Chicken stick
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXC019&P=ML
Electric starter
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJC35&P=ML
Glow driver
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNXH8&P=7
Band aid
[:@]http://www.bandaid.com/new_products.shtml
#4
Senior Member
Lot more elegant ways than whipping it like a naughty puppy. 
Check out the Tower webpage and look up Flight Line Equipment. Their catalog is an excellent text book for learning the art of modeling.
Glow plug engines need 3 things to start.
Fuel, "glow" for the glowplug, and something to flip the prop.
Obviously it's not quite that simple. For example, "something to turn the prop" can range from the standard 12V portable starter to a "chicken stick" to your own hand.

Check out the Tower webpage and look up Flight Line Equipment. Their catalog is an excellent text book for learning the art of modeling.
Glow plug engines need 3 things to start.
Fuel, "glow" for the glowplug, and something to flip the prop.
Obviously it's not quite that simple. For example, "something to turn the prop" can range from the standard 12V portable starter to a "chicken stick" to your own hand.
#7
Senior Member
Hey, CGRetired,
Just a suggestion on one detail you mentioned...............
If you're going to finger choke the carb, no need to open or close the throttle. You're blocking off all atmospheric pressure with the thumb and that makes the throttle position a moot point. But to add some positive advice.........
Most of our carburated glow engines self prime excellently if we almost close the throttle and just apply an electric starter. Closing the throttle and backing the TX throttle STICK back 2-3 clicks (the throttle sticks almost all have ratchets) virtually sets a "choke" for us. It's a choke that works perfectly with an electric starter. The carb is choked and draws excellently well, AND when the fuel reaches the engine, the engine starts at a very safe speed. With a lot of engines and installations, that setting will also work if you're flipping manually. It won't usually start on the first flip of the first starting attempt of the day, but restarts on the runway and later flights very often are one or two hand flips. That is, if you're one to hand or stick flip them suckers.
Just a suggestion on one detail you mentioned...............
If you're going to finger choke the carb, no need to open or close the throttle. You're blocking off all atmospheric pressure with the thumb and that makes the throttle position a moot point. But to add some positive advice.........
Most of our carburated glow engines self prime excellently if we almost close the throttle and just apply an electric starter. Closing the throttle and backing the TX throttle STICK back 2-3 clicks (the throttle sticks almost all have ratchets) virtually sets a "choke" for us. It's a choke that works perfectly with an electric starter. The carb is choked and draws excellently well, AND when the fuel reaches the engine, the engine starts at a very safe speed. With a lot of engines and installations, that setting will also work if you're flipping manually. It won't usually start on the first flip of the first starting attempt of the day, but restarts on the runway and later flights very often are one or two hand flips. That is, if you're one to hand or stick flip them suckers.
#8

My Feedback: (1)
Hi Rock.
You know, you are absolutely right. I guess it just became a habit I learned from someone and just do it automatically. I watch the air-bubble move through the fuel line until it reaches the carb and the fuel flows freely without air bubbles in it. I use S&W 15% nitro 20% lube mix, the fuel is red, well, actually a sort of pink, but it is very visible as it moves to the carb from a full tank. This usually is what is expected on the first flight of the day from fueling up an empty tank. I guess it comes from 'priming' a cold engine, I guess..
Thanks for the input. I ought to just follow suit and do it right..
DS.
You know, you are absolutely right. I guess it just became a habit I learned from someone and just do it automatically. I watch the air-bubble move through the fuel line until it reaches the carb and the fuel flows freely without air bubbles in it. I use S&W 15% nitro 20% lube mix, the fuel is red, well, actually a sort of pink, but it is very visible as it moves to the carb from a full tank. This usually is what is expected on the first flight of the day from fueling up an empty tank. I guess it comes from 'priming' a cold engine, I guess..
Thanks for the input. I ought to just follow suit and do it right..
DS.
#9
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: Dr1Driver
to your own hand.
No, NO, NO!!!
Dr.1
to your own hand.
No, NO, NO!!!
Dr.1
Good advice for most guys nowadays.
Like everything nowadays, ever little warning possibility has to be spelled out in excruciating detail.
But really good advice would be:
Don't do anything that scares you.
Don't do anything that you don't understand.
Don't do anything that you know can hurt you.
A number of the guys at my favorite field hand start their engines. I fly there because it's the only field in the area where there are that many good flyers and experienced flyers. It's comfortable to fly with good guys. It's my hobby and I like the comfortable feeling. There are fewer guys there that scare me than are at the other fields. Most use starters but can and will hand start when they feel it's called for or saves walking back for the starter.
None of them will hand start an engine mounting a thin, composite prop.
Not a one of them flip APC's for example.
A couple of them have gloves they use.
Every one of them has a list of engines they will hand start and a list they would never hand start. The list isn't by generic type or size. It's a list where each item on the list is down to THE engine itself. Like, "the ST60 I bought in 1983."
Every one of them is experienced enough to know how to do what they want to do and how to do it safely.
Nowadays, there aren't too many left like them. Best advice nowadays is that if you're not sure of anything, don't do anything.
OK, listed enough don'ts for todays lamers?
#10
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: CGRetired
Hi Rock.
You know, you are absolutely right. I guess it just became a habit I learned from someone and just do it automatically. I watch the air-bubble move through the fuel line until it reaches the carb and the fuel flows freely without air bubbles in it. I use S&W 15% nitro 20% lube mix, the fuel is red, well, actually a sort of pink, but it is very visible as it moves to the carb from a full tank. This usually is what is expected on the first flight of the day from fueling up an empty tank. I guess it comes from 'priming' a cold engine, I guess..
Thanks for the input. I ought to just follow suit and do it right..
DS.
Hi Rock.
You know, you are absolutely right. I guess it just became a habit I learned from someone and just do it automatically. I watch the air-bubble move through the fuel line until it reaches the carb and the fuel flows freely without air bubbles in it. I use S&W 15% nitro 20% lube mix, the fuel is red, well, actually a sort of pink, but it is very visible as it moves to the carb from a full tank. This usually is what is expected on the first flight of the day from fueling up an empty tank. I guess it comes from 'priming' a cold engine, I guess..
Thanks for the input. I ought to just follow suit and do it right..
DS.
CG,
I hope you know that really wasn't directly addressed to you. I've followed your advice for awhile now and knew what'd happened. I sorta hate the written word. It ain't the best communications method at all. I was really posting to try and help some of the newbies. Wish you flew around here, actually. You'd like the bunch who usually show up on Tuesdays and Fridays.
#11
ORIGINAL: da Rock
Lot more elegant ways than whipping it like a naughty puppy.
Check out the Tower webpage and look up Flight Line Equipment. Their catalog is an excellent text book for learning the art of modeling.
Glow plug engines need 3 things to start.
Fuel, "glow" for the glowplug, and something to flip the prop.
Obviously it's not quite that simple. For example, "something to turn the prop" can range from the standard 12V portable starter to a "chicken stick" to your own hand.
Lot more elegant ways than whipping it like a naughty puppy.

Check out the Tower webpage and look up Flight Line Equipment. Their catalog is an excellent text book for learning the art of modeling.
Glow plug engines need 3 things to start.
Fuel, "glow" for the glowplug, and something to flip the prop.
Obviously it's not quite that simple. For example, "something to turn the prop" can range from the standard 12V portable starter to a "chicken stick" to your own hand.
#4 patience
#12

My Feedback: (1)
Rock.. not a problem. Absolutely no offense taken (nor any intended, either on from either end).
I love this hobby, enjoy flying with almost everybody.. yeah, there are a few exceptions, but very few, because when they are there, I simply avoid them. But, all advice is good advice, mostly that is..
and there have been some real good exchanges here on RCU, a lot of good information passes back and forth.
We all learn things, develop habits, that are at times good, and at times bad. We try to learn from our bad ones... I have the scar on my right index finger.. the entire length, where I had several stiches last year as a result of being slightly thick headed and ignored the simple warning signs with electric powered models.. opened that finger right up!!! So, I learned the hard way with that one, had another close call when I reached over the top of a running engine to disconnect the glow driver... my jacket sleeve was loose fitting, hanging down, before I knew it, I had three 3 inch long cuts in my jacket sleeve which could easily have been my arm.
Nope... continue to post good stuff.. we love it!!
Dick.
I love this hobby, enjoy flying with almost everybody.. yeah, there are a few exceptions, but very few, because when they are there, I simply avoid them. But, all advice is good advice, mostly that is..
and there have been some real good exchanges here on RCU, a lot of good information passes back and forth.We all learn things, develop habits, that are at times good, and at times bad. We try to learn from our bad ones... I have the scar on my right index finger.. the entire length, where I had several stiches last year as a result of being slightly thick headed and ignored the simple warning signs with electric powered models.. opened that finger right up!!! So, I learned the hard way with that one, had another close call when I reached over the top of a running engine to disconnect the glow driver... my jacket sleeve was loose fitting, hanging down, before I knew it, I had three 3 inch long cuts in my jacket sleeve which could easily have been my arm.
Nope... continue to post good stuff.. we love it!!
Dick.
#13
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From: Hobart, AUSTRALIA
well for obvious reasons u dont use your hand!!! i found out (and it wasnt even a nitro)
(i had a "mishap" before with a peed 480 motor and a 9 inch prop - was checking something on the plane and holding the tx and plane at the same time, one of them slipt, throttle to full, and to catch both with out any damage i kinda had to face teh prop [&o] with my finger tip = bruse/cut in one - funny thing is i didnt notice it cut me until it leaked blood on my tx; thus ended flying for that day haha)
thanks guys for answering this question! all input is appreciated[8D]
(i had a "mishap" before with a peed 480 motor and a 9 inch prop - was checking something on the plane and holding the tx and plane at the same time, one of them slipt, throttle to full, and to catch both with out any damage i kinda had to face teh prop [&o] with my finger tip = bruse/cut in one - funny thing is i didnt notice it cut me until it leaked blood on my tx; thus ended flying for that day haha)
thanks guys for answering this question! all input is appreciated[8D]
#14
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From: FrederickMD
ORIGINAL: da Rock
If you're going to finger choke the carb, no need to open or close the throttle. You're blocking off all atmospheric pressure with the thumb and that makes the throttle position a moot point. But to add some positive advice.........
If you're going to finger choke the carb, no need to open or close the throttle. You're blocking off all atmospheric pressure with the thumb and that makes the throttle position a moot point. But to add some positive advice.........
If you're using an electric starter, there is no reason to prime at all, unless you want to make sure you have some lubrication in the cylinder before hitting it with the starter.
Brad
#15
on a 2 stroke, It's just as easy to plug the muffler with your finger while turning / flipping, and your fingers are even farther away from the prop.
I wouldn't suggest trying to "flip" much over a .70 4 Stroke... unless you're using a concrete block to anchor the plane and a tree trunk for a chicken stick.
I wouldn't suggest trying to "flip" much over a .70 4 Stroke... unless you're using a concrete block to anchor the plane and a tree trunk for a chicken stick.
#16

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From: Omaha,
NE
I have an O.S. 40 engine that a friend of mine always put his finger over the carb. The engine has such a strong compression that we almost alway wound up with a flooded engine. I learned to run the starter on the engine until it started the first time of the day, then chicken stick it the rest of the time. I don't ever thumb the carb any longer.
#17
ORIGINAL: Insanemoondoggie
I would like to add #4 to your list.
#4 patience
ORIGINAL: da Rock
Lot more elegant ways than whipping it like a naughty puppy.
Check out the Tower webpage and look up Flight Line Equipment. Their catalog is an excellent text book for learning the art of modeling.
Glow plug engines need 3 things to start.
Fuel, "glow" for the glowplug, and something to flip the prop.
Obviously it's not quite that simple. For example, "something to turn the prop" can range from the standard 12V portable starter to a "chicken stick" to your own hand.
Lot more elegant ways than whipping it like a naughty puppy.

Check out the Tower webpage and look up Flight Line Equipment. Their catalog is an excellent text book for learning the art of modeling.
Glow plug engines need 3 things to start.
Fuel, "glow" for the glowplug, and something to flip the prop.
Obviously it's not quite that simple. For example, "something to turn the prop" can range from the standard 12V portable starter to a "chicken stick" to your own hand.
#4 patience
Right now I'm having the devil of a time with a TT .40 that I had running a month ago and today it's spitting unburnt fuel through the exhaust. I'm thinking it's rich. But that's a question for another post.
1. Fuel
2. Fire
3. Flipper (that is not your hand)
4. Patience
Go for it, keeping puppies and other damageable goods AWAY from the prop.
#18
Senior Member
well, you put fuel in the tank, take the tube off of the muffler and blow through it until you can see the fuel go along the other line into the engine, then put the glow ignitor on, flip the prop over with fast, swift flicks of your wrist and it should start, then take the plug ignitor off (be carefull with that spinning propellor!) and your about ready to go
isnt there anyone at your local club who can help you and maybe demonstrate?
isnt there anyone at your local club who can help you and maybe demonstrate?





